Any reason an owner would intentionally do this?

My 550 piston port convert to a reed valve (650sx reeds) goki adaport. note: the billet aluminum blocking off the original intake ports and having a reed vavle attachment on the side of the crank.

Upon ceasing/cooking my front cylinder after a carby rebuild and rejet fk up, I decided to bore and hone because it had mad gauges on the front cyl, new pistons and new gaskets, clean up the metal, leave crank case for now.

But i noticed the front cyliner has PORTS like a PISTON PORT engine on my REED VALVE ENGINE.
It also has the two holes drilled into the side top parts of the piston ( as required for a reed vavle- not piston port as it would lose the charge!- all info ive been told and read and just passing it arounf )


My questions are: Is the boost port mod forcing this engines set up to not COOL the front cylinder.
Has someone intentionally ( with reason ) blocked off the cooling to the front cylinder because the boost porting wont work if water is being channlled through its jackets, either directly from the left intake fittng on the exhasut manifold( now blocked off) of

would having the cross over set up, ie, channelling water from the right side to the left, with the boost port mod on the left ( front cyl) be interfearing with the functions of the boost port!




WHAT IS GOING ON WITH THIS ENGINE, CAN I PLEASE GET AN ID ON ITS SET UP AND INSTRUCTONS ON HOW TO COOL IT. i think im almost there with getting it sorted out,


thanks for helping us out again


cheers


josh
 
hey

Here what i already have, if we need specific shots just ask and i can take them, NOte the cylinder is ......at the shop lol.

can take more pics of the bad piston, which is the piston in question, our modified mystery.
Machinist recons the hole were drilled and the ports are factory but who knows.

Recap the questions:

Lets get atleast a few people to confirm 100% its a boost port intended set up.
then,
we can ask,
why is the front cylinder not getting any cooling at all.....
its got dual pumps ( the mod!) yet, one goes to the pipe and one goes to the exhaust mani. Its and intake fitting on the bottom, rear cylinder, up throught the jackets the water flows, out the rear cyl head fitting, to a bypass to the sea.

The front cyl has just a nut for both the intake and outakes ( someone has blocked them up and rigged it like this, WHY????)
 

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exhasut mani, left side blocked off with right side fitting for water intake from pump, ( the other piciture displays the modification of dual intakes from pump- Its the bottom left fitting )
 

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its about time you posted some pix. my bad your bad. thats not a goki reed adaptor, thats much more extensive than anything i've seen on a 550 piston port. somebody actually cut holes in the 550 cases and welded in some sort of intake runners like the 650s to run 650 reeds , intake and carb setup. reminds me of those ADA case mods that turned yamaha 61x cases into half assed 62t cases that used the kawi 750 intake runners, intake, carb setup. what you have there is a lot of work that somebody did to make that 550 something it wasnt, but its experimental technology at best and probably more somebodies frankienstein project. i wouldnt get too happy about what you got there, but it is rare as hens teeth. not that its good or desirable and might be one reason you got it in the first place. check out this crazy 440 cylinder i found in a boat i bought DSCF0077.JPG DSCF0074.JPG DSCF0076.JPG
 
fk.


i just wana ride mannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn
if this is rare for the US idk what its doing here.


okay, its better i know whats going on. tbh, it seems quiet ligit the mod and whole thing, i suppose tho.
Starting a jetski in a trailer is one thing, and riding it for a few hours reliably is a totaly diiffernt thing.

thats is a pretty crazy cylinder, its funny, before i bought this i knew nothing really about mechanics, electrics, composites and everthing in between. I would not trade this knowledge back for the 3000.


heres hoping i get it runnning right, had some fun with it,


as for the cooling buzzard, can i run water through the front cylinder ??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
 
looks like the front piston is a left over from when they ran a goki reed adapter on the cylinder.the holes will also work with the case induction setup but both pistons should be the same.
the fingers cut in the cylinder on the intake side feed from the 2 holes almost like a boost port,
it would be easy to recut holes in the new pistons as long as the position on the skirt is the same you'll be good to go.
you have cooling to both sides of cylinder already.the single inlet in the exhaust manifold feeds both cylinders but i would recommend running both pump cooling lines to ex manifold then feed water to the pipe from the head.
the post 1986 cast iron cylinders .don't like heavy porting without seizing so good cooling is mandatory
 
