Super Jet Another B pipe cooling question...

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rippedbx01

Location
Provo
So I bought a sj with a b pipe and replaced cooling lines. I’m 90% sure I hooked it back up the same way he had it. One line came from the pump to the front of the manifold. And I’m pretty sure the other came to the lower part of the pipe. Is that right? Should both lines from pump be going into the manifold?
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R

rippedbx01

Location
Provo
And I also might have left a paper towel in the exhaust manifold loosely and rode a tank of gas through it.
If you had to bet where the paper towel is now, would it be the lake? The waterbox? Still in the exhaust manifold?


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fastgtfairlane

fastgtfairlane

Location
Charlotte, NC
just tee the two outlets on the head together to one pisser. that will equalize flow between both cylinders. you can also tee the inlets on the manifold as well. i personally prefer a dedicated cooling line to the pipe for better water tuning on the pipe.
 
fastgtfairlane

fastgtfairlane

Location
Charlotte, NC
i personally like to use the top screw on the headpipe for water tuning because for one its the easiest to get to and injecting the water closest to the engine will have more of an affect on how the pipe comes on which is what its designed to do. using the top screw will give a better bottom end snap and the bottom screw is more for top end power.
 
afraz1er

afraz1er

Location
native idahoan
Another option. This one is good cause the engine and pipe have their own cooling circuits. It requires 3 pissers though.
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V

vcolf

I think 2 dedicated feeds to the exhaust mani makes sense for a ported motor with timing running hot. The routing one dedicated feed to the mani and one to the headpipe makes sense for most mild setups. I have done both and had good results. Curious to hear from others.


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fastgtfairlane

fastgtfairlane

Location
Charlotte, NC
unless youre running constant 8k rpms and running lots of timing advance with lots of compression, or are riding in 95 degree water all the time you dont really need dual cooling to the engine. i run one line to a tee to feed both inlets on the manifold and a tee on the head to a pisser. one line dedicated to the pipe keeps the headpipe temps cooler for better bottom end snap and better tuning capabilities on the pipe. the water temp coming out of the engine pisser should be in the 120-130*F range. a riding buddy runs dual cooling set up like the wammer mod to his engine but uses restrictors to his to get equal flow throughout so his temps are in the range. racers back in the day would run a half inch line from the pump and that was enough for 9k rpm and 220psi of compression
 
R

Rippedbx

Location
Murrieta, Ca
Thanks for all the replies! I'm still learning to ride and I'm certainly not sustaining high RPMs. What are the pros and cons of running your engine cooler vs hotter? Of course there's obvious problems of running too hot but are there problems/benefits of running a little cold?

I'll be riding in everything from 85 degree lake water in summer to upper 50's ocean in the winter. And I don't want to take off the pipe to change cooling lines if I don't need to. Would adding/changing restrictors in the upper cooling lines in winter do anything?
 
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vcolf

assuming your running the wammer mod with single line into the mani, I don’t think you need to do anything. I like the routing BK suggested which is pretty much the wammer mod with 2 water supplies going into the mani. I have not seen huge benefits in running a dedicated line to the bpipe and it makes reverse flushing challenging (for us salt water riders).


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Big Kahuna

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Rippedbx said:
Thanks for all the replies! I'm still learning to ride and I'm certainly not sustaining high RPMs. What are the pros and cons of running your engine cooler vs hotter? Of course there's obvious problems of running too hot but are there problems/benefits of running a little cold?

I'll be riding in everything from 85 degree lake water in summer to upper 50's ocean in the winter. And I don't want to take off the pipe to change cooling lines if I don't need to. Would adding/changing restrictors in the upper cooling lines in winter do anything?
Click to expand...
On my Stock Class SXR but running split cooling I was able to cool the motor and pipe better, The SXR just made a heck of alot of heat, so if the engine bay was cooler I would able to squeeze some extra RPM's. But this on a Kawi vs a SJ. The SJ breathes much better so not as big an issue.
 
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R

Rippedbx

Location
Murrieta, Ca
vcolf said:
assuming your running the wammer mod with single line into the mani, I don’t think you need to do anything. I like the routing BK suggested which is pretty much the wammer mod with 2 water supplies going into the mani. I have not seen huge benefits in running a dedicated line to the bpipe and it makes reverse flushing challenging (for us salt water riders).


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Click to expand...

I'm running the wammer mod with dual cooling (both into the manifold now) and a restrictor jet into the stinger. I'd like to keep dual cooling to be honest. but hoping there's something easy to do limit cooling during winter. Wishful thinking?...
 
V

vcolf

I don’t think you will need to limit cooling at 50s water temp. There are a lot of ways to warm it up if needed, some more risky then others. If you want, you can run smaller pissers and that will slow the cycle of water through the head and pipe. I still don’t see you losing a lot of power at that water temp. Too hot on the other hand can create some interesting events....

The quality of the air and air temp seems to impact my skis performance more than most water temps >50. New a few guys from Europe riding in freezing conditions and would restrict water in for the winter.

BK,
yes the SXR’s run hot. Seen some interesting lites setups over the years. I am running 1/2 from pump to mani and 3/8 to head pipe. I know a few guys running reverse cooling with bringing water into the top of the head. Threadjack!


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