300/440/550 A couple 550sx questions!

[rschap1]

First:
I just bought a 92 550sx to join my 1990. The solid rubber pads along the tray/footwell side areas have seperated from their plastic backing forms. My 90 has a very slight amount of the same condition, but not so bad as I ever messed with it. This one though needs attention. I slid the left (as veiwed from rear of ski) of and tried to glue the pads back on the form. Stretch, clamp, glue...glue stretch clamp...tried to pull the rubber through each lil' hole etc too. Still not much better after a few hours of wrestling with it. Didn't do much to the right hand side except lay a lil glue under edges. As common as this is on these, I am sure someone has a far better fix than what I tried. New "assemblies" available? Screws, rivets? Anyone done better than adhesive?

Second:
The same 1992 backfires. Reed motor all stock except water box. Put fresh gas/oil mix and fired in the drive. It backfires as it winds up and gains rpms. Did it REAL bad at first. Blew exhaust off the water box. Drained old fuel and thought it might help. Started yesterday, did not seem as bad, but still popped once.

Third and lastly:
1990 seems to drain the battery as it sits.
Any ideas / help ?
Appreciate anything.

This forum looks GREAT, looking forward to hitting it more and THANKS ahead of time!!!

 

[Mr Bojangles]

The rubber trays are junk. Some people have used rivits to hold them on, but I took them off and used some turf to cover them.

 

[DMan II-40]

Yeah, i just tried to start my js300 for the first time the other day and it backfired and blew the exhaust off the waterbox just like yours. I never got a reply in my thread though. Maybe someone will answer that question in here.

 

[DMan II-40]

Ok, someone replied to my thread. They said the reason my exhaust popped of was probably because too much gas was poured in the carb. Then when it backfired it ignited the gas in the exhaust. Seems logical.

 

[rschap1]

I realize that a rich fuel mix will lead to possible backfire, may main concern/question is wether or not that is an indicator of something else like weak, bad, or broken reeds?? Leaky seals? Bad timing? or anything else to look into deeper. Actually hope is still that once I get it in the water (still COLD) that it will warm up and run well w/o any backfire at all. It has ran all of about 45 seconds-1 minute after sitting for 9+ months. Thanks !

 

[jetski9010]

If you still got time now you might want to pop off your flywheel and make sure your flywheel key is not sheared. If it is this will let the flywheel slip and advance the timing causing the sputtering and backfireing your taking about.
It could also be a carb problem if you have a leaking needle and seat in the carb and its letting fuel dribble down in your motor during idle the motor will load up with raw fuel and then when every it makes its way to the exhaust boom! But first I would say to check on that flywheel I have had several do this too me.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Ditto on the flywheel key, yank the pads off, fill in the area with padding and turf over it.

 

[rschap1]

Appreciate the tips. I will see about pulling the flywheel cover and checking the key. I wonder more about the carb leak too. It does seem like the longer it idled the worse the backfires were...Pretty must GUESSING now though, as I have only started in two short bursts in the drive totalling a minute maybe.
I will take a peak at the flywheel key before dragging down to the lake, THANKS!

I was hoping to keep the rubber stuff on the sides, I have not seen or heard anyone do anything but replace with turf
Apperciate any help if there is another "oddball" like me that has done anything to save the stock stuff.

 

[jetski9010]

You can start it up with the filter off the carb that way you can look down the carb while its running. If you see fuel dipping down the carb you know you have a problem with your n/s in the carb. This would more then likely just make it stall from being too rich but I guess it could also make it load up and back fire. Check on that flywheel key first. You going to have to pull the flywheel off. If you dont have a puller check your auto parts store to see if they have a puller or even a steering wheel puller will work.

 

[rschap1]

I appreciate and will peek down the carb as you mentioned. Thanks. I have a pretty good assortment of pullers, the key way mis-align -slip - spin wouldn't be visible w/o pulling it? The idle on this thing is pretty high, wondering if that doesn't keep it running if if rich....?

I will be searching some type of clips, buttons, or fasteners to pin those pads down. I just wanted to make sure that there wasn't some better/easier fix I was oblivious to. I looked through the classifieds here for a couple things I will be after w/o any finds. Anyone have...
A K&N or other air filter/spark arrestor for the 92 550sx?
A cover for a stand up?
Maybe a pipe? I already got an aluminum water box, but thinking of cutting the head down a little, and getting a pipe or 1/2 pipe. That is if it runs out good this week. Hoping to finally get in the lake. THANKS AGAIN!

