djyox
Old school -not by choice
- Location
- Twincities, MN
My 550 wont hit top end for the life of it......:bs2:
Ok, I did the swap over from a PP to reed.
I DID:
Keep old electric box
Keep old fuel lines
I DID NOT:
Keep the stator from the PP
Keep the 5.5 gastank, and supertrapp from the PP
THE NEW MOTOR:
Is stock from what I can tell
Is also very clean and un abused
Has the stock kehien carb on it (38 I think)
Has the stock head
Had the stock pipe untill I put on the westcoast half pipe on it
I am unsure of the stock jetting to check for it, and am not at home to remove the plate and check the jets myself, so if anyone knows the NS and Hi/Lo jets please tell me.
I will go through what I have checked, just to keep it all in one post:
I CHECKED:
-Fuel lines - Checked these by running a direct line from the tank to the carb and bypassed all other fuel lines
-Check valve on tank - Checked this by removing from the fuel tank, putting mouth on it sucking and blowing to make sure it would let air in, but not out.
-Pulse line - Removed it and blew though it with my finger on one end, then sucked on it, to see if I could get it to leak, nothing. I did however still replace it because I had an extra bit of hose to replace it with.
-Spark plugs - Checked this by going from a good set of NGK R's that read great, the perfect tan color your looking for, and even dropped these and tried some non R plugs.
-Spark while running - Took one of those spark testers that hook up inline with a little window with a light on if you have good spark while running. Great spark!
-Fuel tank - Removed it and put a new one in, just incase, both holding air
-Gasket under fuel cap - put a new one in there.
-Gas - Removed old, added new
-Carb - Removed the plate, eyed up for anything I could see, these carbs are really basic and not required to be done at NASA. The carb was sooo clean you could honestly eat off it, checked the jets, checked the NS, checked the screen filter. Also checked to make sure that the air/fuel screws were about right. At about 1 turn out that sounds right to me, but even if not, its most likely so close it should still run better than it does.
-Fuel pump on carb - opened it up, looking for tears or leaks or anything. Everything in here was soo clean it looked as if it was a fesh rebuild.
-Reeds - They are seated just right, all the way around, no cracks or chips. They are MINT, and look just like new!
-Waterbox - Pulled the stocker out, felt like it was moving air though fine, but just incase I put another in there, and that one too was moving air fine. also looked and shook them to see if anything was loose inside.
-All exhaust hoses - Make sure they didn't have kinks or blocking of any type. They all are only a few inches long, so nothing really to mess up there, but I would have felt like an *** if that was it, and I didn't check it.
-Comp. test - Both tested ON THE LINE at 155psi per the tester we used. It may not really be 155, but none the less they are testing the same on the same tester!
I DID NOT CHECK:
-Timing - I figured if timing was so off, why the hell would it idle so well, and have good lowend??
-Case seal - Other than by looking at it (and it does look like its good and sealing still) I have not presure tested the case
-Crank seals - I did look at the rear main, and it looks to be intacked and in great cond.
-Pulse coil - Again like the timing, why am I getting good spark readings? I have not OHM metered it yet, but ohm meter readings can be off if they arn't hot, correct?
-exciter coil - Again like the pulse and timing, I am getting good spark and its running fine on lowend. From my understanding with an exciter coil, when these go out, they go out out. Unline the pulser coil where this is a known problem that can happen.
-Wire hook up - I have not color matched the wires, I just took the clip that was with the reed motor/stator, and hooked it up to the clip that is on the PP electrical box.
I don't think I am missing anything here...
I WANT TO RECHECK/CHECK:
-Carb - another once over again, to make sure that its all hoked up correctly
-fuel lines - hose clap everywhere! I want no way that it could be leaking air in!
-spark - I want to get another spark tester like the one before and do it again, both cylinders for say, 5min each?
-pulser coil - ohm meter it, and if I can get my hands on a coil or even compleat stator setup do a swap. But finding these babys are getting kinda rare, DK sells them for around $30 but is out of stock at the moment.
Ok, I think thats all I gots to say. Anyone having anything to add? Or anything I should check that isn't posted? :bigeyes: Come on 550 Gods, fix my ski, I want to go jump wakes again and I am too poor to get a SJ or a newer kawi 750 or 800.:hail:
Ok, I did the swap over from a PP to reed.
