Baller on a budget RIP

[Ducky]

I can’t even find a used b pipe for sale, I bought the rad dudes exhaust tube but found out it’s too small for the metal thru hull tubing on the rip so another thing on the list to figure out is how to make that work

I used a random RRP pole tube i had lying around and a couple rubber couplings for my exhaust in my rip.

 

[ClumpDigger]

Update: life hasn’t been too kind to ya boi lately so not much progress has been made. Motor is almost all slapped together, waiting on a cold fusion alignment tool to get the pump lined up. Planned on doing a “cheap ass trim” but now I’m kind of running into a roadblock with that. I think I’m just gonna buy the RRP straight pull trim cable from jet maniac and find a way to connect it to the oem (waveraider) nozzle I got off eBay.

 

[ClumpDigger]

Motor is all together, just need to slap the 64x stator cover on and make a plug to block off where the old stator leads went.

The Ebox is all together just need to change an ignition coil lead to be grounded in the box and run a 12v wire to power the zeeltronic cdi

Pump is also all together minus the trim I’m still working on. I got the cold fusion alignment tool just need to look have a little more free time to get everything mounted centered and aligned in there permanently.

The last piece of the puzzle is the exhaust system, I cannot find a reasonably priced used mod b pipe or lay down pipe. Been emailing factory pipe for about 2 months now and gave them a call today (no answer message left) I plan on giving it another month or so of searching and when it gets closer to the lakes being rideable I might just pay the extra money and buy from riva or blowsion.

I’m sure I’ll run into more fun, expensive problems here soon.

 

[ClumpDigger]

THE DROUGHT IS OVA! found a used b pipe with carbon chamber and a waterbox from a guy on here, so hopefully now ill have all the pieces to my house within the next week to start laying everything in the hull and map out where to epoxy these hull hooks down.

Is there a certain order to tackle these so im not lifting the motor in and out a hundred times? im assuming you start with the pump/midshaft and when they are perfect then the motor goes in and then you can see where to anchor down your gas tank, pipe, waterbox but please correct me if im wrong or have any tips/tricks. ya boi over here is just guessing.

Does anyone know what size T bolt clamps to use for the big rubber b pipe coupler? My research tells me its a 4" coupling but does that take into account how much it will expand when slipped over the b pipe? the 4" clamp im looking at on ebay can go from 4.09-4.41 and is 3/4" wide does that sound like it will work? I just dont want the sucker to blow off and sink me so i figured t bolts are the way to go over hose clamps.

I got a new job where i get to cruise on a computer for most of the work day so unfortunately for you, ill be creeping around here more often asking stupid questions.

 

[Quinc]

start with the pump and go from there. Watch all the build a bob videos.

 

[Sanoman]

Always think 5 steps ahead when mocking up on a build

 

[ClumpDigger]

Broke off a bolt in one of the threaded inserts for the pump bolts how fricked am I? Once I get it out I assume the insert is destroyed so can I heli coil or drill and tap? Would these be the same as superjet hull inserts? Real bummer for sure. Here’s a motor sweet motor pic though.

 

[Quinc]

Helicoil it and it should be fine. Make sure and use stainless helicoil.

 

[ClumpDigger]

Ended up completely replacing that pump mount insert since I knocked it loose out of its home while extracting. So that was fun but the pump and mid shaft are in and aligned now and I have a couple more questions for you experts.

1. When my nozzle is turned straight my Handle bar is slightly turned so that the right grip is down further than the left,(so I have plenty of “right” not much “left”) Is there like an extension I need to make it straight or something? I don’t think I have enough adjustment to make it straight from the parts I have here.

2. There is a barbed fitting on this RRP water box. What is that for? And is this the correct orientation for the water box to be sitting?

3. Not exactly sure what plug I need with the ADA head, I just know i need a resistor plug. Would BR8ES be the correct reach for my application?

Any input is appreciated thx

 

[Quinc]

Do you have your steering cable in backward? You can also get an extension or two if needed. Mcmaster has them.

 

[khaos]

Start a little savings account to replace the crank. I know one guy who has had good luck with the SBT's. Not starting a hate thread hijack it just is what it is.

 

[ClumpDigger]

Do you have your steering cable in backward? You can also get an extension or two if needed. Mcmaster has them.

Thanks! Got one ordered that I think should work. Pretty sure it’s in right because it’s got like a notch in the cable for the holder. I’ll take some pics tonight to confirm.

