Barbie Car Blaster

Made some progress on the SMC “accessory parts”. Stripped, sanded, primed, sanded, primed, sanded, sealed. Used alkyd based primer as I think it will adhere decent to the gel coat. From what I could find, the acrylic primers would be attacked by the styrene in the gel coat. Hoping alkyd based primers will have decent compatibility and that the primer sealer will keep the mold release agents in the SMC from interfering with the gel coat.

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I’m estimating 24 hrs of labor remaining.
 
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Well I got the gel sprayed on the accessory parts and it seems to be curing evenly. I think time will be the ultimate test of my primer’s effectiveness.

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I also got the mid shaft rebuilt, the housing was in great shape, so just new bearing and seals. Shaft pressed back to the factory depth.

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I have been told that keeping the bottom orange peel will help with grip. I am planning to keep the bottom orange peel and cut the vertical sides to gloss finish so they take decals properly. Feedback on this approach would be beneficial.
I’ve heard similar things . I’ve heard sanding the bottom and truck bed coating . All of which I have no clue as to why it would help . In my mind I always thought the smoother the better on the bottom.
Either way loving the build and the constant updates !
 
I'll start sanding the bits that will be gloss over my lunch break here in a moment. Trying very hard to mute my excitement so I don't get carried away and go too deep with the initial cut. I'm using 320 and 400 to start, even though 220 may be the best first stage... just to give myself a bit more forgiveness on over-sanding. The curves and edges everywhere make me nervous about burning though. I was considering a guide coat, but with a headlamp I seem to have pretty good vision on the levels. Trying to keep it slow and steady. I have about 6 hours free tonight so we will see how much progress I can make.
 
Wow Man thats impressive! So much sanding! Did the M67 remove the 1500 grit sanding marks ok or was is a lot of work? I have never used it before. Hopefully you have a 3in DA as I bet with all the curves it would want to stall. :(

Cant wait to see it outside in the sun!
 
I have a 5” DA, but I adjusted my pressure on the finicky bits to keep the foam moving and the heat up. Not perfect but it seems to have worked. It’s a strong gloss, and the medium cutting foam pad seems to have done a good job clearing after the 1500 grit. Pretty aggressive. I had a few deeper 400 grit scratches that I missed and it almost blended those by itself.

I should have used a guide coat. I would have cut a bit deeper on the 320 if I had. There are some orange peel “pores” here and there that I didn’t cut out properly. That said, I’m happy with it as my main concern was burning through the gel. These projects are mainly for learning, and now I know for next time.
 
Wow Man thats impressive! So much sanding! Did the M67 remove the 1500 grit sanding marks ok or was is a lot of work? I have never used it before. Hopefully you have a 3in DA as I bet with all the curves it would want to stall. :(

Cant wait to see it outside in the sun!
Also worth noting that the M67 wasn’t my first choice necessarily. I just had it on hand from other projects… figured it would work and I could save the $50 and a trip to the store.
 
Made good progress tonight putting a lot of the hull parts back on. Fittings, seat hardware, handles, hood hardware, etc. I used a bit of 3M 4200FC on all of them… may be a pain if I disassemble again at some point, but I really wanted things to stay tight until then.

I also put my new pump alignment tool to use and got my mid shaft back in.

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I have a 5” DA, but I adjusted my pressure on the finicky bits to keep the foam moving and the heat up. Not perfect but it seems to have worked. It’s a strong gloss, and the medium cutting foam pad seems to have done a good job clearing after the 1500 grit. Pretty aggressive. I had a few deeper 400 grit scratches that I missed and it almost blended those by itself.

I should have used a guide coat. I would have cut a bit deeper on the 320 if I had. There are some orange peel “pores” here and there that I didn’t cut out properly. That said, I’m happy with it as my main concern was burning through the gel. These projects are mainly for learning, and now I know for next time.
If it cuts through 1500 and polishes out nicely that is pretty good!

here is always a spot that gets missed, and then it drives me crazy :D

Made good progress tonight putting a lot of the hull parts back on. Fittings, seat hardware, handles, hood hardware, etc. I used a bit of 4200 on all of them… may be a pain if I disassemble again at some point, but I really wanted things to stay tight until then.

I also put my new pump alignment tool to use and got my mid shaft back in.

Hey you managed to get a real pump alignment tool! I tried the Chinese copy as everyone was out of stock of the cold fusion and I needed one. The dowel locator pin holes were a bit to big making it not very useful.
I see you have an automotive type hoses clamp. I would avoid using those. I had those exact ones on my ski last year and the one on the bottom of the manifold came loose from the vibration. Someone else was on my ski and didnt notice no water out of the bypass. Caused me to have to do a new top end as it overheated so badly. Crimp on Oetiker clamps for me this time. :D

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If it cuts through 1500 and polishes out nicely that is pretty good!

here is always a spot that gets missed, and then it drives me crazy :D



Hey you managed to get a real pump alignment tool! I tried the Chinese copy as everyone was out of stock of the cold fusion and I needed one. The dowel locator pin holes were a bit to big making it not very useful.
I see you have an automotive type hoses clamp. I would avoid using those. I had those exact ones on my ski last year and the one on the bottom of the manifold came loose from the vibration. Someone else was on my ski and didnt notice no water out of the bypass. Caused me to have to do a new top end as it overheated so badly. Crimp on Oetiker clamps for me this time. :D

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Good eye. :) Oetikers are in the mail. I only had 3/4” on hand.
 
A bit of progress on the exterior parts. I learned a hard lesson wrapping the seat. I centered the new cover all up and started from the front and worked my way back…. It stretched more than I anticipated, so the curve in the back ended up with too much material. Cant get it properly tight without starting over, and there’s a decent chance it would be damaged beyond repair after pulling all the hundred or so staples. It’s my first attempt at upholstery on this style of seat, so I will take it as a learning experience and redo it later when I have the cash. It’s “good enough” as it is.


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I love the visual effect of the 1” molding on the bond line. Need to install the chin pad and get the molding tucked properly.

On track to be on the water next weekend.
 

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Wow, love how you were able to spray the polyester gel coat. I want to know how it adheres to the SMC and what you did to prepare the SMC for it to adhere. Because I would like to do the same to my wife's X2 while the engine is out. If you get a chance, please post up the specifics of your gun, and your air compressor. Also if you could recommend a faring filler for filling the deep scratches. