701 with a b-pipe thread.

[FlightPlanDan]

Dan do you have a stock prop in your boat or a swirl??

Skat 12/17 swirl. I've been told (by the guy who knows) that a bored nozzle would "wake-up" that impellor.

my ski: http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/72824-FlightPlanDan-s-rn-sj&highlight=FlightPlanDan

 

[skibums4life]

Hey guys,

I've seen a few 701 set ups and really here's what I felt
-Stick with the stock 38's you can get them to hit hard and clean
-Best bang for the buck head
-Then Pipe, as long as you tune it
-Run the lowest prop for free ride, just getting a hooker to try but my 12-17 skat with a ww cone worked well, go either wwc or bore nozzle
-Take weight out of the ski, I've seen some pretty light feeling superjets, poly foam in rear, light battery
-Total loss is great and you can't compare without it but its a huge upgrade and not many of us want to deal with tuning
-D-Cut the rideplate, makes it ride a little more nose high and feels lighter
-Inline restricter and flow control valve, take as much water out of the waterbox and stinger without it melting, it really wakes up the off idle hit
-An MSD is a cheap upgrade I've had both thoughts on if it was worth it or stick with a stocker

I ran the exact same stock motor with a set of 46 full specs on it with an boyseen intake on it and a pair of 38's I feel their was no difference and definitely not worth the motor, I'd stick with 38's until I was up to a at least a 760 bb.

 

[FlightRisk]

Hey guys,

I've seen a few 701 set ups and really here's what I felt
-Stick with the stock 38's you can get them to hit hard and clean
-Best bang for the buck head
-Then Pipe, as long as you tune it
-Run the lowest prop for free ride, just getting a hooker to try but my 12-17 skat with a ww cone worked well, go either wwc or bore nozzle
-Take weight out of the ski, I've seen some pretty light feeling superjets, poly foam in rear, light battery
-Total loss is great and you can't compare without it but its a huge upgrade and not many of us want to deal with tuning
-D-Cut the rideplate, makes it ride a little more nose high and feels lighter
-Inline restricter and flow control valve, take as much water out of the waterbox and stinger without it melting, it really wakes up the off idle hit
-An MSD is a cheap upgrade I've had both thoughts on if it was worth it or stick with a stocker

I ran the exact same stock motor with a set of 46 full specs on it with an boyseen intake on it and a pair of 38's I feel their was no difference and definitely not worth the motor, I'd stick with 38's until I was up to a at least a 760 bb.

I am working on the same setup for my 04 SJ, except with an EPIC ignition. Would the next obvious upgrade be a mag pump? What's the best bang for your $ on a mag?

 

[FlightPlanDan]

Yep, 38's are all you need for a 701. (dual). Of coarse, single carb'd 701's go bigger.

I felt more bang from the pipe than the head....but they are both great for getting the most out of a 701.

The D-cut plate is an over-rated mod. If the plate's not made that way it severely weakens it. (I've destroyed a few). I'm back to the worx plate, but it's longer than stock. Felt no performance difference. If I had to do it again, I'd run the stock plate without cutting it.

Now, the scoop intake grate really made a difference in choppy water. Keeps that pump wet. I love it. But there are those who like thier ride more "slippery" and prefer stock.

 

[Dustin Mustangs]

i called jetworks. he built a no bs 701 that runs very well and wasnt too much money. in the end im running std. bore 61x freeride ported cylinder, jetworks modded 38mm carbs, ada head 33cc domes, type 4 drypipe, flow control, hooker 9/15 and pump cone. stock reeds, ignition. cant believe how good this set-up works for the money spent. btw, the b limited i had didnt produce the same abount of power as the type 4. IMO the type 4 makes more USABLE power then the b limited and costs about half as much.
id love to try total loss next

Art put me together almost the exact same package. I still can't get over how fast this thing is now and the rings aren't even seated yet. He wants me to change props too, so it is only going to get better. I will never again try to piece meal a combo together on my own. Find a good builder and do EVERYTHING he says to! That's my advise.

:hail: Long live the Art!

 

[Polish jet pilot]

I have most of the components that were listed in above threads. What I found out is that the biggest hit comes from (watch out now): leaning the carbs and opening the top screw considerably...

Yes, I realize that opebning the top screw might have c onsequences, but I could never get my pipe to run hot, and once I started to open the top screw (others closed) I felt very big gain in punch. So, maybe someone can explain the B-pipe tuning again (and not as F-pipe states on their website). The hotter the pipe = more power, the more water you add on the top screw, the more bottom end punch it produces - thus the controversy - Maybe if you have a big motor and you are after RPM's the bottom screw open is better, but for mild engines I found the top is the key...

 

[Big Kahuna]

I have all the basic bolt ons, including Team Scream modded 44's. But probably the biggest change I ever noticed was when my bore hit 83mm. The motor came alive at that point. I would almost stack it against my LPW 84mm big bore. Off the bottom it had more hit. My LPW has seemed to have more hit coming out the bottom into the mid.

 

[Freakrider]

I have most of the components that were listed in above threads. What I found out is that the biggest hit comes from (watch out now): leaning the carbs and opening the top screw considerably...

Yes, I realize that opebning the top screw might have c onsequences, but I could never get my pipe to run hot, and once I started to open the top screw (others closed) I felt very big gain in punch. So, maybe someone can explain the B-pipe tuning again (and not as F-pipe states on their website). The hotter the pipe = more power, the more water you add on the top screw, the more bottom end punch it produces - thus the controversy - Maybe if you have a big motor and you are after RPM's the bottom screw open is better, but for mild engines I found the top is the key...

the top screw only open is max bottom end at the cost of more moisture in the motor per my builder...builder says run middle screw only open one half turn....the top screw is above (higher) than the exhaust manifold and close to the manifold so some water gets into the motor at times...

 

[DirtyJ]

5 things in this order IMHO
-B-pipe (Mod)
-Prop lots of good ones but I like my 13-17 solas
-Flow control valve
-Lightweight flywheel
-Porting and plenty of it!

 

[ou812]

I'm running a seat from a needle and seat in my water box line. Has any one ran this then switched to a FCV? Just wondering if there's a noticeable difference if I were to go to a FCV.

 

[Dustin Mustangs]

I run both a 2mm restirctor at the box and a fcv on my stinger line. This was recommended to me by jetworks (for my setup at least).

 

[Pablo]

TL made the single best change in my ski. I did all bolts ons...head/pipe/prop/etc. Not too difficult to setup and with quick disconnects it's a breeze to keep the battery charged.

 

[FlightPlanDan]

TL is the sh#t, but not in surf. (from what I've heard).


Since we've opened this up to the pump area, instead of starting another thread, I've got a question for all:
We all have similar, if not the same set-ups:
Tell me the best impellor for bottom end + some all purpose. No concern for top speed.

Looking for input. I'm cavitating pretty badly. I know my pump seal is sucking air. I'll fix that this week. But the last time I had my impellor out, the leading edges were tight, but the trailing edges had more clearance (GAP) than should be there.

I'm currently running a skat swirl 12/17.

Depending upon responses, I'd like to get another and send this one out to be refurbished.
But I bought it b4 I did a lot of the mods.
Is it still the right impellor?

Your thoughts are appreciated.

Dan


My ski complete is shown in post #21. But add in a bored nozzle (85.5mm) that I just recieved and will install when I fix the pump seal.

 

[superjetkev]

Art put me together almost the exact same package. I still can't get over how fast this thing is now and the rings aren't even seated yet. He wants me to change props too, so it is only going to get better. I will never again try to piece meal a combo together on my own. Find a good builder and do EVERYTHING he says to! That's my advise.

:hail: Long live the Art!

yes Art made my life a lot easier!

drop in, set the idle and go. i have just this past weekend added ported and epoxied cases, lightened stock flywheel and 84mm nozzle.
also intresting is Art had me install a 3mm spacer behind my hooker. Its his opinion that the hooker hooks "too much" and lugs the engine down some. this spacer will "free up" my impeller while not making it cavitate, allowing to get on the pipe quicker.

 

[dabeetereater]

95 b1 62t/61x 701 race ported case and cylinders, 3 mil billet stroker, old school riva girdle head, dual 46mm buckshots, b pipe w/ limited chamber, custom rear exhaust w/modified 800wb, ported pump w 15/19 solas, stock electronics for now, gps 50.1 on 1/2 throttle.
defoamed hull, 2 layers of carbon on inside -3 off rear deck + 2 layers of carbon. not painted or turfed yet


this is my setup and im going back to a sj mod chamber it made TONS more power than a dam b1 limited chamber,

i cant say what made a difference but changing chambers made drastic power loss for me,

lost 5 mph by going to a limited chamber,

 

[Polish jet pilot]

yes Art made my life a lot easier!

drop in, set the idle and go. i have just this past weekend added ported and epoxied cases, lightened stock flywheel and 84mm nozzle.
also intresting is Art had me install a 3mm spacer behind my hooker. Its his opinion that the hooker hooks "too much" and lugs the engine down some. this spacer will "free up" my impeller while not making it cavitate, allowing to get on the pipe quicker.

I seen some pro riders riding a lot of "spacing" on their impeller - it cavitates a bit, but when the pipe comes up the hook up becomes crazy - but this is for big motors.. IMO