Last edited:
cheers restosud
Your've put my mind @ ease.

just curious tho, how exactly would you route water out?

do you effect the engine by how you route water? pressure?

ideally id like to utilize 2 pissers, one if its truly better. ( i already ordered one of ebay)
 
both cooling lines from pump go to exhaust manifold.all cooling water comes out of the top of head on carb side.one line goes to exhaust,one line goes to pisser.if still too much pressure you can add a 3rd outlet on head for a second pisser.
 
Well, i paid 900 for both the ski and trailer, which is like paying us 400-450 US.I rode it once as it started up when i picked it up 4 years ago, ran it for 60 seconds then it died ( turns out there was a structural puncture in the hull bottom, filling the engine bay to half ! was fk) anyways, i got home, must of ran it somehow because i didnt tough it for 4 years lolololol jut left it outside, my mums backyard had nearly claimed it untill i cut it out jungle. To my surpise, it turned over, not like my ceased 750 :)

So, with a motivation to start jetskiing again, i got it home and pulled it apart slowly learning. Yes i have a mad tool set now, and yes im broke, but its great knowledge.


Anyways, i patched the hole, built a bilge set up, went to the river, and it would only go 30% power, just above idle.
Plus the pinion gear stuck so i had to get it apart....salt water.

Fixed startor, replaced head pipe gasket and rebuilt the carbs ( i learnt they like to be CLEAN- especaillly dual 38 round bodys.....)



So i had it ready to tune ( note: no cooling to front cylinder ).
I found that about 2 turns out on the low and 1.8 on the high was good to get it started and some wot. ( first time tuning anything in my life- getting practise now with weedwhacker )

But i cooked the piston and scratched up the cylinder, getting 150 in the rear and 10 psi in the front.

here we are,

NEW parts for engine
- bore and hone 76.5mm
-wiseco pistons dual ring reed valve
cosmetic gaskets
head pipe gasket
some replaced crimps on wires


I understand the crankcase needs a "clean up" as it said on the wiseco website

whats the deal here for me, as i wont clean it up, i wana fix up and list for a good price with wanting to ride for a good 6 months of sun now.

but thats the history of my ownership
 
Location
usa
If you do run dual cooling on the exhaust manifold, be sure to run no less than .008in piston to wall clearance with Wiseco's and cast iron cylinder.
Cold cast iron cylinder and wiseco forged piston don't play well when making power.
In my old race skis we run almost .010 with the piston clearance for closed course racing with dual cooling for wide open running.
 
awesome info,
im waiting on the pistons now then ill go in to the shop as he wants to fit them. so .010 is perfect for this set up? anyone else agree with this?
I will be WOT alot......


cheers dartman


keep the info a flow
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
depending on the portwork, WOT may just cause you to burn up some pistons......... Honestly, I would find you a good set of Stock Cylinders and have them ported by somebody who knows what they are doing. This way you know what your doing..........
 
Location
usa
run the clearance wiseco recommends and warm it gently before any wot.

Wiseco's recommended clearance is for STOCK engine guidelines...so I'm going to disagree on following Wiseco's spec's for a hi-performance application using dual cooling.
This is based off of making power.
 
thanks for all the input,

lets remember, this engine needs alot of lean way, since its crazy and im inexperienced.

Im liking Dartmans observations. Dartman, any reason restosud would recomend stock settings?



PS. just bought Braided ignition leads, nom nom nom, cant wait to crimp......... .... ? :) ...... ?? :0
 
Sorry,

Id like to get some info on the crank clean up, lets assume it hassent had one in a while, When i looked at the ball bearings ( first time seeing them )
I noticed the rear cylinder has rust, like most of the balls had light to medium stage 1 rust but the front cylinders bearng were clean and looked fine.
What happens if I ride it with out "cleaning up" the crank as wiseco recommends when you hit the 76.5mm bore
 
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