$6 up trim for X2

[Johnny340]

I flipped the trim nozzle segment 180 degrees so the brass actuator ball is on the top and Pulls to add up trim. With it flipped, it lines up perfectly with the top 'return' hole in the hull. I ran a bicycle brake cable through that hole into the engine bay and up the boot to a cheap bike brake lever on the handle bars.
I need to grind the steering nozzle half circle shaped part that is limiting throw still (see other thread) and I may have to grind the plastic actuator tab on the nozzle a little for even more throw.
These pics are just a mock-up so nothing is sealed or ready for the water. Any constructive comments or ideas would be appreciated. I know most people use that 'return' hole in the hull for dual cooling but if this works then I may remove the stock trim cable and use that hole for another cooling line on that side.

 

[madscientist]

that cable will last maby 2 weeks you will need to find 1 with the nylon liner like a dirtbike clutch cable not to mention the cable strength is much greater. the stock trim set up releives some of the cable stress wich can allow for the bicke cable, but it will corode solid in a matter of weeks with any salt riding

 

[Johnny340]

I can use a nylon liner on this cable with rubber seals at the ends. The only problem with a motorcycle cable is they are fixed length with threaded fittings on each end which would not fit through this hole in the hull.
Haven't guys been bending the stock cable because of the forces on it while pushing the trim up?

 

[ksmith83]

hey johnny did you just buy that brake cable at a certain length or did you have to make it custom? what length did you use?

 

[Johnny340]

I used a standard replacement brake inner cable for a mountain bike brake. $2. These cables are purchased separately from the outer cable housing and can be made any length because you simply clamp it at the appropriate length. I sandwiched the end between two nuts on a bolt that threads into the original brass ball fitting. I'm not happy with this setup as the cable does a 90° bend right over these nuts which would probably be too sharp for any kind of longevity. I might make a bracket that will accommodate a straight pull on the cable. I don't know what the strength of these cables is nor the force that the trim will undergo at high throttle settings. Anyone?

What about a push rod (pull, actually) that fits through the return hole in the hull back to the trim nozzle? that way, I could use a stronger motorcycle lever and cable to a bell-crank style actuator in the engine bay that pulls this rod.

I considered a hydraulic lever for more power (Magura HS-33) but it wouldn't fit next to the start/stop switch because my handle bars are cut too short. That sucks because a hydraulic line right to the rear would solve any breakage and/or water proofing problems with a steel cable. The power of the hydraulic force would be nice as well...

Has anyone ever reversed the trim nozzle like this so it requires a PULL to go up? I'm curious if I'll get enough travel and still have enough strength after grinding the actuator area. Anyone have a spare available to experiment with?

 

[Twinturbostang]

Can you take a pic of how far up it pulls? and have you went out and rode it yet?

 

[Johnny340]

I have not ridden it yet. This is just a mock up. It pulls far but the nozzle physically binds before it gets high enough. This is from two things: the half circle extension near the stock bilge pipe and the actuator arm itself (the plastic extension that the ball is mounted to). I want to grind that half circle part away and the next thing to hit will be that actuator/ball area but I don't want to make that too weak. If I had a spare trim nozzle section to experiment with, it would be ideal.