2017 Superjet ebox removal

Hey guys, I’ve got a 2017 SJ, having some electrical issues, fuses are all good. No sound or click when the ignition is pressed. Trying to get into the ebox but after taking two nuts off each side, the box is still not budging. Do I just need extra persuasion (brute strength) or am I missing another but/bolt on there? I’ve only had it for a year so I’m pretty new to it all! Any help appreciated! Thanks
 
Location
West MI
Hey guys, I’ve got a 2017 SJ, having some electrical issues, fuses are all good. No sound or click when the ignition is pressed. Trying to get into the ebox but after taking two nuts off each side, the box is still not budging. Do I just need extra persuasion (brute strength) or am I missing another but/bolt on there? I’ve only had it for a year so I’m pretty new to it all! Any help appreciated! Thanks
Photos of each stud where you removed nuts?
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Hey guys, I’ve got a 2017 SJ, having some electrical issues, fuses are all good. No sound or click when the ignition is pressed. Trying to get into the ebox but after taking two nuts off each side, the box is still not budging. Do I just need extra persuasion (brute strength) or am I missing another but/bolt on there? I’ve only had it for a year so I’m pretty new to it all! Any help appreciated! Thanks

The box corrodes to the studs. Remove the dash at the front of the tray. You can then removed the 4 bolts that are holding the 2 brackets in place. Once you have the ebox out with the brackets on it, let it soak with some penetrating oil. Heat may be necessary. Remove the bracket from the ebox by treating it like a bolt and unbolting it from the corrosion. Clean up the ebox corrosion and paint the holes. Reinstall using a liberal amount of anti-seize, grease or etc to keep the ebox from seizing to the bracket again. Teflon tape is also an option.

Be sure not to break the ear off the e-box. You don't have to remove the ebox from the stud if it's not going to happen without breaking.

When I put the dash back on, instead of rivets, I used bolts. I used the colored aluminum counter sunk washers because I like they way they look. DO NOT BUY THIS LINK. These are for style reference only. They are not the right size. I think you need M4 or maybe M5. You can drill it out a bit to use the size you want.

 
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Thanks guys, I’ve taken the dash off and managed to get the ebox out now. I’ll probably also replace the rivets with bolts and anti sink washers too. Bolts on either side of the ebox aren’t budging. I’m letting them sit in some marine crc for a bit then I’ll try and give them another go
 
Hold on! It's probably your stop start switch, have you tried unplugging and jumping the red and brown wire that connects to your stop switch?
 
Location
detroit
sorry to hijack here, but I was troubleshooting and when i pulled the fuseholder out, i noticed it was very moist inside. Thats not good right? Im guessing i need to remove the ebox and dry and reseal it or something?
My problem was bad spark plugs. GF was riding the ski, it was running great. She fell and it died and it never started up again. NEw plugs fixed it. I even cleaned the old ones up and swapped them out and it wouldnt start back up.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Are those the red and brown wires leaving the ebox on the outside? If it starts that way, does that mean the solenoid is fine?

Yes. The starter has 2 lines. High and low. The low amp of the start/stop triggers the solenoid and lets the high amps go to the starter. If you jump the switch at the plug, and it works, then the problem is the start / stop or the connection. Using dielectric grease on the plug helps keep the connections dry.

sorry to hijack here, but I was troubleshooting and when i pulled the fuseholder out, i noticed it was very moist inside. Thats not good right? Im guessing i need to remove the ebox and dry and reseal it or something?

It should be dry inside. There are 2 gaskets. One for when the ebox bolts together and an o-ring on the fuse access cover. Yes, you should find some time to open it up, dry and out and correct the leak.
 
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