- Location
- Cleveland, Ohio
Exactly.
Freestyle 2016 WDK RIP 927 build
- Thread starter Wiseguy92
- Start date
- Location
- Saginaw MI
Anyone with a Thrust EZ trim will be interested in this. I have one on the new RIP and it's smooth as silk. Prob is its about 10degrees short in max travel.
The wheel makes the pull sweet but you loose overall length of pull from the radius of the wheel. I set out to eliminate the wheel and get the max travel.
This mod it not a piece of cake but it is doable in a hour or two if you have acces to a lathe.
You need to drill a .100-.125" hole in the shank of a 6mm bolt just under the head. I suggest carbide as drilling stainless bolts is not fun. If your gonna buy a bit get the .100ish size, not critical. Then you need to make the cable grip piece. I used .500" aluminum stock. Drill the center .232" for a tight clearance for the 6mm bolt. Then drill a .063" cross hole thru the center about .125"in from the end for the cable. Put the piece back in the lathe and face the end down until you break into the hole. Once you find the edge of the hole only face .020" more material. This is the important part as this is what will grip the cable. It's the same principal as a oring on the top of a cylinder. Then measure .180" from the end and face the piece off. Clean up the edges of the holes of burrs.
Add two stainless washers and your Rdy to assemble. Remove the billet arm piece from the trim ring. Cut the end of your cable off. Wrap the cable with a small piece of black tape to keep it from fraying while cutting. Remove the tape and load the cable thru the hole in the bolt. Thread the assy with the cable into the arm bracket in the tapped hole for the wheel. Make sure the cable is laying in the drilled radius of the alum piece and snug up. You may have to add a washer or two to the back to get the bolt where it's firm and positioned Nicely for the cable to pull smoothly. It may take some shimming or slight grinding to get it right.
Use a little blue loctite on both bolts and bolt the arm back on to the ring. Wrap the end of the cable with black tape and tuck it back thru the other hole for the wheel shroud. You just picked up around 10 more degrees of trim.
I was still just short of max trim after the mod. My Blowsion trim handle is pretty beefy. I decided to machine some material off the back side to get more travel out of my handle.
After both I am now physically maxed out at the pump with the thrust ring. That should be plenty for the new RIP.
Hope this helps anyone with a thrust trim that wants more from it.
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The wheel makes the pull sweet but you loose overall length of pull from the radius of the wheel. I set out to eliminate the wheel and get the max travel.
This mod it not a piece of cake but it is doable in a hour or two if you have acces to a lathe.
You need to drill a .100-.125" hole in the shank of a 6mm bolt just under the head. I suggest carbide as drilling stainless bolts is not fun. If your gonna buy a bit get the .100ish size, not critical. Then you need to make the cable grip piece. I used .500" aluminum stock. Drill the center .232" for a tight clearance for the 6mm bolt. Then drill a .063" cross hole thru the center about .125"in from the end for the cable. Put the piece back in the lathe and face the end down until you break into the hole. Once you find the edge of the hole only face .020" more material. This is the important part as this is what will grip the cable. It's the same principal as a oring on the top of a cylinder. Then measure .180" from the end and face the piece off. Clean up the edges of the holes of burrs.
Add two stainless washers and your Rdy to assemble. Remove the billet arm piece from the trim ring. Cut the end of your cable off. Wrap the cable with a small piece of black tape to keep it from fraying while cutting. Remove the tape and load the cable thru the hole in the bolt. Thread the assy with the cable into the arm bracket in the tapped hole for the wheel. Make sure the cable is laying in the drilled radius of the alum piece and snug up. You may have to add a washer or two to the back to get the bolt where it's firm and positioned Nicely for the cable to pull smoothly. It may take some shimming or slight grinding to get it right.
Use a little blue loctite on both bolts and bolt the arm back on to the ring. Wrap the end of the cable with black tape and tuck it back thru the other hole for the wheel shroud. You just picked up around 10 more degrees of trim.
I was still just short of max trim after the mod. My Blowsion trim handle is pretty beefy. I decided to machine some material off the back side to get more travel out of my handle.
After both I am now physically maxed out at the pump with the thrust ring. That should be plenty for the new RIP.