I DID:
Keep old electric box
Keep old fuel lines
I DID NOT:
Keep the stator from the PP
Keep the 5.5 gastank, and supertrapp from the PP
THE NEW MOTOR:
Is stock from what I can tell
Is also very clean and un abused
Has the stock kehien carb on it (38 I think)
Has the stock head
Had the stock pipe untill I put on the westcoast half pipe on it
I am unsure of the stock jetting to check for it, and am not at home to remove the plate and check the jets myself, so if anyone knows the NS and Hi/Lo jets please tell me.
I will go through what I have checked, just to keep it all in one post:
I CHECKED:
-Fuel lines - Checked these by running a direct line from the tank to the carb and bypassed all other fuel lines
-Check valve on tank - Checked this by removing from the fuel tank, putting mouth on it sucking and blowing to make sure it would let air in, but not out.
-Pulse line - Removed it and blew though it with my finger on one end, then sucked on it, to see if I could get it to leak, nothing. I did however still replace it because I had an extra bit of hose to replace it with.
-Spark plugs - Checked this by going from a good set of NGK R's that read great, the perfect tan color your looking for, and even dropped these and tried some non R plugs.
-Spark while running - Took one of those spark testers that hook up inline with a little window with a light on if you have good spark while running. Great spark!
-Fuel tank - Removed it and put a new one in, just incase, both holding air
-Gasket under fuel cap - put a new one in there.
-Gas - Removed old, added new
-Carb - Removed the plate, eyed up for anything I could see, these carbs are really basic and not required to be done at NASA. The carb was sooo clean you could honestly eat off it, checked the jets, checked the NS, checked the screen filter. Also checked to make sure that the air/fuel screws were about right. At about 1 turn out that sounds right to me, but even if not, its most likely so close it should still run better than it does.
-Fuel pump on carb - opened it up, looking for tears or leaks or anything. Everything in here was soo clean it looked as if it was a fesh rebuild.
-Reeds - They are seated just right, all the way around, no cracks or chips. They are MINT, and look just like new!
-Waterbox - Pulled the stocker out, felt like it was moving air though fine, but just incase I put another in there, and that one too was moving air fine. also looked and shook them to see if anything was loose inside.
-All exhaust hoses - Make sure they didn't have kinks or blocking of any type. They all are only a few inches long, so nothing really to mess up there, but I would have felt like an *** if that was it, and I didn't check it.
-Comp. test - Both tested ON THE LINE at 155psi per the tester we used. It may not really be 155, but none the less they are testing the same on the same tester!
I DID NOT CHECK:
-Timing - I figured if timing was so off, why the hell would it idle so well, and have good lowend??
-Case seal - Other than by looking at it (and it does look like its good and sealing still) I have not presure tested the case
-Crank seals - I did look at the rear main, and it looks to be intacked and in great cond.
-Pulse coil - Again like the timing, why am I getting good spark readings? I have not OHM metered it yet, but ohm meter readings can be off if they arn't hot, correct?
-exciter coil - Again like the pulse and timing, I am getting good spark and its running fine on lowend. From my understanding with an exciter coil, when these go out, they go out out. Unline the pulser coil where this is a known problem that can happen.
-Wire hook up - I have not color matched the wires, I just took the clip that was with the reed motor/stator, and hooked it up to the clip that is on the PP electrical box.
I don't think I am missing anything here...
I WANT TO RECHECK/CHECK:
-Carb - another once over again, to make sure that its all hoked up correctly
-fuel lines - hose clap everywhere! I want no way that it could be leaking air in!
-spark - I want to get another spark tester like the one before and do it again, both cylinders for say, 5min each?
-pulser coil - ohm meter it, and if I can get my hands on a coil or even compleat stator setup do a swap. But finding these babys are getting kinda rare, DK sells them for around $30 but is out of stock at the moment.
Ok, I think thats all I gots to say. Anyone having anything to add? Or anything I should check that isn't posted? :bigeyes: Come on 550 Gods, fix my ski, I want to go jump wakes again and I am too poor to get a SJ or a newer kawi 750 or 800.:hail:
Last edited:
