3D Printing

Balduccimoto

Balduccimoto

Location
NYC/Long Island
My 3D Printer is capable of extruding polycarbonate. I have a roll of it that I haven't tried yet, but I have printed translucent PETT which I use on my Ducati Hypermotard turn signals. I am considering to make a full polycarbonate electrical box. I'd like to see what people are looking for in an electrical box.

Uses an o-ring: b-cord from mcmaster carr can be cut to size and is readily available for anyone).
I have been using M5 brass inserts with good success on my other projects so I will continue to use them.

The only thing I am missing is a yamaha ebox to grab some general dimensions. I intend to model every part so I can do a virtual assembly to ensure everything fits perfect.

The current projects I have now take some time to print on the printer - i've been playing with settings to reduce print time, but it may be a good idea for me to invest in a hobbyist injection molding press. Here are some photos of what I have created:

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Balduccimoto

Balduccimoto

Location
NYC/Long Island
Turn signal pictured above was printed at a 0.30 mm layer height. The license plate bracket was printed at 0.15 mm layer height. That is why the layers are very visible on the turn signal housing. There is a newer version that is slimmer and more refined. The lenses on the newer version are a bit more translucent after hours of testing. Epoxy coating is used to reduce visibility of layers and help it to become more translucent.
 
Pablo

Pablo

sqeez bth levrs & lean bk
Site Supporter
Location
georgia
Nice work. Looks fantastic. Pump out a ebox. I wanna see that. I've been trying to hand fab a oem knock off with oem back, clear Lexan plates for top. Not so easy with manual tools and 10 thumbs on the ends of my hands.


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MCrider

MCrider

Location
Jackson MI
I start a new job on Monday and they have a small makerbot there i'm excited to play with. I would love to have one at home but it would just be a toy.
 
Balduccimoto

Balduccimoto

Location
NYC/Long Island
woodsrider845 said:
Is the printer a "home" version, or is it industrial. I've heard there is a huge difference in output time. I don't know much about them, that's why I ask. And what is the size envelope your machine can handle?

Cool stuff.
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It is a Lulzbot TAZ 5. No doubt in my mind it is the best one available. I have no experience with the industrial printers - they are very expensive. Print area is 298mm x 275mm x 250mm (11.7in x 10.8in x 9.8in)

3D printers are constantly evolving. Many new filaments have been released in the past few years including Nylon, which is resistant to resins. The TAZ5 I own has a hot end capable of 300C. The newest hot end was released not too long ago to keep current with many new filaments. There are machines like the Form 1+ that uses stereolithography and resin to create parts, but they are expensive and the resin isn't cheap. It was in my best interest to go with the Lulzbot while other companies innovate their designs to be a standard.
 
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woodsrider845

Location
Not getting screwed over. Just because.
CurbYourHo said:
It is a Lulzbot TAZ 5. No doubt in my mind it is the best one available. I have no experience with the industrial printers - they are very expensive. Print area is 298mm x 275mm x 250mm (11.7in x 10.8in x 9.8in)

3D printers are constantly evolving. Many new filaments have been released in the past few years including Nylon, which is resistant to resins. The TAZ5 I own has a hot end capable of 300C. The newest hot end was released not too long ago to keep current with many new filaments. There are machines like the Form 1+ that uses stereolithography and resin to create parts, but they are expensive and the resin isn't cheap. It was in my best interest to go with the Lulzbot while other companies innovate their designs to be a standard.
Click to expand...


Ummm... Thank you, but now I have to do some homework to even understand what you just told me. Good thing YOU know what you're doing. Seems like a pretty legit size. Seems like you can make some very needed stuff. I have tons of questions, so I'm gonna go learn, so I can come back better educated. All of my experience comes from wood work, composites, and metal machining. This is new to me.

Thanks again.
 
augustaf

augustaf

Location
central florida
CurbYourHo said:
It is a Lulzbot TAZ 5. No doubt in my mind it is the best one available. I have no experience with the industrial printers - they are very expensive. Print area is 298mm x 275mm x 250mm (11.7in x 10.8in x 9.8in)

The overall length of a Yam elec box is about 310mm (mounting tabs stick out a bit). I do like your venture into additive manufacturing.
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Balduccimoto

Balduccimoto

Location
NYC/Long Island
What are the dimensions of the top piece without the mounting tabs? Earlier I was thinking of only creating the top piece without the mounting tabs. Looks like I am limited to that either way. Like I said in the original post, I would like to buy a hobbyist injection molder and that would allow me to create parts that are more aesthetically pleasing and at a faster rate. It's something I intend to buy, but i'd like to have a solid product before making the investment. If I could make a short run of something with the 3D printer and the demand is there then it is a no brainer to purchase a injection molder.
 
