Surfriding 8 vein magnum pump

anyone ever run one of these?



Im curious as to the surf performance.....Figure it would be slightly more aggressive than a stock 6 vein style, but not as aggro as a 12 vein


personally, I dont like the feel of a 12V 144 mag in the surf...its too "grabby" for my taste


but a little more hookup might be ok





been kicking around the idea of having maxx build me a 148mm 8 vein surf pump



just thinking out loud, discuss


http://www.skat-trak.com/magnum.html
 
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OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
My Wife has an 140mm 8 vane non-setback in her Superjet and it doesn't seem to hookup near as bad as mine. I bought it with the exact same reasoning that you layed out in your original post.

i think the prop plays a big role though and her's is a bit overpropped at the moment. I am starting to think that overpropped is better in the surf.
I have heard many flatwater guys say they love the 9/15 where surf guys with a similar setup love the 10/16.
 

snowxr

V watch your daughters V
Location
Waterford, MI
I usually ride flatwater, so I built myself a 148 12vane, and have a 148 18vane in the works. I have given a lot of thought to a 9 vane surf pump, but would likely never have the time to properly test it.
 
I usually ride flatwater, so I built myself a 148 12vane, and have a 148 18vane in the works. I have given a lot of thought to a 9 vane surf pump, but would likely never have the time to properly test it.

of course Ive seen that post.....18 vein while I COMPLETLY see the benefit in flatwater if you have enough engine to spin it


an 8 or 9 vein just seems like a happy medium.......


my current setup is WDK F1 pro with an XS 785 billet 7 port single 49 full spec and a STOCK pump 13/19 cutback skat and STOCK intake grate


have been thru all the combos of 144 pumps stock and mag with different intakes from topload to stock..my boat is loooosey goosey


but a little more hookup in the whitewash is enticing...that is the ONLY ONLY ONLY feature of the 144 mag that I miss




send that baby to me...lets work something out

:)
 
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Tyler Zane

Open Your Eyes
I want a pump that has bolt in vanes that is fully adjustable...

That's a good idea, I know just how it could be done. First make 4 veins stationary to hold the hub in place. Between them would be channels where veins or smooth pieces could slide in. Lastly they would lock into place with a ring in the back that has bolts threaded into the stator section. Your could change it simply by pulling off the reduction nozzle. No pump removal needed.
 

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
more veins plus a larger hub help to build pump pressure...


more pressure = a harder "hookup" when it grabs the water




when trying to ride the face of the wave, you want the tires to spin some...but not boil, nor holeshot....make sense??
Maybe you should increase your exit nozzle diameter or go with one that has a greater tapered angle if you're wanting to decrease the pump pressure.

Did your mag come with different size tail cones?
 
Maybe you should increase your exit nozzle diameter or go with one that has a greater tapered angle if you're wanting to decrease the pump pressure.

Did your mag come with different size tail cones?


nozzle is stock, but I do have an extra one thats bored to 86.....


do not have a selection of tailcones..thats always something I wanted to try.....currently have a shorty cone
 

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
I'd try using the larger nozzle and see if it helps.

If it's a 64R or 62T or 65V reduction nozzle with a greater angles it might help more.

The 86mm diameter might be a bit too much for a mag pump but if need one taper bored or a custom tail cone just let me know.
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
The 86mm diameter might be a bit too much for a mag pump...

I don't want to derail the thread at all but can you explain this please? I bored my nozzle to 86.5 and have always wondered if I went too far. I'm using a 144 Skat Setback Mag and am trying to find the same middle ground as Idok.
 

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
The basic reduction nozzle rules are; the larger the nozzle exit diameter, the greater the volume of water you can move. This is great for a freestyle bottom end and hole shots but the problem is that sometimes you do not have the proper exit velocity for top speed. The smaller the nozzle exit diameter, the greater the velocity of the water exiting, the better the top speed. The problem is that sometimes there is not enough volume of water to get the ski to top speed. It takes a blend of the two that gets both hole shot and top speed. If you have two different exit sizes or angles to compare, then one is more than likely better than the other and it takes testing to find out what works best with your setup. All the nozzles have a tapered exit angle and it is NOT recommended to bore them straight because it loses pump efficiency so the angle should be maintained if boring your nozzle. I'm sure each reduction nozzle that Yamaha develops is specifically engineered for their skis by the engine power to weight ratio, pump size, impeller type & pitch, hull design, top speed, drag etc. Most of their jet-ski’s with smaller displacement engines that weigh less use the steeper 25.5-degree reduction nozzle angles with varying nozzle exit tip angles. While the bigger ski’s that weigh more with the larger engine displacements use the 21-degree reduction nozzle angle with different nozzle exit angles and sizes. Some of their nozzles even use a bowl shape design with the nozzle exit angled upwards. Your hull can travel at radically different angles at different speeds depending on your ride plate, venturi angle and even how you're positioned on the ski. The steeper nozzle exit angles of 3.5-degrees or more will lighten the nose of the craft and may add top speed. While the shallower nozzle exit angles of 2.5-degrees or less will deliver improved performance in rough water conditions by producing more nose pressure to drive the hull through the bumps which is perfect for closed coarse and offshore competition race boats. Also a ski traveling at an angle of 2-degrees does not bring in the same amount of water into the intake tunnel as a ski traveling at 5-degrees at real high speeds. The faster the ski travels the greater its tendency to run flatter and use a smaller venturi. If you continue to try to run at 5-degrees, then you're going to run into the pump over stuffing problem and a bigger diameter venturi may be just what you need to process that extra volume of water coming into the intake. Mag pumps use larger diameter hubs which increases the pump pressure slightly since there's is less area typically the exit nozzle diameters don't need to be increase as much. All these things need to be taken into consideration when using other reduction nozzles types with different angles and exit diameters.

Here's a chart to see all the angles and dimensions of the different type reduction nozzles.
 

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