Hope this helps anyone with a thrust trim that wants more from it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Location
- Cleveland, Ohio
Been wondering when someone would do this mod. That wheel is really silly IMO. It eliminates a few degrees of throw. I was going to mess with mine on my previous RIP but the hull is so easy to flip already that its not necessary. Nice work.Anyone with a Thrust EZ trim will be interested in this. I have one on the new RIP and it's smooth as silk. Prob is its about 10degrees short in max travel.
The wheel makes the pull sweet but you loose overall length of pull from the radius of the wheel. I set out to eliminate the wheel and get the max travel.
This mod it not a piece of cake but it is doable in a hour or two if you have acces to a lathe.
You need to drill a .100-.125" hole in the shank of a 6mm bolt just under the head. I suggest carbide as drilling stainless bolts is not fun. If your gonna buy a bit get the .100ish size, not critical. Then you need to make the cable grip piece. I used .500" aluminum stock. Drill the center .232" for a tight clearance for the 6mm bolt. Then drill a .063" cross hole thru the center about .125"in from the end for the cable. Put the piece back in the lathe and face the end down until you break into the hole. Once you find the edge of the hole only face .020" more material. This is the important part as this is what will grip the cable. It's the same principal as a oring on the top of a cylinder. Then measure .180" from the end and face the piece off. Clean up the edges of the holes of burrs.
Add two stainless washers and your Rdy to assemble. Remove the billet arm piece from the trim ring. Cut the end of your cable off. Wrap the cable with a small piece of black tape to keep it from fraying while cutting. Remove the tape and load the cable thru the hole in the bolt. Thread the assy with the cable into the arm bracket in the tapped hole for the wheel. Make sure the cable is laying in the drilled radius of the alum piece and snug up. You may have to add a washer or two to the back to get the bolt where it's firm and positioned Nicely for the cable to pull smoothly. It may take some shimming or slight grinding to get it right.
Use a little blue loctite on both bolts and bolt the arm back on to the ring. Wrap the end of the cable with black tape and tuck it back thru the other hole for the wheel shroud. You just picked up around 10 more degrees of trim.
I was still just short of max trim after the mod. My Blowsion trim handle is pretty beefy. I decided to machine some material off the back side to get more travel out of my handle.
After both I am now physically maxed out at the pump with the thrust ring. That should be plenty for the new RIP.
Hope this helps anyone with a thrust trim that wants more from it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Location
- Saginaw MI
Hahah, Adam and I both speculated we wouldn't need the full pull for the RIP. After landing on my head on my ROK for the last few seasons I decided I want as much as I can get!lol That's good to hear we may not need it all...
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Location
- Cleveland, Ohio
Well, with that much throw you probably will still land on your head! Only difference will be because of 1 1/2 flips!Hahah, Adam and I both speculated we wouldn't need the full pull for the RIP. After landing on my head on my ROK for the last few seasons I decided I want as much as I can get!lol That's good to hear we may not need it all...
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- Location
- Saginaw MI
It's official. The RIP is finished tonight! I Added some pad to the holds to fit my foot a bit better and that was the last thing on my list. Looking forward to flying high in 2016!!
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air blair
you are the reason
- Location
- thumb, mich again
Awesome build wise guy. I'll have to come watch you guys r.i.p. it up this summer.
Air blair cell
Air blair cell
- Location
- Saginaw MI
Thanks Jeff, it was a lot of fun! We have a new private pond to ride this season that should work out perfectly for some quality RIP sessions. I would love to have you come up sometime...
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- Location
- Reno,NV
What crank are u running in this engine ?
- Location
- Saginaw MI
Stock GP 800
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- Location
- Lake Orion, MI
nice build!
- Location
- Saginaw MI
Thanks clouse22
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Location
- Saginaw, Michigan
- Location
- Cleveland, Ohio
There are NO Rip 927 videos ANYWHERE... Jeff swears by that 66e but ive never ever seen one in action.. Please post up some footage!
SpaceCowboy
breaking something
- Location
- Ypsilanti Michigan
This one runs real good.
- Location
- Saginaw, Michigan
I've got you covered. I'll try posting it again when I get off work. I might have to upload it to YouTube first. I can't promise anything on the quality, but it'll give you an idea. Mike is a 2 stroke wizard, so it has some special touches to it. It's pretty impressive.
- Location
- Saginaw, Michigan
Here ya go. First person view of Mike tearing it up and a video of me getting a feel for the ski.
- Location
- Saginaw, Michigan
