Andrew's SN Superjet

[Strangfactory]

Well, my name is Andrew, i live in Portland OR. This is my first post and first stand up jet ski. I have road a seadoo 99 xpl sense 2003.

The ski is a 95 sn superjet that is pretty stock. The previous owner said it has UMI pole, but has AC sticker on it?, aftermarket bilge pump, prop unknown pitch, ride plate. I paid $1800 for the ski.

Only bad thing is the cracks on handle pole bracket area. I am getting that squared away with the supplies from Blowsion, along with there billet bracket and limiting rope. They are only located 30min away.

Plans for the ski before summer is just clean it up and have handle pull shortened 5in as I'm 5' 7". I'm going to ride it pretty much as is till winter, then go crazy with it.

If any one know where to get a hand pole bracket brace/plate for the underside let me know. I have tried to contact hazard.

Let me know what you guys think.

 

[Roseand]

Welcome to the addiction man!
I'm also Andrew, and I have a 95 sn superjet as well Great ski for sure!
Definitely make sure you reinforce and drill out that crack good!
I would highly recommend ditching that aluminum pole, and getting a 1996-2007 RN pole since they are very easy to shorten and are much better in general!
This site has a wealth of information, so take advantage of that. You'll learn alot, and I'm sure you're gonna love your new ski!

 

[Strangfactory]

Thank you for the reply. What would be the advantage of going to 96+ pole aside from a better pole for less money than a stock SN pole? Wouldn't a SN or RN aftermarket pole be same quality and performance?

 

[OkaucheeMustard]

That aluminum pole is like 450 bucks. I have that exact one on the exact same ski. Do what you want im just sayin u can sell that for at least a couple hundred maybe more. Great ski btw

 

[Roseand]

a stock RN pole is much easier to shorten than an aluminum pole.

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[Yami-Rider]

a stock RN pole is much easier to shorten than an aluminum pole.

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It is also one of the lightest poles you can run, down side is they arent as strong metal poles, but as long as you run a limiting rope your be fine till you start doing barrels/backflips.

 

[Quinc]

I think there was an aluminum Squarenose pole on here for 200$ a couple months ago. I am not sure if it sold.

 

[MattyIce26]

Great looking ski, get some turf too. Stock turf looks a little burnt out

 

[Roseand]

Stock turf sucks too! molded diamond hydroturf is so much better.

 

[Strangfactory]

I will be buying the rrp pole bracket that comes with the bracing plate. As far as turf go I'll probly wait till winter because I want to strip the ski down and paint it.

OkaucheeMustard, I'm kinda confused by what you said. Are you saying its a good idea to sell this pole for a RN one?

I'm glad the ski looks good.

Edit: I'll probly save up for a rrp hand pole for SN or similar.

 

[OkaucheeMustard]

I was just saying dont take your aluminum pole to the scrap yard. Those are expensive. I have no input other than that. Everyone else seems to be saying cut a rn pole.

 

[Kohldanielzimmer]

Run it as is...shouldn't be a big deal at 5'7". Plus i think there are better areas to sink 800+ $ on a squarenose.

 

[OkaucheeMustard]

Im 6 ' 4" I dont cut down pole s. Its your ski so ya gotta run whats right for you man.

 

[Strangfactory]

Run it as is...shouldn't be a big deal at 5'7". Plus i think there are better areas to sink 800+ $ on a squarenose.

I will run it as is and if I need to shorten the pole I'll just shorten the one I have. I just picked a 6/4 wetsuit and I should be able to start riding beginning of April!

 

[Little_Franny]

Nice looking ski, your gonna have to do some glass work to fix the cracking around the handlepole bracket, they are known for that if you ride them hard. You def want a limiting rope, and a couple layers of glass on the inside of the pole bracket area to add some strength will help out.

 

[Strangfactory]

The previous owner added some glass to the under side already, but I plane on sanding the top down and adding 2 layers then repainting it. The RRP bracket has a reinforcement brace and uses 6 mounting holes.

Also ordering a limiting rope along with the materials to fix the cracks from Blowsion.

 

[Little_Franny]

no offense but that is hardly a repair for the size of the crack. you are going to pretty much grind that out and start over with the repair, last thing you want is that crack getting worse. the main problem is the glass is thin around where the bracket mounts and when the pole gets leveraged sideways or over extended then the glass flexes and cracks. you should also glass on the top to fill in existing cracks and then grind down. Sorry not trying to tell you what to do but that is a weak point on a square.

 

[Strangfactory]

no offense but that is hardly a repair for the size of the crack. you are going to pretty much grind that out and start over with the repair, last thing you want is that crack getting worse. the main problem is the glass is thin around where the bracket mounts and when the pole gets leveraged sideways or over extended then the glass flexes and cracks. you should also glass on the top to fill in existing cracks and then grind down. Sorry not trying to tell you what to do but that is a weak point on a square.

No offense taken, but that is what I said I was going to do. I'm going to sand/grind down the bracket mounting surface to the glass then add 2 layers or more to the surface. Also going to add a layer to the under side.

In this situation I would prefer to be told what to do so I do it right the first time.

 

[Roseand]

Reinforce with 1208 or 1708 biax. You might as well reinforce the whole area under the bracket so it doesn't flex at all. Add enough layers of 1208 or 1708 till it doesn't flex.. And yes, drill the crack, fill with thickened epoxy, and lay some glass..

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[Little_Franny]

I went a little overboard on the one I did, I reinforced the entire engine bay, but for that area specifically I turned hull upside down and used thickened epoxy and chop and filled the low areas so that it was easier to lay large pieces of cloth over the underside of the pole area and layer 2 layers of 1708 biax. I am no expert at glass but mine is solid, although a bit on the heavy side, but it is a square so it was already a tank. I also filled the bond line and did the sides.

As for the crack I would find the end and drill a hole to stop the crack from going further, grind out the crack on both sides so it's a v and then fill with thickened epoxy and chop, then later of glass, I would do one layer of 1708 top side and 2 layers on bottom. Will be overkill but solid.

Another good not is use epoxy, not polyester resin


Hope this helps, feel free to ask if you have any questions