D-Roc
I forgot!
- Location
- Dirty River Rider
good for you. go patent your oil changing tube or whatever that was. Its a way better idea anyways.
eel
Our home is girt by sea
Late model mercruisers have an optional oil drain system where there is a hose from the sump to a drain plug on the transom. That would be the go.
A valve on the crankcase ventilation system that shuts when inverted or engine off would be worth a try. (Just do it better than seadoo)
You would need a quick drain on then plenum/intake manifold so you dont get the famous 4tec rear conrod pretzel.
Here is a quick wet start procedure for a 4tec from memory.
Plugs out, suck out as much water as possible from the cyls with oil sucker.
Unbolt intake plenum and suck out water with oil sucker. re-fasten.
Change oil. (when you suck the old oil out, go gown dipstick first, then remove rocker cover and put the sucker tube down past the timing chain to pull as much oil/water out of the pto room)
new plugs and start the bastard.
Block water hose to the oil cooler with hose pincher and run the ski, preferably in the water until the oil gets stinking hot. You can use BUDS system to monitor engine temp, get it just above 100 c. I also partially block the cooling hose to the heat exchanger to quicken things up a bit. This is to boil water out of the oil. You can tell when its hot enough without buds as it gets very steamy and spluttery out of the dipstick tube and oil fill cap.
Rmove hose pinchers.
Change oil and filter again.
Take ski for a decent ride to dry everything out.
Check oil for signs of water. If so, another oil change. Keep doing this until no water. (the boil out and pto room evacuation helps in this regard)
A bit of a b1tch on the beach, hey.
Give me a 2stroke for surf any day!
A valve on the crankcase ventilation system that shuts when inverted or engine off would be worth a try. (Just do it better than seadoo)
You would need a quick drain on then plenum/intake manifold so you dont get the famous 4tec rear conrod pretzel.
Here is a quick wet start procedure for a 4tec from memory.
Plugs out, suck out as much water as possible from the cyls with oil sucker.
Unbolt intake plenum and suck out water with oil sucker. re-fasten.
Change oil. (when you suck the old oil out, go gown dipstick first, then remove rocker cover and put the sucker tube down past the timing chain to pull as much oil/water out of the pto room)
new plugs and start the bastard.
Block water hose to the oil cooler with hose pincher and run the ski, preferably in the water until the oil gets stinking hot. You can use BUDS system to monitor engine temp, get it just above 100 c. I also partially block the cooling hose to the heat exchanger to quicken things up a bit. This is to boil water out of the oil. You can tell when its hot enough without buds as it gets very steamy and spluttery out of the dipstick tube and oil fill cap.
Rmove hose pinchers.
Change oil and filter again.
Take ski for a decent ride to dry everything out.
Check oil for signs of water. If so, another oil change. Keep doing this until no water. (the boil out and pto room evacuation helps in this regard)
A bit of a b1tch on the beach, hey.
Give me a 2stroke for surf any day!
The main reason the 4 stroke become so popular in MX was because of an old rule that 4 strokes would compete against 2 strokes with double the cc. This was because 4 strokes were up to par. Then 4 stroke engines were improved greatly so yamaha the followed by other brands started coming out with 4 stroke mx models to compete against 2 strokes with double the cc's. I think this was a horrible decision. The cost of racing went up drasticly, and it competly killed the 125 cc 2 stroke in racing. This was because the 250 f stroke had more power, more linear power, however this was only because it had double the cc's.
When a 2 stroke engine blows, its simple and easy to rebuild. when a 4 stroke goes its not simple or cheap. There is alot more moving parts
All this to help out the enviornment, but only of the main problems with this is that, 4 strokes will need alot more oil chages. Most people will not dispose of this oil properly in result actually being worse for the enviornment
I hope stand ups do not go 4 stroke, actually it wont matter to me for a long time if ever. This is because I'm not competing, so I will continue to use 701 cc 2 stroke
When a 2 stroke engine blows, its simple and easy to rebuild. when a 4 stroke goes its not simple or cheap. There is alot more moving parts
All this to help out the enviornment, but only of the main problems with this is that, 4 strokes will need alot more oil chages. Most people will not dispose of this oil properly in result actually being worse for the enviornment
I hope stand ups do not go 4 stroke, actually it wont matter to me for a long time if ever. This is because I'm not competing, so I will continue to use 701 cc 2 stroke
Mouthfulloflake
ISJWTA member #2
- Location
- NW Arkansas
I have filled both my truck, and my wifes trucks engines with water.
several oil changes required, and both are still going.
thats my only 4 stroke water information.
several oil changes required, and both are still going.
thats my only 4 stroke water information.
