Super Jet Bad ground cable leads to more issues

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Half flip95

Formerly pondracer95
Location
Lake Havasu City AZ
I'm looking for a list of different things to check before I make the haul out to the lake this weekend.

I went to start the ski on the launch ramp last weekend and no spin click or anything. jiggled soem things around and found that my Rad Dudes Battery Cable came apart where it grounds on the engine. for a quick fix I stripped the end of it and wrapped it around the bedplate bolt and she was good. rode for like 30 mins and parked it. when i went to fire it again... nothing. stole a oem ground cable off my raider and she was going again. did good for 10 minutes then it started doing something that felt like misfiring when i would get on the gas hard. changed plugs and it did the same thing. 5 mins later it felt completely dead on one cylinder. I checked for spark and it looked red /orange where i think it should have been white. got it home and hit the starter in the dark garage and could see light flickering down by the starter. I am thinking that the new ground cable isnt grounding proper and causing weak spark? i did install it under the pipe without looking... something to take into consideration is stat at some point during the swaping i did actually cross the ground cable with the pos battery terminal for a split second, it melted the cable end pretty quick. This is on a flame TL. I will def start with cleaning up the ground cable connection, but could there be something else?

Thanks
 
Quinc

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
Check that the power wire that goes to your starter is tight and in good shape.

I have these on the ends of my ground cables. I hammer them on then use shrink tubing on them. When you bolt the cable to your engine make sure the surface area and the bolt is clean.
907825_primary.jpg
 
Harbor

Harbor

Location
Stockton
Did ski run and you rode it after you crossed the battery b- with b+ ?

The reason I ask is this happens at work on Late model cars sometimes, customers and sales men usually, but my point is it fries at least one computer on the car usually.

I would also be sure to isolate that sparking you saw by the starter further, is it the cable like you mentioned or a defective and or loose starter etc.
 
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H

Half flip95

Formerly pondracer95
Location
Lake Havasu City AZ
yes it did run good for a few minutes until it started missing then dead cylinder.

just did a comp test and got 190/190. also replaced the battery leads with some of the copper style above ^^^. reassembled with lock tite and lock washers. checked spark and it was the bright white / blue. did a start and she popped off like she should, both cylinders firing. not that limp dry start it was doing before.

anything else i should check
 
Quinc

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
Harbor said:
Did ski run and you rode it after you crossed the battery b- with b+ ?

The reason I ask is this happens at work on Late model cars sometimes, customers and sales men usually, but my point is it fries at least one computer on the car usually.

I would also be sure to isolate that sparking you saw by the starter further, is it the cable like you mentioned or a defective and or loose starter etc.
Click to expand...


I did this last season, new battery and +/- where on opposite sides.. Anyway all it did was fry the fuse inside the box. *Thankfully*
 
Vumad

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Quinc said:
Check that the power wire that goes to your starter is tight and in good shape.

I have these on the ends of my ground cables. I hammer them on then use shrink tubing on them. When you bolt the cable to your engine make sure the surface area and the bolt is clean.
907825_primary.jpg
Click to expand...

A good set of crimpers close these right up. About $15-20 at the autoparts store. Skip the hammer.
(They look like this... http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/dewalt-crimping-plier)

The picture in the link is copper. You should use tinned copper. It's the same thing but coated in tin. Tinned wires and connectors better resist corrosion.

I also use silicone when I make my cables. I put a bead of silicone around the exposed piece of wire between the connector and the wire covering. I shrink my shrink wrap from the this point out both directions. The silicone fills all good spaces the shrink wrap misses.
 
Fro Diesel

Fro Diesel

creative control
Location
Kzoo
Those are not the right crimps either. The link vumad shared are good for smaller wire 18-14 but for the 8gauge lug shown in pic use these.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
 
Quinc

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
Vumad said:
A good set of crimpers close these right up. About $15-20 at the autoparts store. Skip the hammer.
(They look like this... http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/dewalt-crimping-plier)

The picture in the link is copper. You should use tinned copper. It's the same thing but coated in tin. Tinned wires and connectors better resist corrosion.

I also use silicone when I make my cables. I put a bead of silicone around the exposed piece of wire between the connector and the wire covering. I shrink my shrink wrap from the this point out both directions. The silicone fills all good spaces the shrink wrap misses.
Click to expand...
JetManiac said:
Best to solder terminal after crimping if you want the connection to last like oem.
Click to expand...


Y'all need to hit the gym more or get a bigger hammer. :cool:
6.jpg
 
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