95 HX Dies after 2 minutes

[Hydrophilic455]

Having some difficulty troubleshooting this seadoo. Got it cheap from a guy who said it was “hard starting” and he’d messed with the electrical box. Trying to get this running I’ve:
-replaced the electrical box after trying an aftermarket MPEM and still not getting spark
-not much water from pisser so found some sand in it and blew all the lines with air
-I noticed a lot of air bubbles in the fuel line to the carb, it was clear. So I disconnected it from the fuel selector and ran a line straight from the tank to the carb.

Took it out and it ran great but died after about 2 minutes of riding. Towed it back, it fired up again then same thing. I disconnected the temp sensor to see if that would make a difference and it did not. It just cut out with almost no warning/bogging.

 

[mikidymac]

First off that is a really fun and challenging ski, I love mine.

The seadoo's are kind of a strange animal and have their own kwerks.
1. Make sure you do not have gray fuel lines, if you do you need to get rid of them and replace with standard 1/4" black automotive fuel hose.
2. Rebuild the carbs including new needle and seats with only Genuine Mikuni kits and parts, not WSM, SBT ebay or Wonderosa or you will be chasing your tail. Don't use the springs in the kits. Make sure you verify pop-off and leakdown on the carbs.
3. Get a new OEM fuel selector and o-ring for the fuel strainer as this is your most common place to suck air when they get old.
4. Make sure you are using only API-TC injection oil, not the TCW-3 that yamaha and kawasaki use.
5. Throw in a new set of NGK BR8ES spark plugs.

You are running lean from a dirty fuel system so stop trying to run it until you do all steps above or you will seize the engine.

The temp sensor is just an idiot buzzer and does not do anything to the way the ski runs or electrical system.

 

[Hydrophilic455]

Yes for the couple minutes I’ve had it out it’s seemed really fun
1. Yes it does have those crap Tampo gray fuel lines which I am going to replace but that is why I justran a new line straight to the tank to the carb bypassing the fuel switch for testing purposes
2. I have no problem rebuilding the carbs, could that be why it would just die like that?
3. I will get a fuel selector when I replace the lines but am fine with running it straight from the tank for now until I know this thing works
4. I’m not sure what oil was used by the previous owner
5. Put a new set of those plugs in as well for got to list it

Ok if the fuel system is my problem I will rebuild the carbs I just wanted to see what other possible issues there were before I did that and it is not the problem. It ran and started fine on land, but not as much in the water. Are there any other possible causes for my issue? Thank you for the quick response

 

[mikidymac]

Nope, 99.99% of the time on these it's the fuel system with the symptoms you are describing.
1. The Tempo lines rot from the inside and plug up the carb fittings and filters so just replacing the one line does not fix the problem.
2. Absolutely.
3. Ok.
4. If it is blue or green it is wrong and needs to be drained, flushed and bled with the correct oil and a new oil filter. I would also change the small 3/32" tygon oil lines from the oil pump to the intake manifold as they get old and break starving the engine of oil.

 

[Hydrophilic455]

Nope, 99.99% of the time on these it's the fuel system with the symptoms you are describing.
1. The Tempo lines rot from the inside and plug up the carb fittings and filters so just replacing the one line does not fix the problem.
2. Absolutely.
3. Ok.
4. If it is blue or green it is wrong and needs to be drained, flushed and bled with the correct oil and a new oil filter. I would also change the small 3/32" tygon oil lines from the oil pump to the intake manifold as they get old and break starving the engine of oil.

The carb rebuild kits should be arriving today so I will pull the carbs and do that today. I also have a primer kit so I will remove the smoke plates and shaft and install that while the carbs are out. Fingers crossed this fixes the issues. It does have green oil so I guess that’s bad. What is wrong with the green oil and what kind of oil does the seadoo need to have?

 

[SUPERJET-113]

Dont run it anymore till you get the basket filters cleaned, or replaced if they come in your rebuild kits. You could slowly be lean seizing and loosing compression.
Also IMO, I would block off the oil injector and just premix for peace of mind.

 

[mikidymac]

Actually the seadoo oil pumps don’t fail so it’s perfectly safe to keep the oil injection. Just replace the small 3/32” tygon lines from the pump to intake. Those lines break from being 20 years old then everyone blames the pumps.

Also no reason to add a primer on these as the choke works perfectly fine if your carbs are clean and running correctly.

Your easiest oil is the seadoo XPS. Your ski can run the Mineral oil.
The seadoo has a higher spec oil requirement so only run API-TC, never anything that says TCW-3.

 

[CHRISRACERX]

Definitely change out the lines, filter, oring for filter, clean carbs with mikuni kits, new carb base gaskets, fuel selector n clean out the tank.
If there’s crap in the tank it will just clog up your new stuff you just installed. Do it once correctly. That part doesn’t even cost money, just time.
Sometimes the regular auto fuel lines are really thick. I’ve used the fuel injection line before n it works. Thinner, more pliable but more expensive.

 

[SUPERJET-113]

Actually the seadoo oil pumps don’t fail so it’s perfectly safe to keep the oil injection.

Maybe the seadoo oil pumps have a good rep, but lines break and things clog. Premix is a fail-safe. BUT, if you want to not worry about mixing oil/fuel, then yes keep the oil injection.

 

[mikidymac]

Maybe the seadoo oil pumps have a good rep, but lines break and things clog. Premix is a fail-safe. BUT, if you want to not worry about mixing oil/fuel, then yes keep the oil injection.

I agree with you, any other oil injection I remove but the seadoo ones. They are also variable rate and volume is controlled by the throttle cable not rpm. In 25 years working on seadoos and skis I have never seen a seadoo one fail. I have them on all my seadoos and never worry about them failing. But I service my stuff religiously too.

 

[slag]

Plus, you then have to still keep oil in the reservoir for the rotary valve/brass gear or make a loop and keep it full of oil and it's a hassle. I agree, on the seadoos, keep the oil injection and just replace the lines.