Moondance
Just plain me....
- Location
- Ridin' the Crazy Train
You haven't had the horror of seeing him drive:drive:
my 1989 Mastercraft has a nice oil drain hose off the bottom of the 351 block.
I take it to the lake, warm it up, pull up on the ramp and feed the drain hose out the bottom drain hole.
Use a 5 quart oil jug as a drain pan and I change my oil with no one noticing!
Use a gallon ziplock over the oiler filter to get it out of the hull with no drips.
I better not be turning it over!
Standups = 2 strokes
Buy them now before EPA bans them!
I take it to the lake, warm it up, pull up on the ramp and feed the drain hose out the bottom drain hole.
Use a 5 quart oil jug as a drain pan and I change my oil with no one noticing!
Use a gallon ziplock over the oiler filter to get it out of the hull with no drips.
I better not be turning it over!
Standups = 2 strokes
Buy them now before EPA bans them!
Dirtybird
Ex*ta*ski
- Location
- St. Clair, MI
How about a diesel. Those make HUGE torque down low :sneaky: :dunno:
YouTube - Diesel Boat Engine
YouTube - Diesel Boat Engine
dbrutherford
Parts Whore
- Location
- Fairmont, WV
Will do! I am "imatition engineer" I mean Industrial Engineer. I took all my Mechanical Engineering classes in summer school because they were easier. I will need a real engineer to help bail me out....
Nah all you really need is a fitting, a hose, and a pump. Angle the ski up and suck out the oil. You could even find some kind of filter to take out the salt water/salt or heat it and boil off the water.
Before I do all that... I will build my own two stroke. I have been thinking about the old Nicholas tridents. What if you took 4 CR or KX500 cylinders and placed them on a custom crankcase and crankshaft? 2000 cc of BRAAAAP!! You could make them so that you had the intakes all facing the middle of the V engine with a custom manifold and two, maybe three, or even four crabs. Then for exhaust just have dual exhaust manifold to handle the exhausts. I mena with 2.0L of brap you wouldn't need some high tech engine, just pure displacement! Ii will try and find a pic of the trident engine I have saved.
not sure what the crabs would be doing :dunno:
but it sure sounds sick!!!!!!!:burnout:
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
set the throttle plate to 2300 rpm and let her rip
- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
With double the CC's or double the weight.
D-Roc
I forgot!
- Location
- Dirty River Rider
i see the yzf250 is lighter this year than the yz250. i don't know why anyone would want to switch to a 4 stroke, 2 strokes have twice the power stroke that the 4 will have to make up, reliability is a joke because if you sump it you can bend the crank and valves, to make the power they have to be pushed to high tolerances or forced induction. then there is the weight, motocross bikes aren't a great comparison imo because they have transmissions which can be geared to the power curve, jetskis are direct drive. the closest is the 4 stroke snowmobile motors i guess and they are inline 4 cylinders that make good power but it takes 1000cc compared to say a 828 5 mil. then the whole upside down thing.......the hydrospace is 400lbs+ not much of a freestyle/surf boat.
Kaveman
Born in USA(not Kenya)
- Location
- texas but soon tejas
Not sure on the HSR, but on the Polaris MSX 110/150 with the same Weber turbo 4 stroke engine, the procedure to change oil is as follows...
1. Run engine on hose to get up to operating temperature
2. Shut off engine
3. Remove dipstick and with sucker tool (such as Mighty vac) suck out as much oil as possible.
4. Disconnect the pigtails from the ignition coils and fuel injectors.
5. Remove the return hose from the oil reservoir (the line returning oil from the engine to the reservoir) and place into a gallon jug.
6. Install lanyard and crank engine for 20-30 seconds.
7. Repeat process until no oil is dispensed from return line into jug.
8. Remove and replace engine oil filter.
9. Reconnect return line to oil reservoir.
10. Add 3 liters of oil to reservoir.
11. Reconnect wiring harness to ignition coils and fuel injectors.
12. Install dipstick and start engine letting run 30 seconds.
13. After shutting off engine, remove dipstick and clean with clean cloth.
14. Screw dipstick ALL the way in and remove to check oil level.
15. Add oil up to the low mark on the dipstick. (use care not to fill above the low mark on the dipstick as the oil will expand as the engine warms up bringing it up to the full mark. If oil is overfilled it can circulate through the turbo and back through the intake manifold damaging the boost/intake air temperature sensor and the manifold pressure sensor.)
