701 not getting fuel

[WJLarson14]

Hey guys, its been a while since i've been on here but I recently pulled out my 94 superjet after sitting all winter (and most of summer). I tried to fire it up and it was not getting fuel. If i pour gas or starting fluid down the carb it runs fine. I removed the fuel filter and drained it then reinstalled it. It filled up with new gas when i had it running on gas i poured down the carb, but the motor still died after it burned through the gas i poured in. I replaced the fuel filter last season so i know its not that. I'm thinking about doing a carb rebuild but wanted to see if anyone had any input before i started tearing it apart. Thanks!

 

[FlightPlanDan]

Hey guys, its been a while since i've been on here but I recently pulled out my 94 superjet after sitting all winter (and most of summer). I tried to fire it up and it was not getting fuel. If i pour gas or starting fluid down the carb it runs fine. I removed the fuel filter and drained it then reinstalled it. It filled up with new gas when i had it running on gas i poured down the carb, but the motor still died after it burned through the gas i poured in. I replaced the fuel filter last season so i know its not that. I'm thinking about doing a carb rebuild but wanted to see if anyone had any input before i started tearing it apart. Thanks!

Most of us run our motors often enough that ethanol is not an issue. However, prolonged sitting can do the same damage to a 2 stroke as it can to a 4 stroke, even without a bowl-type carb. Small ports get gacked-up and drive you insane.
Pulse line drives fuel pumping via crank case pressure.
If fuel is not delivered, Check pulse line, then clean the carb.

 

[Vumad]

Sometimes a cleaning is sufficient when saves you $70 per carb on a rebuild. Take it all apart, write down all your specs (be sure to count screw settings by turning them in before you remove them), clean real well, reassemble and test. You need to open both sides of the carb and clean them. You test with a popoff gauge. If it specs out right, you should be good to go without buying new parts. If the popoff and leak test do not go properly, you have to rebuild. You should replace the carb base gasket everytime you remove the carb, but I don't if it's in good condition. Just be careful of a lean condition from a leaking gasket. You may want to drain the fuel and flush your fuel lines before running it.

If you're going to let it sit a long time like that, you should try to get ethanol free fuel and add stabil for your last few rides. You also shouldn't dog it hard until you run the fuel through because it can lose some octane from sitting.

 

[FlightPlanDan]

Sometimes a cleaning is sufficient when saves you $70 per carb on a rebuild. Take it all apart, write down all your specs (be sure to count screw settings by turning them in before you remove them), clean real well, reassemble and test. You need to open both sides of the carb and clean them. You test with a popoff gauge. If it specs out right, you should be good to go without buying new parts. If the popoff and leak test do not go properly, you have to rebuild. You should replace the carb base gasket everytime you remove the carb, but I don't if it's in good condition. Just be careful of a lean condition from a leaking gasket. You may want to drain the fuel and flush your fuel lines before running it.

If you're going to let it sit a long time like that, you should try to get ethanol free fuel and add stabil for your last few rides. You also shouldn't dog it hard until you run the fuel through because it can lose some octane from sitting.

Sometimes a cleaning is sufficient when saves you $70 per carb on a rebuild. Take it all apart, write down all your specs (be sure to count screw settings by turning them in before you remove them), clean real well, reassemble and test. You need to open both sides of the carb and clean them. You test with a popoff gauge. If it specs out right, you should be good to go without buying new parts. If the popoff and leak test do not go properly, you have to rebuild. You should replace the carb base gasket everytime you remove the carb, but I don't if it's in good condition. Just be careful of a lean condition from a leaking gasket. You may want to drain the fuel and flush your fuel lines before running it.

If you're going to let it sit a long time like that, you should try to get ethanol free fuel and add stabil for your last few rides. You also shouldn't dog it hard until you run the fuel through because it can lose some octane from sitting.

Easy there Vumad! Let's get this rider through the basics first. He just wants the ski to run. He might not work for NASA.

 

[FlightPlanDan]

The carb is likely gacked up from sitting. Don't buy a re-build kit, don't buy anything until you pull the carb and clean it, with carb cleaner thru every tiny port. IMO. Don't overthink poop. Make it run.

 

[FlightPlanDan]

poop. lol.

 

[WJLarson14]

Thanks for all the replies, i think i'll go ahead and pull the carb and try to get it cleaned up. I'm guessing it's just gunked up because it ran great when i put it away.

 

[WJLarson14]

So I pulled the carb and soaked it in carb cleaner and got it running now, but only to find I have 3 broken motor mounts, which means more time before I'm back on the water...

 

[Vumad]

So I pulled the carb and soaked it in carb cleaner and got it running now, but only to find I have 3 broken motor mounts, which means more time before I'm back on the water...

I have @rhaas mounts. You wont be broken long for that. You can change mounts out with the motor in the hull.