Start a little savings account to replace the crank. I know one guy who has had good luck with the SBT's. Not starting a hate thread hijack it just is what it is.

How exactly do they fail? Are their bearings junk or something? And what kind of crank should I go with after If it does?

 

[Big Kahuna]

Thanks! Got one ordered that I think should work. Pretty sure it’s in right because it’s got like a notch in the cable for the holder. I’ll take some pics tonight to confirm.







How exactly do they fail? Are their bearings junk or something? And what kind of crank should I go with after If it does?

Both ends have notches. But one end is longer than the other. Not gonna go back and read, if you have trim, you have to have an extension.

 

[khaos]

... How exactly do they fail? Are their bearings junk or something? And what kind of crank should I go with after If it does?

OEM Cranks are solid. Get one and if you have any doubt send it to get it rebuilt by an actual crank shop.

Your mileage may vary and to be fair they pump parts out like a waterfall so there's bound to be some bad ones. I'd rather pay a little more than risk the aggravation or the season. A few will say they have had good luck. There were a few seals installed backwards. There were cranks welded together. Wrong bearings. Broken webs. This is just cranks, we are not even talking about the need to line bore, port match and replace sleeves in pairs. Cheap parts and low QA seem to be the consensus of the issues. I have read that they are designed to last for the warranty period.

If you get to an 'official' type person from a magazine or web site you should check the list of advertisers and corporate alliances before you give too much weight to the opinion. #FollowTheMoney If I were accepting SBT parts for my raffle or give-aways, advertising money for my site or magazine, or in a preferred alliance I wouldn't want to say anything that might stop or slow the flow. This is not to say that it doesn't or can't happen. There are a lot of really great ppl smarter than me in this community who tell it like it is all the bs be damned. Thank god for them.

Sorry for the stupid wall of text.

 

[Quinc]

I am a believer in the SBT cranks. Not sure about the rest of there junk but the cranks have been great on my 701-771 builds.

 

[Storbeck]

I have an SBT crank that has given me no problems, but I've only had it for a single season so far. I was skeptical but went for it based on the good word from the Maniac. I wouldn't get pretty much anything else from SBT, so there is that.

 

[ClumpDigger]

Finally got her together and water tested this weekend! seems to run great. Unfortunately snapped the steering cable on the second day and for some reason my stop switch no longer works but other than that it went great! its a pretty weird ski to ride, but looking forward to learn on it.

 

[ClumpDigger]

Hello again bro’s. Happy to report basically all of the weird bugs have been worked out and the ski is pretty damn peppy and has been reliable (only took like the whole summer, better late than never I guess) unfortunately haven’t been able to get a lot of solid backflip practice as my stoopid jetboat keeps breaking and I don’t think a flat water flip would be possible with my set up and current skillz. 180s are fun but who spends $6500 to do 180s lol. Which brings my next question to anyone who is following this thread still, if I bring my WDK Rip to the surf will I have a bad time? I’m not too knowledgeable of AM hulls or hull design in general. I know it’s a flat water hull but what makes a hull “bad” for surf? I assume it’s from how short it is which makes it like unstable but it’s real wide at the same time? It would be between the Rip and a 550 if I’m able to bring a second ski to the surf.

 

[Roseand]

Is it ideal? Maybe not. Will you have a blast? Probably. Neither of those skis are ideal for big surf but I think you'll have a better time on the rip as long as nothing happens that makes it sink!
I love slashing and carving waves with my rip.

 

[SmittySX]

Hello again bro’s. Happy to report basically all of the weird bugs have been worked out and the ski is pretty damn peppy and has been reliable (only took like the whole summer, better late than never I guess) unfortunately haven’t been able to get a lot of solid backflip practice as my stoopid jetboat keeps breaking and I don’t think a flat water flip would be possible with my set up and current skillz. 180s are fun but who spends $6500 to do 180s lol. Which brings my next question to anyone who is following this thread still, if I bring my WDK Rip to the surf will I have a bad time? I’m not too knowledgeable of AM hulls or hull design in general. I know it’s a flat water hull but what makes a hull “bad” for surf? I assume it’s from how short it is which makes it like unstable but it’s real wide at the same time? It would be between the Rip and a 550 if I’m able to bring a second ski to the surf.

I brought my 760cc RIP to wavedaze back in the day. I’m sure i was getting laughed at and hated on for riding it in the surf but it sure was fun while it lasted. DO IT.