If oil is overfilled and does travel through the intake system, the hose from the turbo to intercooler, intercooler, hose from intercooler to throttle body, throttle body and intake manifold must be removed and cleaned free of oil. Occassionally (sp) the two sensors in the intake tract will be damaged and have to be replaced.
In a ski (HSR) the removal of the intercooler appears to be a relatively simple procedure however on the Polaris the original prodedure required removing the engine and about 12 hours. The procedure was later amended to 4.5 hours by removing all of the upper steering components and working through the front storage bucket hole and taking it out that way.
That's it nothing to it!
A completely submerged Yamaha 4 stroke engine that is hydrolocked usually takes 4+ oil changes to rid of all noticeable traces of water. On the Yamaha, only somewhere between 2/3 and 3/4 of the oil can be removed and must all be sucked out the fill/dipstick hole.
1. Run engine on hose to get up to operating temperature
2. Shut off engine
3. Remove dipstick and with sucker tool (such as Mighty vac) suck out as much oil as possible.
4. Disconnect the pigtails from the ignition coils and fuel injectors.
5. Remove the return hose from the oil reservoir (the line returning oil from the engine to the reservoir) and place into a gallon jug.
6. Install lanyard and crank engine for 20-30 seconds.
7. Repeat process until no oil is dispensed from return line into jug.
8. Remove and replace engine oil filter.
9. Reconnect return line to oil reservoir.
10. Add 3 liters of oil to reservoir.
11. Reconnect wiring harness to ignition coils and fuel injectors.
12. Install dipstick and start engine letting run 30 seconds.
13. After shutting off engine, remove dipstick and clean with clean cloth.
14. Screw dipstick ALL the way in and remove to check oil level.
15. Add oil up to the low mark on the dipstick. (use care not to fill above the low mark on the dipstick as the oil will expand as the engine warms up bringing it up to the full mark. If oil is overfilled it can circulate through the turbo and back through the intake manifold damaging the boost/intake air temperature sensor and the manifold pressure sensor.)
If oil is overfilled and does travel through the intake system, the hose from the turbo to intercooler, intercooler, hose from intercooler to throttle body, throttle body and intake manifold must be removed and cleaned free of oil. Occassionally (sp) the two sensors in the intake tract will be damaged and have to be replaced.
In a ski (HSR) the removal of the intercooler appears to be a relatively simple procedure however on the Polaris the original prodedure required removing the engine and about 12 hours. The procedure was later amended to 4.5 hours by removing all of the upper steering components and working through the front storage bucket hole and taking it out that way.
That's it nothing to it!
A completely submerged Yamaha 4 stroke engine that is hydrolocked usually takes 4+ oil changes to rid of all noticeable traces of water. On the Yamaha, only somewhere between 2/3 and 3/4 of the oil can be removed and must all be sucked out the fill/dipstick hole.
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
eel
Our home is girt by sea
Just fill them up with silicone. That'll keep the pesky water out.
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
Mouthfulloflake
ISJWTA member #2
- Location
- NW Arkansas
Wifes truck ws busted head gasket, it overheated, I poured more water in drove it until it over heated again, reapeated until I got home.
got in the driveway, pulled dipstick, looked like chocolate milk, tried to crank, and hydro sized it.
waited a week, pulled plugs, drained oil, ran until hot, and changed oil ( several times, then replaced head gaskets, no harm done)
My truck ( toyota 22re) timing chain knocked hole thru timing cover, dumped coolant directly into oil pan.
I didnt know, I had been driving it like that, it didnt drive any different.
checked the oil one day, looked like chocolate milk.
ordered timing cover and kit. swapped it out, few oil changes, still on the road, driven every day.
it had NOTHING to do with the way I drive Moon, at least I can keep my trailer in the lane at 70+
got in the driveway, pulled dipstick, looked like chocolate milk, tried to crank, and hydro sized it.
waited a week, pulled plugs, drained oil, ran until hot, and changed oil ( several times, then replaced head gaskets, no harm done)
My truck ( toyota 22re) timing chain knocked hole thru timing cover, dumped coolant directly into oil pan.
I didnt know, I had been driving it like that, it didnt drive any different.
checked the oil one day, looked like chocolate milk.
ordered timing cover and kit. swapped it out, few oil changes, still on the road, driven every day.
it had NOTHING to do with the way I drive Moon, at least I can keep my trailer in the lane at 70+
Y
yamaslut
Guest
SO I guess that's a kinda no????