Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
Rosie, that not the best advice. For the Money, Enhancers are great. They do what they are designed to do. What your suggesting can cost you upwards of over $1000.00. This guy is fairly new.
701 superjet bottom end help
- Thread starter Bikerant83
- Start date
Your parts list sounds typical to a Limited class race ski from about 10 -15 years ago.
Having to fall within the class rules from back then. We had to tune what we had to make it work around the track.
That included off the line or Holeshot, and out of the corners. Im happy to share some of this with you,
But please supply me with a little more info first. Please state exactly what cyl? 61x or 62t? If you look directly behind the carbs, there will be a stamping from the factory on the cyl to state this?
What CDI are you running? As well as flywheel / Stator? Exactly what brand / Model dry pipe?
Lastly, Pump/ nozzle / nozzle bore? (Pics will help)
Prefer to advise you correctly and not shoot in the dark.
Ski ya, Paul
Having to fall within the class rules from back then. We had to tune what we had to make it work around the track.
That included off the line or Holeshot, and out of the corners. Im happy to share some of this with you,
But please supply me with a little more info first. Please state exactly what cyl? 61x or 62t? If you look directly behind the carbs, there will be a stamping from the factory on the cyl to state this?
What CDI are you running? As well as flywheel / Stator? Exactly what brand / Model dry pipe?
Lastly, Pump/ nozzle / nozzle bore? (Pics will help)
Prefer to advise you correctly and not shoot in the dark.
Ski ya, Paul
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
With every mod there is always some give and take.
Dry Pipes make killer Mid to Top end power. But they can suffer in the low end.
Wet Pipe, (B Pipe) give great low to mid power. Top is good, but not like a Dry Pipe.
Dry Pipes can be a maintenance nightmare if you do not have the lord mounts setup perfectly, they will cause the orings and couplers to burn out. You need to run a Girdled head with a Dry Pipe (Unless it is a Power Factory or TNT, etc etc). Then I would still run one.
With either pipe you need a modified CDI or and MSD Enhancer so you can control the rev limiter. Otherwise you will be knocking on the OEM Rev Limiter causeing the ski to feel like the brakes are being put on.
Stay away from Programmable ignitions at this point. Not needed for your application. Not Cost Effective.
A 10/16 Hooker would be a good pitch for you after some porting is added.
How does that cost upwards of over 1000?
Safer due to less timing up top, plug and play trouble free. Don't know why a beginner wouldn't do it if they already planned on upgrading to an Enhancer. Have a friend new to skis that just did the zeel swap. Wouldn't say it's not beginner friendly.
Not saying it's the only thing that can make his setup run better, but it is one of the most noticeable things I've ever done considering how easy and cost effective it is.
@Bikerant83 if you can get all the information @Jr. Is asking it will be a really good start to getting your ski ripping instead of us just throwing specifics that may or may not be relevant to your setup.
If I were going zeel on a 2002 era dry pipe ski I would without question spend 800+ and have php do all the hard work so you have peace of mind knowing the Igniton is gonna work.
You can't easily remove the e-box with a dry pipe like you can with a b pipe or lay down. It is not something you want to have to mess with often with up and over pipes. Just my 2ct.
You can't easily remove the e-box with a dry pipe like you can with a b pipe or lay down. It is not something you want to have to mess with often with up and over pipes. Just my 2ct.