98 750 SXI Pro Factory Head Pipe Repair

[Cybersnypa]

Hey, I am looking for someone with a machine shop who has experience getting the jets out of a Factory head pipe. I drilled the top one out and its not quite perfect. I want to send it in to someone who knows what there doing before I make the hole larger. If affordable I would also pay to have the other two extracted and replaced. Local machine shop here might do it but they arent going to have a clue what an exhaust jet is or how it works let alone the parts. Getting at least the one jet fixed has to cost less than replacing the whole thing but I am very close to selling it on ebay and buying new. let me know if anyone knows who to contact.

 

[fastgtfairlane]

they are not jets, theyre water injection bleed screws. youre probably better off trying to heat the screws up to remove them than to try and drill them out.

 

[Cybersnypa]

I did try that. Its not as easy as it looks. I ended up breaking the extractor and I luckily got it out with a carbide bit. The allen head on top is gone on the others and there is nothing strong enough to grab onto with vice grips. You would have to have a nice extractor then use heat. And your right water injection screws.

 

[fastgtfairlane]

Need to heat the head pipe up in the oven and weld a nut on the end of the screw, give it some taps with a hammer then slowly work it out going a little at a time.

 

[fastgtfairlane]

A good machinist should be able to tackle that for you or if you have access to a tig welder

 

[Storbeck]

Maybe @Jr. or @JetManiac or @powerhouseperformance can do it or recommend a shop. I'm sure there are others that I'm not thinking of. Look up the builders on the here.

 

[Storbeck]

@john zigler

 

[Storbeck]

Groupk might be able to do it, Google "groupk"

 

[Cybersnypa]

I will look up group k and try to message some of those people you mentioned. I tried with the heat and an extractor and it didnt budge so I give up. I might have to take it to a local machine shop but it would cost so much I could only afford to fix the one.

Theres nothing to weld to and nothing to grab onto, the only way would be heat and an extractor. As far as the damaged one its almost gone. I just need the oversized hole drilled straight and make sure the spray hole at the bottom isnt damaged.

 

[john zigler]

@john zigler

Thanks Storbeck, I think I have talked to him already.

 

[Carrera911]

I was trying to get one out with heat a vice grips and broke it off flush. I was still able to mig weld on a nut and back it out. The heat from the weld freed it up pretty good. It’s not that hard either since the pipe is aluminum, you can’t really screw up and weld the nut to it. I’d let a shop do that to the other two, but the first one might just be able to be tapped to a bigger size. If not, welded shut then drill and tap to the stock size.


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[te4250]

Its all about timing, dont need to heat the pipe just weld the nut on and wait that perfect 97 seconds or whatever right when the heat has all transferred from the screw to the surrounding heapipe and then attack. Just like icy hot, the hot screw in the cold pipe forces a little clearance then the resulting hot pipe surrounding the cool screw relaxes the pain away.

 

[Cybersnypa]

 

[te4250]

might just be able to tap it and run a cup point set screw

 

[Cybersnypa]

What is that? I dont think the bottom hole is damaged by the drill bit but the bolt is still stuck in there, whats left of it. The hole is off by a mm because with out a drill press the bit wanders.

Here is the second one, this is what the first one looked like till I drilled down the center for an extractor.



I ordered a whole oversized kit. Probably will only use one or 2. I am just going to leave the other two unless the machine shop wants to hook me up and drill that damaged one.

 

[te4250]

They’re probably just gonna do it with a pistol drill like you did the first one, it’d be a pita to fixture. The nice thing about drilling set screws is you already have a centered pilot hole. If your gonna drill it start with a bit that’s smaller than the minor diameter of the threads that way it’s not trying to walk over to the aluminum, then work your way out to the tap drill diameter and you should just leave the threads behind if your careful then you can chase with a tap to remove them. If it dosent go well you can always punch it out to the next size but you should still have a fairly centered hole.
Cup point is just like a normal set screw, not a pointed one, I say to use that on the first one cause the hole looks a bit off center and where a pointed screw would miss the bottom hole, a cup point may seal on the area around it.

 

[Storbeck]

None of those shops were able to do it or recommend somebody who can?

 

[te4250]

I'd be very surprised if it was not 18-8 or 316 which is not hard. At the most they'd be 17-4 which actually drills easier than either of those two because it is harder and has less nickel. Any decent or even new Chinese hss drill will do it, stainless just needs a lower surface footage and constant chip load to not burn up bits, with a pistol dril this translates to push hard and spin slow. Also most importantly the bit has to be sharp to start with. If its dull you will work harden the surface and its a battle from there

 

[mikidymac]

I had a really easy time drilling out stainless head bolts with a few new cobalt drill bits and a good cutting fluid like Tap Magic. Couldn't have been easier but you have to use a cutting fluid.

 

[mikidymac]

Did this work as well on the Factory Head Pipe Stainless Set Screws?

Didn't have to drill them but Factory Pipe doesn't use any special stainless so it should work the same.