The OEM Kawi dampeners are more durable than the a/m dampeners and recommended for larger power setups, but they are pricey.
Any alternatives to Kawi driveshaft dampner?
- Thread starter Desk_jockey
- Start date
The OEM Kawi dampeners are more durable than the a/m dampeners and recommended for larger power setups, but they are pricey.
Yami-Rider
TigerCraft FV-PRO
- Location
- Texoma
I'm running a very similar setup to you, been running the same WSM dampner for years. OEM is better quailty, but with perfect alignment, should last a long time.
john zigler
Vendor Account
- Location
- wisconsin
What brand damper did you use, do you know?
I have built some high hp Kawis, and Yamaha's using Kawi couplers and never had an issue. I will say I have never used an SBT or cheap damper, so I don't know how they hold up. I too have parted many skis over the years and seen some that are almost plastic like, and am sure these would be junk.
I have built some high hp Kawis, and Yamaha's using Kawi couplers and never had an issue. I will say I have never used an SBT or cheap damper, so I don't know how they hold up. I too have parted many skis over the years and seen some that are almost plastic like, and am sure these would be junk.
- Location
- Detroit metro
I had some time to look at the ski last night and I know why the dampener failed but it leads to more questions . . .
As I had suspected, my alignment up/down and side/side were very close. However, it appears my pto coupler spun off or has been spinning off then back the crank. I found marks on both coupler teeth where they came together. I measured the end gap between the couplers and its at .230 inch but with the pto coupler in an unknown position on the crank, that number does not mean much.
How the hell is my pto coupler unthreading itself from the crank? I didnt have enough time last night to take the engine out and I hurt my lower back so the thought of pulling it out give me pains.
As I had suspected, my alignment up/down and side/side were very close. However, it appears my pto coupler spun off or has been spinning off then back the crank. I found marks on both coupler teeth where they came together. I measured the end gap between the couplers and its at .230 inch but with the pto coupler in an unknown position on the crank, that number does not mean much.
How the hell is my pto coupler unthreading itself from the crank? I didnt have enough time last night to take the engine out and I hurt my lower back so the thought of pulling it out give me pains.
Attachments
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
Those marks are most likely from either hitting bottom, or at one point you had them too close and from jumping, rolling flipping, the couplers were just giving each other "High Fives".......... I have old Westcoast 3 finger couplers (Yamaha based) that I have been running for almost 20 years that have similar marks.............
- Location
- Detroit metro
I am running couch mounts so they are a bit less flexy than SJ mounts. All 4 are in good shape. Checked last night. I am not flipping yet but try to ride it like I stole it. I cannot believe that there is a quarter inch of lateral movement allowing the aluminum to meet.
- Location
- La Crosse, WI on the BIG River
I tried an SBT dampener on my SXR 800. It lasted about two weeks before losing chunks. I then went back to the original OEM, until I got another new OEM. The SBT was visually thinner (1/16"?) and not good rubber like the OEM.
He said he was using OEM.
- Location
- Detroit metro
I wanted to post a followup on this in case it helps anyone out in the future.
I learned a few things. I thought that my PTO coupler was spinning off and on the crank. Yea, that was not happening. The two couplers were "high fiving" each other because of the couch mounts I was running. They are very flexy allowing a ton of engine movement. All are in good shape, but I can take them and move them a ton just in my hand. I also had the end to end distance at about .200 which is a bit much. That extra space was allowing the dampener to move around between the couplers and wear itself out. Add in that I was using a 20 year old dampener and all of the above caused premature wear even with correct alignment.
I have now installed Rhaas SJ mounts that seems to have very little flex compared to the couch mounts. I set the end to end gap to .125. I also installed a new aftermarket dampener which feels slightly stiffer than the old kawi one I was running. I probably wont get to test the ski for a few months because, well, winter in Michigan, but I am pretty confident in my setup now.
I learned a few things. I thought that my PTO coupler was spinning off and on the crank. Yea, that was not happening. The two couplers were "high fiving" each other because of the couch mounts I was running. They are very flexy allowing a ton of engine movement. All are in good shape, but I can take them and move them a ton just in my hand. I also had the end to end distance at about .200 which is a bit much. That extra space was allowing the dampener to move around between the couplers and wear itself out. Add in that I was using a 20 year old dampener and all of the above caused premature wear even with correct alignment.
I have now installed Rhaas SJ mounts that seems to have very little flex compared to the couch mounts. I set the end to end gap to .125. I also installed a new aftermarket dampener which feels slightly stiffer than the old kawi one I was running. I probably wont get to test the ski for a few months because, well, winter in Michigan, but I am pretty confident in my setup now.
- Location
- Valley Springs, CA
I agree, I have used both the blue cold fusion dampener and a cut oem Kawi dampener. Oem lasts much longer in my cold fusion couplers. I usually change them out once a year for insurance. Cold Fusion dampener didnt last but a few months