61x topend and stroker cranks

This past season I've been running a 771cc 85mm bore with aftermarket 44sbn's, bpipe, and zeel. Most of the year was 180psi, and a couple gallons at 200psi. I've been extremely pleased with the power output and have it tuned perfectly. No fouled plugs, no hesitation, no chugging. I'll be in possession of a Rad +5mm crank that I'd like to do some experimenting with. I have a good background in 2 stroke port timing, but more related to making sure the cylinder is spaced correctly and squish is set. I've scoured the forums and the rest of the internet to get an idea on what I want to do, and what the possible outcomes will be. I suppose this thread can document what I've learned and add additional findings that I couldn't dig up myself.

Stock 61x port timings are 39.6mm exhaust(178.7 degrees), 55.4mm transfers(118.26 degrees) and blowdown of 30.22 degrees.

measuring my engine using calipers for port heights, will rig up a degree wheel later on before teardown. 39.1mm exhaust(180.4 degrees), 55.1mm transfers(119.6 degrees), and 30.4 degrees of blowdown.

Using this port timing calculator: https://lambretta-images.com/tuningh/port-timing-calculators/
I was able to change the stroke to 73mm, and also adjust the piston height to be 2mm above the deck, considering it is currently 0.5mm below deck. Without changing any ports, just changing to the stroker crank, the port timings are now 182.65 degrees exhaust, 127.12 degrees transfer, and 27.77 degrees blowdown.

My understanding with going to a larger stroke is that it increases dwell time at the top and bottom dead centers. This shows how the transfer duration shot up and also cut down on blowdown. I can massage the port timings to be closer to original by lowering the cylinder by 0.5mm(limit of piston above deck) and raising the exhaust port about 1.5mm. This would give me: 185.76 degrees exhaust, 125.08 degrees transfer, and 30.34 degrees blowdown.

My concern is how important it is to get the blowdown back to original specs, and can a lower blowdown be compensated by having a larger transfer duration? I understand enough blowdown is needed to drop the cylinder pressure so the intake charge can be pushed in. If the blowdown is not quite enough, but the transfer duration is slightly longer, maybe it's no big deal. I know the current port timings work and the engine responds exactly how I want it, and I'd rather not turn it into a laggy topend machine. My thinking is to not modify anything except a set of domes to set proper squish, and see how it performs. Something else to think about is also a gain in port area in both transfers and exhaust when using the stroker crank. I measured the port bottoms of both and they hang roughly 2mm below the piston.

Any criticism or insight would be helpful. Ideally a lamey 5mm cylinder would show up but it would be nice to know if this could get me 80% there without spending another $2500 on a topend.
 
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I remember reading that in my earlier searches. The peak rpm sounds right too. 8000 rpm stock stroke piston speed is about equal to 7500rpm 73mm piston speed. I was planning on reducing the rev limit and take a couple degrees of timing out. Currently set at 8000rpm rev limit and a modified wax curve starting 32 degrees at 2000rpm.
 

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
thats a little higher than I normally go in the positive deck engines in regard to protrusion
The rest would work fine. The transfers are getting up there but it will be ok.
The transfers were quite low before and were probably just a clean up
 
I got the degree wheel out and rechecked my current port timings. Exhaust opens at 89 degrees atdc(180 degree duration), transfers open at 118.5 degrees(121 degrees duration) with blowdown at 30.75 degrees. All more or less in line with what I measured before. I pulled the exhaust manifold and measured the piston/exhaust port overlap at 2.71mm. Full exhaust port area is 16.1 cm2 and with the current piston overlap it sits at 14.9cm2. I'll be gaining about 8% more exhaust port area. Thank you so far for your comments. With the variety of aftermarket cylinders available, I've seen a drop in frankenstein motor threads after about 2010. It seems the early to mid 2000's were a hotbed for experimentation with this kind of stuff.IMG_20211027_183433709.jpgIMG_20211027_182215665.jpg
 
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long beach local

long beach local
Location
Az
Can I ask a silly question How come this Stroker crank doesn’t have a spacer plate under the cylinder? I had an HPE 5mil Ada crank 828cc. ported 61x and I had to install various thickness spacer plates and gaskets to get the squish just right and that motor ran like a raped ape!! Wish I still had it actually sold it to damn cheap to a member on here lol. I didn’t measure anything but squish and compression just followed Matt’s instructions.It probably has something to do with your crank ,rods etc just asking.
 

