Another Reinforcing Thread

[sqwidget]

I tried searching this, but no luck. So heres my question, I want to use the 8.5oz fiberglass for sure because I will dye it black to make it look like carbon fiber, and I was going to use the 1708 biaxle as well. But I'm thinking that'll be too much. Would using a layer of the 8.5oz and a layer of 10oz be good enough, or should I still use the 1708?

 

[kraqus]

Opinions will run rampant about this subject. I say reinforce for the application.
How hardcore rider are you? Are you gonna trow the ski around a lot? Surf Boat?


Benny

 

[sqwidget]

I'd say that I'm not too hardcore of one, but if I'm gonna do it, I might as well do it right the first time. I'm mostly a flatwater rider, but I do go to Lake Michigan every now and then.

 

[Mark44]

I used 10 oz. on all the skis I have done and it worked out very well.

Mark44

 

[kraqus]

I used 10 oz. on all the skis I have done and it worked out very well.

Mark44

2 layers?

 

[Frosty]

I agree... varying opinions... I used three layers of 8.5 oz on my 1st ski and it worked great.

1st layer over bond line nose to bulkhead - 3 inch wide strip
2nd layer over that - 6" wide strip
3rd layer covered the entire side from bottom to under the hood seal area

I did them all during the same application so that I got the best chemical bond between them and not just a mechanical bond. And give me the most support over the bond line.


my second RN (current ski) i did a 8.5 oz layer over the entire side with a 17 oz layer over that. mine ski is heavily reinforced and still it's cracking a bit in some spots. But I have drilled bottom many times, landed flat upsidedown many times, and slammed on my side many times...

If you plan to ride really hard, and land lots of failed BR's and BF's while trying to learn them, then do it up heavy.

Although I have some bond line cracking, most of my cracks are hoodseal area...

 

[Woody]

Sorry to threadjack, but how much dye is needed to get the fiberglass black (or dark) like you're suggesting you're going to do? I'd like to do that too and then paint the bottom of the hull black because i think it'll be harder to see all the dirt and grime at the bottom of your engine bay

 

[kraqus]

I did them all during the same application so that I got the best chemical bond between them and not just a mechanical bond.

If you plan to ride really hard, and land lots of failed BR's and BF's while trying to learn them, then do it up heavy.

ditto

 

[Frosty]

Sorry to threadjack, but how much dye is needed to get the fiberglass black (or dark) like you're suggesting you're going to do? I'd like to do that too and then paint the bottom of the hull black because i think it'll be harder to see all the dirt and grime at the bottom of your engine bay

I used Rustolium marine grade paint... black... looks good and has not pealed... even when spilling fuel inside the hull with an internal fuel filler.

 

[kraqus]

Sorry to threadjack, but how much dye is needed to get the fiberglass black (or dark) like you're suggesting you're going to do? I'd like to do that too and then paint the bottom of the hull black because i think it'll be harder to see all the dirt and grime at the bottom of your engine bay

Not much, I would say half of small teaspoon or actually less.

Benny

 

[Woody]

I used Rustolium marine grade paint... black... looks good and has not pealed... even when spilling fuel inside the hull with an internal fuel filler.

so instead of using the dye in the resin you're saying you just painted over the whole thing?? i guess i could do that...i guess i was just nervous about the gas spilling like you said.

we normally pop off the one-way valve when fueling up so we can get all the air out of the tank and top it off because we have to make a trek through the inlet to get to where we ride...so i don't spill alot of gas but some definitely spurts out

 

[Mark44]

p

2 layers?

One layer, and a white engine bay is a lot nicer and brighter to work in than a black one. IMO

 

[Frosty]

so instead of using the dye in the resin you're saying you just painted over the whole thing?? i guess i could do that...i guess i was just nervous about the gas spilling like you said.

we normally pop off the one-way valve when fueling up so we can get all the air out of the tank and top it off because we have to make a trek through the inlet to get to where we ride...so i don't spill alot of gas but some definitely spurts out

I would say if you are in the planning stages, then use dye... it was an afterthought for me that's why I painted mine. Like I said though, gas spillage has not been an issue at all... i've spilled fuel a few times and had a fuel filter break spilling fuel everywhere.

 

[Woody]

One layer, and a white engine bay is a lot nicer and brighter to work in than a black one. IMO

yeah...when its white. but in the middle of august after you've gulped up some water a few times and have the motor running with one spark plug out and coagulated gas everywhere...black i think is nicer lol

back on topic...sry for threadjack

when i did my first ski, i did two layers of 17 i believe after putting some cabosil at the bondline to flatten it out. one skinnier layer across it maybe 5" or so then one layer from top to bottom. however, i did have to sand down some of it because my pipe was rubbing up against it badly. i put some turf in there, but it ended up twisting my motor so the coupler was uneven.

 

[sqwidget]

So I guess I might as well just do the 1708 and the 8.5 then. I was also thinking about putting a layer of the 8.5 on the bottom just to tie it all together, but i suppose that I could just paint the bottom also because it seems unessecary to put glass on the bottom of the hull.

 

[Woody]

i guess you can...it'll be adding some weight though.

 

[shawn_NJ]

By the time you do 2 layer of (9oz cloth & 1708 biax). The cost should be close or even less to do one layer of 5.7oz carbon...and the carbon weights ALOT less then +30oz of resin soaked glass. Just my opinion.

 

[Frosty]

It really depends on how you ride, what your riding conditions are (surf/flat) and what you plan to do with your ski... casual riding or very aggressive riding.

I reinforced the bottom, nose, sides, the entire back when I refoamed.

as for weight... it's not really an issue for surf, but flat water is another story. however, you can offset more than enough of the weight gains from reinforcing if you use poly foam in your tray when the time to refoam comes.

 

[kraqus]

By the time you do 2 layer of (9oz cloth & 1708 biax). The cost should be close or even less to do one layer of 5.7oz carbon...and the carbon weights ALOT less then +30oz of resin soaked glass. Just my opinion.

Good point! I am not sure how easy is to lay carbon, I never done it so I chose glass to get some "practice"....

So what about the reinforcement? What is one layer of 5.7 Carbon equals to in glass? Just curious....


Benny

 

[Mark44]

Heck If you you this much material you had better just sell it and buy an SXR?

Mark44