 

[jetski9010]

Yes you will have to pull the flywheel to check the key way condition. A higher idle doesnt make it run richer but it could have been running too rich at idle and would stall the motor out so someone could have rised the idle really high to keep it running.
I would go for the factory 1/2 pipe and cut your head if I were you. Those two would be the best bang for your buck. If you want to get your head shaved down contact memeber #zero on here he can do that for you. There are two different kinds of half pipes so make sure you get the one for the newer 550sx models. I am sure you want to make sure it gets running right first so check back with what you find.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

I wouldn't bother shaving the head 550SX's are already at 170 lbs stock 10lbs more is not enough diff to justify the cost IMHO. Get a decent impeller and a half pipe, put a primer kit on it and take the choke shaft out of the carb, but get it running properly in stock trim first.On the pads maybe look into some hood liner clips, you would just drill through the pads and into the hull squirt some sillycone into the holes and install the clips, they should hold your pads on , for a while anyway.

 

[Big Kahuna]

I wouldn't bother shaving the head 550SX's are already at 170 lbs stock 10lbs more is not enough diff to justify the cost IMHO. Get a decent impeller and a half pipe, put a primer kit on it and take the choke shaft out of the carb, but get it running properly in stock trim first.On the pads maybe look into some hood liner clips, you would just drill through the pads and into the hull squirt some sillycone into the holes and install the clips, they should hold your pads on , for a while anyway.

Rare occassion I agree with Terry, but I agree. Dont bother with the head.

I used some washers and screws to hold the rubber mats on. Like others said, remove the stock pads and re-turf.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Rare occassion I agree with Terry, but I agree. Dont bother with the head.

I used some washers and screws to hold the rubber mats on. Like others said, remove the stock pads and re-turf.

You don't always have to agree with me , just remember that I am usually right and everything will be fine.

 

[Big Kahuna]

LOL
If you say so.

 

[rschap1]

Thanks to all!
You guys are mirroring alot of what I have been thinking. I was figuring the idle was cranked to compensate for a rich/leaky carb and just contemplating cutting the head. As a former tol and die guy with access to our tool room still, I would probably be back asking for specifics, but do the machining myself. Hopefully today or this week atleast I will be hitting the lake and see what I find. I have already removed the pads once and tried to re-wrap the rubber around their shells, so rather than poke holes into the hull, I plan on trying to get some type of gadget short enough to just pull those two together

 

[rschap1]

Well, both skis been running good. Alot of worrying over the 92 for no reason. ran great. A good bit better/faster than the 90. I just gotta find some clips or buttons to hold the pads onto their plastic "frames" now. THANKS again for all the in-site and help!!

 

[rschap1]

So far so good...
I have a quick connect on the 1990's battery and unplugging when not ridin. Haven't had the courage to leave it and see if it drains or not. My brother is a Master electrician, I will get him and his Fluke meter over this weekend and he will know better how to check for a drain than I was able to.
Picked up a handfull of automotive type push in and christmas tree fasteners for the 92's pads. Hoping those along with more contact cement and silicone will keep those fastened on. Both running good now though. Just gotta ride 'em more now. Come on summer sunshine!!
Thanks once again for everyone's help and input!

BTW...yesterday my $30 cover from Overton's showed. Pretty nice for the price. Not HD canvas like a factory but once I Googled and found a free shipping code, $31.05 total cost delivered. I was glad to get the tarp back in the garage and a fitted cover on both skis. Just in case anyone else needs one.

 

[tmaxx445]

So far so good...
I have a quick connect on the 1990's battery and unplugging when not ridin. Haven't had the courage to leave it and see if it drains or not. My brother is a Master electrician, I will get him and his Fluke meter over this weekend and he will know better how to check for a drain than I was able to.
Picked up a handfull of automotive type push in and christmas tree fasteners for the 92's pads. Hoping those along with more contact cement and silicone will keep those fastened on. Both running good now though. Just gotta ride 'em more now. Come on summer sunshine!!
Thanks once again for everyone's help and input!

BTW...yesterday my $30 cover from Overton's showed. Pretty nice for the price. Not HD canvas like a factory but once I Googled and found a free shipping code, $31.05 total cost delivered. I was glad to get the tarp back in the garage and a fitted cover on both skis. Just in case anyone else needs one.

Which cover did you get from Overtons, and how does it fit the 550sx?




thanks,
tmaxx445

 

[rschap1]

It was a "Gladiator" brand/model. It fits well, looks fine, and does FAR better than the blue plastic tarp and bungees that I was using for a week before.

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...440_550_330B_94_96&str=550+cover&merchID=4005

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Jet Gladiator® Ready-Fit PWC Cover - Kawasaki 440, 550, 330B '94-'96

Item # 36365

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Reg. $99.99Sale $29.29
A pleasure to handle and stow, this long-lasting cover will not crack, peel, or harden.
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