2015 Rickter Edge FR Build
- Thread starter IS0LD0UT
- Start date
First task was pump alignment.
The inserts were all straight and square to each other. The pump bolted in fine. When I added the OEM shoe the alignment was off left to right and front to back. I was off by about 3/16.
I removed all the paint from the shoe area and it was closer. I continued to grind down the fiberglass and plastic shoe till they aligned properly.
I also had to add 3 washers to the top and 2 to the bottom to get proper compression against the seal. Without any shims the shoe would just slide out.
After all the alignment issues with the shoe I thought for sure the midshaft was going to be off. But to my suprise it was perfectly centered left to right and the cold-fusion tool helped by quickly identifying the shims I needed on the back of the pump.
The inserts were all straight and square to each other. The pump bolted in fine. When I added the OEM shoe the alignment was off left to right and front to back. I was off by about 3/16.
I removed all the paint from the shoe area and it was closer. I continued to grind down the fiberglass and plastic shoe till they aligned properly.
I also had to add 3 washers to the top and 2 to the bottom to get proper compression against the seal. Without any shims the shoe would just slide out.
After all the alignment issues with the shoe I thought for sure the midshaft was going to be off. But to my suprise it was perfectly centered left to right and the cold-fusion tool helped by quickly identifying the shims I needed on the back of the pump.
Last edited:
When I slid the midshaft into place I quickly realized something was off. The shaft bottomed out on the midshaft.
I think I have about 1/4 inch left to the hull. Not what I expected.
I have a skat 144 mag with a jetmaniac modified couch shaft. I assume that it is stock length since I used the pump in my xft and chan with out issues or spline engagement issues.
TC thinks that they were made a bit tighter for some more spline engagement, but it sure looks like my shaft is sticking out a lot father than usual.
I measured 2.5 inches or so
Edit:
Pushed the midshaft in from 20mm to 15.5mm and that seemed to do the trick. We shall see.
I think I have about 1/4 inch left to the hull. Not what I expected.
I have a skat 144 mag with a jetmaniac modified couch shaft. I assume that it is stock length since I used the pump in my xft and chan with out issues or spline engagement issues.
TC thinks that they were made a bit tighter for some more spline engagement, but it sure looks like my shaft is sticking out a lot father than usual.
I measured 2.5 inches or so
Edit:
Pushed the midshaft in from 20mm to 15.5mm and that seemed to do the trick. We shall see.
Last edited:
- Location
- Houston, TX
Purdy. Let's see the rest of it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Location
- Annapolis, MD
I built my edge back in March. Not a single issue. Everything lined up like oem and went right together. However the hull is amazing it truly can do it all.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Location
- Annapolis, MD
Yeah sorry to hear. That's rare in the rickter world. But you'll def love the hull. I chase large boats and ride surf so I only run a 735, 144 mag, limited setup. I will upgrade to a larger motor one day simply so the ski can do it all fw flip to run bouys to kill surf. Right now the only thing it can't do is fw flip which is my last care when dude in his 70ft carver trims it up for us.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Puttting in the bolts for the motor mounts. One side I was able to get the bolts up from the bottom which probably will make replacing a motor mount easy. The other side I could only get the nuts under the plate/ bracket.
Should I remove the plate and put the bolts in from the bottom?
Had read before that I should locktite the bolts for the plate however these are already siliconed in by rrp maybe not a needed step anymore?
Should I remove the plate and put the bolts in from the bottom?
Had read before that I should locktite the bolts for the plate however these are already siliconed in by rrp maybe not a needed step anymore?
- Location
- Annapolis, MD
I could get to all of mine by hand. But I removed the rails on both sides to locktite them counter sunk bolts back in just incase they vibrate loose.
- Location
- Annapolis, MD
Yeah they do in these hulls the older ones did not at all and my 2012 fs2 they vibrated loose and a rail popped out totally.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah just tried to remove the plate. They are thread locked for sure.
Do you have pictures of how you mounted your ebox?
TC said to use 3 bolts to the back of the ebox from the firewall. With the crazy padding on the front foothold it appears it will need to mount low?
- Location
- Annapolis, MD
I used a cold fusion bracket and 3 bolts through the fire wall there. You can also epoxy the cf bracket in or the oem brackets I seen done. I was in a rush to make wavedaze so I took the fast route. I'll get
- Location
- Annapolis, MD
The rail bolts are in there with loctite. I would check to make sure they are tight but wouldn't bother pulling them out. I did manage to get the motor mount bolts in from the bottom without pulling the rail off, little tricky but not bad once you figure it out.
Yeah tried again with the bolts. Got every one but the front and back most on the one side. Too much fiberglass to get the bolt under on those.
Thought about pulling the plate but thought it would be just as big of a pain if a bolt broke or needed replacement. A nut on the bottom on the ends is not so bad it would be harder in the middle 2.
Thought about pulling the plate but thought it would be just as big of a pain if a bolt broke or needed replacement. A nut on the bottom on the ends is not so bad it would be harder in the middle 2.
- Location
- Clermont, Florida
Subscribed , I have an Edge on the way myself.
- Location
- Boynton Beach
Its a bit hard, but with set of needle pliers to help the nut under the plates it did the job for me. once the bolts on top catch a little thread you are all good to adjust the motor mounts.