I just picked up a b-pipe and I'm getting ready to install it. I realize jetting is specific to elevation but how about the b-pipe? I'd like to have my pipe setup more for bottom end if this is possible. Any recommendations on where to set the pipe at? I'm at around 4600' of elevation if it matters.. Thx
Freestyle B-pipe setup?
- Thread starter jjk8
- Start date
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
theres no set tuning settings that work on every ski... its really a trial and error thing so it could be different on every ski.. it even depends on how you set up the cooling lines too... its recommended to run a flow control valve and a restrictor in the bypass line to the stinger to keep the head pipe pressurized for better tuning ability with the screws.. i run dual cooling on my ski with a water line going straight to the pipe.. many guys run the inlet to the bottom of the pipe to keep the head pipe with water.. ive seen mainly the bottom screw opened up for bottom end... the purpose of the screws is to be able to dry the pipe out just enough to not melt anything... the best way to tune the pipe is to do a WOT run for a bit and immediately shut the ski off and sprinkle water on the first few inches of the chamber... you want to dry the pipe out enough so that the pipe barely sizzles after a good WOT run
- Location
- Pueblo, CO
Without knowing what other mods you have, it's tough to tell you what to do. And are you asking about carb jetting specs or water screw specs? Both?
I have found that even at altitude, Factory pipe's jetting specs are a good starting point; definitely a bit rich = safe. Lean down from there...
As for the water screws, fastgtfairlane is correct. Once you get it to sizzle, you can experiment with putting more water back in at the bottom screw or at the top screw and see if the bottom-end improves.
I have found that even at altitude, Factory pipe's jetting specs are a good starting point; definitely a bit rich = safe. Lean down from there...
As for the water screws, fastgtfairlane is correct. Once you get it to sizzle, you can experiment with putting more water back in at the bottom screw or at the top screw and see if the bottom-end improves.
I was asking about the pipe screws(water screws), but I'll take anything anybody has as far as recommendations. I haven't had much luck on getting feedback on the carbs for elevation. The only mods I've had done are milled head (approx 155psi), msd enhancer, prop and intake grate. I ride between 4500-6000 of elevation. If you're riding in Pueblo, it looks like we might be fairly close in elevation. Thanks..
Last edited:
Great feedback! I'll give it a shot.. ThX!!!
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
haha no problem! i just got done tuning my factory pipe on my ski..its not a superjet but a 550 with a pjs engine and i highly recommend dual cooling with a seperate line for the pipe.. you can really feel the engine come on the pipe when its adjusted... getting the flow control valve and a restrictor in the bypass line allows for very fine tuning.. i have a home depot water valve as my restrictor so i can really fine tune the pipe.. plus getting cooler water from the pump instead of from the engine allows you to dry the pipe a little more too and allows the pipe to heat and cool rapidly to get great bottom end and top end performance... when tuned properly, the factory pipes are really hard to beat
DAG
Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Most people will say sizzle the first few inches of the chamber for tpo end. A cooler pipe returns a better low end signal. I ran my pipe ran better warm with a ported 760 than it did when it sizzled.
chriselmore_1
high on resin
- Location
- san jose ca
we run the top and middle screw closed. Bottom open 1/8th to 1/4 turn open. Just enough water to keep the coupler from melting. And the stinger completely dry. But you have to use a cut down stock exhaust hose from chamber to wb. The factorypipe one will melt. I got the best throttle response from that. Hits,super hard