Aftermarket hull pump inserts

Location
Pa
Does anyone know what type of insert Krash uses for mounting the pump? Is it similar to a superjet?
 
Does anyone know what type of insert Krash uses for mounting the pump? Is it similar to a superjet?

Krash uses 3/8" thick by 1 1/4" wide aluminum blocks for "inserts" and they work ok.

The Superjet uses M10x1.25 thread pitch inserts. They are brass and the part number is

90179-10925-00​

You could also get some 464 brass block from McMaster and drill and tap it to whatever thread pitch you want. Thats what I did for my Krash, got the brass block, cut it, then drilled and tapped for 3/8x24 hardware, which I also ordered from McMaster. You can get nice 316 stainless hardware from them too.

Another option is to get some "ufo mounts" or Rotaloc inserts. I wouldn't use those for the pump though.
 
Location
Pa
Krash uses 3/8" thick by 1 1/4" wide aluminum blocks for "inserts" and they work ok.

The Superjet uses M10x1.25 thread pitch inserts. They are brass and the part number is

90179-10925-00​

You could also get some 464 brass block from McMaster and drill and tap it to whatever thread pitch you want. Thats what I did for my Krash, got the brass block, cut it, then drilled and tapped for 3/8x24 hardware, which I also ordered from McMaster. You can get nice 316 stainless hardware from them too.

Another option is to get some "ufo mounts" or Rotaloc inserts. I wouldn't use those for the pump though.
Ok. You had to drill that spot in the tray right? How hard were the blocks to remove after that?
 
Location
Pa
Krash uses 3/8" thick by 1 1/4" wide aluminum blocks for "inserts" and they work ok.

The Superjet uses M10x1.25 thread pitch inserts. They are brass and the part number is

90179-10925-00​

You could also get some 464 brass block from McMaster and drill and tap it to whatever thread pitch you want. Thats what I did for my Krash, got the brass block, cut it, then drilled and tapped for 3/8x24 hardware, which I also ordered from McMaster. You can get nice 316 stainless hardware from them too.

Another option is to get some "ufo mounts" or Rotaloc inserts. I wouldn't use those for the pump though.
Did the blocks sit in a square hole so they didn’t turn? What year was your ski?
 
Ok. You had to drill that spot in the tray right? How hard were the blocks to remove after that?

I removed the tray completely and the blocks are actually long plates that go from the front hole to the rear hole. If you have stripped an insert, I would 100% heli-coil it before you try anything else. Just don't drill too deep! Before I explain too much here, take a look at this thread and it might be helpful to know what to expect if you are planning on fixing an insert.

 
Location
Pa
I removed the tray completely and the blocks are actually long plates that go from the front hole to the rear hole. If you have stripped an insert, I would 100% heli-coil it before you try anything else. Just don't drill too deep! Before I explain too much here, take a look at this thread and it might be helpful to know what to expect if you are planning on fixing an insert.

Nice thread. Man they make it a pain in the ass to replace. Looks like the whole block is fiberglassed in. (Stupid) I’ll try helicoling it.
 
I used oem yamaha inserts for my superfreak. It had some stainless standard thread wooden looking inserts when I got it. I wanted all metric hardware so I went with the oem brass inserts and epoxied them in with cabosil and 8oz glass.
 

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Location
Pa
I used oem yamaha inserts for my superfreak. It had some stainless standard thread wooden looking inserts when I got it. I wanted all metric hardware so I went with the oem brass inserts and epoxied them in with cabosil and 8oz glass.
How did you keep the glass out of the threads?
 
Location
Pa
I removed the tray completely and the blocks are actually long plates that go from the front hole to the rear hole. If you have stripped an insert, I would 100% heli-coil it before you try anything else. Just don't drill too deep! Before I explain too much here, take a look at this thread and it might be helpful to know what to expect if you are planning on fixing an insert.

What seals the threads from water coming up them and getting into the foam?
 
Location
Pa
Epoxy Resin. The Insert Tops come sealed like that from the Factory.

When new ones are installed from the bottom/outside, have to use grease on the Threads and any area where epoxy is not wanted.

The Bolt usually doesn't bottom out in the Insert. That gap 'tween the End of the Bolt and the Top of the insert gets filled with Epoxy Resin plus the outside of the Insert.

Use the Ride Plate or Pump Padeyes as Templates for perfect Insert location, depending on which Inserts are being replaced.

Grease the Ride Plate and Pump Padeye Insert areas so they wont get epoxied to the Hull during the insert installation and curing.
So these have epoxy over them then?
 

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So these have epoxy over them then?

It seems like Krash installs the blocks with the bottom deck layup, then when the hull is removed from the mold it then gets drilled and tapped. So I guess just the threads are supposed to keep water out? I don't know but when I have installed inserts, I epoxy over the threads. Many different methods for doing it, but I personally cut a small piece of tape and cover the thread hole and epoxy straight over that tape.
 

long beach local

long beach local
Location
Az
Timecerts may be better than helicoil.
i used short 10mm stainless timecerts on my SF badass motor mounts the threads in the aluminum blocks just rotted away. A 90degree drill to get at the back mounts and it worked ok but had to be careful to drill barely deep enough on the freak as the bolts need to have a couple threads cut off if you own a freak you know. The stainless steel seems durable on the carbon hull.
When I glass around threaded inserts I put a thick layer of electrical tape on the threads of a long bolt and snug it up let the resin dry then remove bolt and no resin leaks into the threads. Many ways to skin a cat lol.
 
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