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
Can I ask a silly question How come this Stroker crank doesn’t have a spacer plate under the cylinder? I had an HPE 5mil Ada crank 828cc. ported 61x and I had to install various thickness spacer plates and gaskets to get the squish just right and that motor ran like a raped ape!! Wish I still had it actually sold it to damn cheap to a member on here lol. I didn’t measure anything but squish and compression just followed Matt’s instructions.It probably has something to do with your crank ,rods etc just asking.
If you put a spider plate under the cylidner it raises the port timing to much. This can soften the power delivery a lot and is. It ideal for a surf / Freeride engine
 
This rad crank has stock 125mm rods. I believe the hpe kit has 133mm rods. Ideally I would like a long rod setup for less stress on the pistons, but working with what I've got for now.
 
Can I ask a silly question How come this Stroker crank doesn’t have a spacer plate under the cylinder? I had an HPE 5mil Ada crank 828cc. ported 61x and I had to install various thickness spacer plates and gaskets to get the squish just right and that motor ran like a raped ape!! Wish I still had it actually sold it to damn cheap to a member on here lol. I didn’t measure anything but squish and compression just followed Matt’s instructions.It probably has something to do with your crank ,rods etc just asking.
Hpe used longer than stock rods then used a spacer plate that was less than the difference in rod length to end up with lower port timing.
 

long beach local

long beach local
Location
Az
Oh ok so the rods must attach farther out the crank pin then? so the 5mm gets you the same increase in displacement? Thanks for the info
 
Engine is stripped down. Turns out the base gasket was never trimmed around the transfer ports. I'm sure that didn't help airflow. The crank fits, but the big end has no clearance. Kept the same clearance to the crank webs, about 1mm. The crank is in good shape, however one of the inner bearings is noisy and can feel notches. After completing dry assembly I'll have it sent out and rebuilt. I'm torn on asking to have 133mm rods put in it. I'd rather not play with a base spacer, but I did the math if I went that route. Without touching the ports and keeping the piston at 2mm above deck, It would lower the exhaust and transfer duration to 181.5 and 126 degrees, compared to 182.6 and 127.1 degrees with 125mm rods. Blowdown would stay the same. So I'd get slightly better port timings and less stress on the piston and sidewalls. By lowering the cylinder 1mm, I could get similar port timings with the 125mm rods. Then again the pistons would be poking out 3mm. Measuring the pistons show the ring about 4.3mm below the top.IMG_20211028_184653955.jpgIMG_20211028_184700169_HDR.jpgIMG_20211029_125727738_HDR.jpgIMG_20211029_173046711_HDR.jpg
 
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I did see the cylinder pictures and agree, something let loose. Overall the crank is decent but I can easily feel something in a couple of the bearings. I'll be sending it to crankworks soon for a full rebuild and install of 133mm rods. He'll have to bore the crank pin holes out to 26mm, currently at 25mm. I see they have their own fancy 133mm rods, but will have to see if I want just stock kawasaki. I did more accurate measuring of the exhaust and transfer port roofs and calculated the durations based on the piston 2.5mm out of the hole. After raising the exhaust 1mm, I'll end up with 180.7 degree exhaust, 121.8 degree transfer, and 29.45 degree blowdown. I can see how the hpe +4 stroker kit worked so well with a stock cylinder. Next will be modeling and machining the correct thickness spacer and matching domes. Pinning the head will probably be necessary. There's a bit of movement and there won't be much clearance. I've got some extra ada domes I can machine out. With the higher corrected compression ratio, I'll be taking a guess on the cc's needed to get in the 180-200 psi range.IMG_20211103_162111176_HDR.jpgIMG_20211031_151732889_HDR.jpgIMG_20211031_125133805_HDR.jpg
 
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Making more progress. Crank is shipped out to Crankworks. Head is pinned. Not much room to do that, but there is two small areas for 1/8" pins. Modeled and 3d printed a template for a base spacer. Machined a plastic pattern and cast in aluminum. Left about 1/8" extra stock that was machined to size. Roughed in a dome that will be tweaked later on when assembled.IMG_20211107_193432185_HDR.jpgIMG_20211105_150405381_HDR.jpgIMG_20211108_190723024.jpgIMG_20211108_193748970.jpgIMG_20211110_120605537_HDR.jpgIMG_20211111_184012457_HDR.jpg
 
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It took about 5 weeks since crankworks got my crank and got the quote/estimate phone call. Guy knows his stuff and we were able to make a few tweaks to my order to get everything perfect. Was originally going with 133mm wsm rods and switched to hotrods brand. He says in the past few years hotrods rods are now made in the usa and have upgraded bigend bearings over wsm. The big end of the rod is much thicker than stock, so I either would need to trench the cases another 1mm or he would cut the rods down. They already offer that as a service and has a safe limit to go to. It gets it within 0.1mm of the original radius so I won't need to thin up my cases anymore. Overall it will be a full drop in and go with all the good parts. He's telling me end of january for delivery.
 
I can send you a spreadsheet that I made for calculating cranking compression numbers that got me pretty close for making domes if you want
 
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