66E Conversion

[te4250]

I plan to convert either my xfs, or highroller amp hull to a 981cc (89.5mm bore) 66e. Started mocking it up in a spare squarenose hull I had. Made some quick and dirty mount adapters to see how it would fit at the stock angle:








It lines right up with the superjet midshaft using the stock rear two mounts.

so far I have also designed a headshell and dome for up to 90mm bore:


and an exhaust manifold to go to a power factor chamber:


Printing a manifold right now to test fit my buddies chamber. I have two 89.5mm pistons but still have to bore the cylinders and send them to be plated. I'm using cr500 pistons, with a special wrist pin bearing, and I will have to make a spacer for the cylinders to make up for the difference in piston height.

My main question right now though is does anyone know why there is so much clearance between the part of the power factor chamber that sticks into the manifold and the manifold itself? The proud diameter on the pipe is 2.6" and the ID on the manifold is 2.935" do they sell larger chambers and bore the manifolds to match?

 

[Quinc]

Have you looked into getting a wdk manifold and chamber? See them pop up on the fb pages and here fairly often.

 

[te4250]

I wanted to just make it because I have heard the wdk stuff is hard to get a hold of and figgured if I made a couple maybe some people would buy them. I also am trying to be lazy and leave the motor slanted, I’m still not convinced the upright kit and upright intake manifold is nessisary. Not sure if the wdk setup would work with the motor still slanted? That’s also kind of why I decided to make it fit the pfp chamber, seems to be something you can get ahold of fairly easily compared to wdk stuff. Does anybody also know if the rrp and other lay down chambers fit a pfp manifold?

 

[Harbor]

The RRP pipe manifold has a sleeve pressed into the manifold To decrease the ID to the inlet diameter of the pipe..

 

[te4250]

Gotcha took a quick look at some pics on blowsion. Simple enough

 

[te4250]

Those fwd mounts might not last too long with that cantilever/overhang.

A 3rd set of Motor Mounts would be ideal. Or a 5th Mount under the Flywheel Cover like a fwd 951 Motor Mount.

At least add some Rubber Pads or Stops to the end of the Mount Adapters.

You must have missed the "quick and dirty to see how it would fit" part lol. But yeah not how I necessarily was gonna run it

 

[cudaben]

this is great, keep us updated as you go.

 

[Jcary85]

I've always been curious how the port timing on these motors compares with some of the 701 based 10mm stroker motors out there. If you can run a 89mm piston in the stock cylinder and the port timing is (or can be adjusted to) within reason for a low end freestyle motor, why are companies making billet cylinders?

 

[Storbeck]

This is cool stuff very interesting!

 

[te4250]

I've always been curious how the port timing on these motors compares with some of the 701 based 10mm stroker motors out there. If you can run a 89mm piston in the stock cylinder and the port timing is (or can be adjusted to) within reason for a low end freestyle motor, why are companies making billet cylinders?

The exhaust port is fairly angled so the timing is gonna change quite a bit with boring, I’ve been meaning to measure it all up. I will before and after boring and report back.

Is that going to be a two-piece billet Exhaust Manifold? Have you decided what kind of finish or surface roughness you will end up machining the walls of the Manifold Passages?

Yeah two piece. I was gonna shoot for 16uin ra. Okuma baby. Lol nah to be honest I’m probably just gonna see what looks like a good compromise between cycle time and scallop height when I cam it and see how it is.

 

[bkspeedwerks]

The exhaust port is fairly angled so the timing is gonna change quite a bit with boring, I’ve been meaning to measure it all up. I will before and after boring and report back.

Yeah two piece. I was gonna shoot for 16uin ra. Okuma baby. Lol nah to be honest I’m probably just gonna see what looks like a good compromise between cycle time and scallop height when I cam it and see how it is.

Nice work. What cam/ machine are you using? Having worked on/programmed okumas for a long time they are excellent machines.

 

[te4250]

Nice work. What cam/ machine are you using? Having worked on/programmed okumas for a long time they are excellent machines.

Cadet V4020 is the machine I'll probably make the first one on but if I end up making more I'll probably transition to our kitamura with apc. Pretty much use fusion for everything these days, can beat the price and the cam is honestly quite a bit better than some more expensive options I've used.

 

[te4250]

Got 2/3 the way through printing the manifold before it came off the build plate, just enough to check fitment though:









Pretty tight as is in the squarenose hull, I can shorten the manifold a bit but its almost at the limit. The amp hull is 1.5" wider and the rickter is 2" wider than the sn so it will fit fine in either of those as is. I assume most aftermarket hulls are wider than the sn anyway.

 

[Quinc]

How did you design the manifold in the 3d printer? I am on the fence about getting a printer and thinking I need to learn the software part of it first...

 

[bored&stroked]

This is way cool.

 

[te4250]

How did you design the manifold in the 3d printer? I am on the fence about getting a printer and thinking I need to learn the software part of it first...

Manifold I designed in fusion 360(free for hobby use, inexpensive for commercial use), then sliced with cura(free altogether). Not sure how familiar you are with cad/cam but if your just getting into it theres a ton of tutorials and instructional videos on youtube for fusion. Even if your not super confident with cad you can dowmload a ton of models on places like grabcad, thingiverse etc especially common things to want to print. Then slicing (3d printing equivalent of cam-ing) with cura is pretty straigtforward and most common printers and their respective basic settings are preloaded in the software, infact if you get a common enough printer its should be as simple as hitting slice and sending the gcode to the printer. I have a super cheap ($160, 4 years ago) printer. I would reccomend trying to get something a bit better cause this thing is just laser cut out of acrylic and I'm constantly trying to keep it level and its not flat in the first place so its always a compromise. I think even $3-400 gets you something more rubust with an 8020 frame etc such as a CR-10 which is a popular high value option to look at. Feel free to pm me if you have more questions too

 

[UKUnicorn]

Heckin subbed this looks rad

 

[te4250]

Have been pretty busy so haven't had a whole bunch of time to work on this but sending the cylinders out today for plating, cammed and started running the exhaust manifold a couple weeks ago but blew the spindle drive on the mill, replaced the transistors that blew but they just blew again so I'm having it repaired at the moment.

Made a sweet A2-6 to 66e adapter plate:


Boring cylinder on said adapter:



Looking bigger, Also had to weld up a little mishap with the boring bar lol:


Smoothed out the exhaust port, Sharpened the transfers and moved the boost port back up:

 

[te4250]

Here's the first half of the manifold, got one side barely roughed out then the drive blew:


Atleast I put a 155 pump shoe in the amp hull, current plan is to put this motor in that hull.

 

[cudaben]

looking good. I am excited to see this build come along. I hope to be able to ride my RIP with a 66e /927 in a week or 2. I had hand surgery in June and the healing process sucked... was slow and painful. No riding for me.