Balduccimoto

Balduccimoto

Location
NYC/Long Island
woodsrider845 said:
Ummm... Thank you, but now I have to do some homework to even understand what you just told me. Good thing YOU know what you're doing. Seems like a pretty legit size. Seems like you can make some very needed stuff. I have tons of questions, so I'm gonna go learn, so I can come back better educated. All of my experience comes from wood work, composites, and metal machining. This is new to me.

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

No need to do a Google search. Sometimes I get carried away with technical lingo and I soon forget who I may be typing this for.

The material that the 3D printer uses is plastic that has been extruded into a wire (my printer uses 3.00mm filament) and it is wrapped around a spool.

The hot end of the machine is the nozzle that heats the plastic and extrudes it. The new machine has one that is capable of higher temperatures that can extrude materials like nylon or polycarbonate that has a extruding temperature closer to 300C. ABS extrudes at 230C. There are other printers that use stereolithography that there is a tank of liquid resin and a platform is slowly lowered into the tank. As the platform is lowered, a UV light cures the resin. This allows for much finer detail.
 
mgcordato

mgcordato

Location
Pomona, CA
Nice post great idea (great minds must think alike!). I am working on a similar project. I will be using a 3d scanner to get the general e box profile and then modifying with an o ring seal amongst some other features before printing on fortus out of a polycarbonate of some sort or a nylon filled material.


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Balduccimoto

Balduccimoto

Location
NYC/Long Island
mgcordato said:
Nice post great idea (great minds must think alike!). I am working on a similar project. I will be using a 3d scanner to get the general e box profile and then modifying with an o ring seal amongst some other features before printing on fortus out of a polycarbonate of some sort or a nylon filled material.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

That is funny that you are thinking the same. I don't think the 3d scanner will be much help. I have tried auto desks scanner app and even with taking depth perception out of the photos - the scans are less than desirable. I haven't tried any true 3d scanners, but my research didn't come up with anything impressive that is priced reasonably. I think it's easier to model it in CAD. There isn't any complicated curves to replicate.
 
augustaf

augustaf

Location
central florida
CurbYourHo said:
What are the dimensions of the top piece without the mounting tabs? Earlier I was thinking of only creating the top piece without the mounting tabs. Looks like I am limited to that either way. Like I said in the original post, I would like to buy a hobbyist injection molder and that would allow me to create parts that are more aesthetically pleasing and at a faster rate. It's something I intend to buy, but i'd like to have a solid product before making the investment. If I could make a short run of something with the 3D printer and the demand is there then it is a no brainer to purchase a injection molder.
Click to expand...
112.5 x 260 mm
 
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woodsrider845

Location
Not getting screwed over. Just because.
CurbYourHo said:
No need to do a Google search. Sometimes I get carried away with technical lingo and I soon forget who I may be typing this for.

The material that the 3D printer uses is plastic that has been extruded into a wire (my printer uses 3.00mm filament) and it is wrapped around a spool.

The hot end of the machine is the nozzle that heats the plastic and extrudes it. The new machine has one that is capable of higher temperatures that can extrude materials like nylon or polycarbonate that has a extruding temperature closer to 300C. ABS extrudes at 230C. There are other printers that use stereolithography that there is a tank of liquid resin and a platform is slowly lowered into the tank. As the platform is lowered, a UV light cures the resin. This allows for much finer detail.
Click to expand...


Thanks. Great explanation! Until I read this, it kind of seemed like "magic". Seems like it's a mig welder building something layer by layer?

I really have to see one of these work!

There is an injection molding company right around the corner from me. I'll have to see if they'll let me wander around a little bit, and then find a 3d printing company so I can fully understand the difference.

Again, thanks for your time, and please keep making parts and updating this thread.


Oh, Nice bike!
 
Balduccimoto

Balduccimoto

Location
NYC/Long Island
Good news. The original electrical box dimensions fit on the build plate. Would everyone like the original width and length of that box? I think that allows much more versatility for different owners.

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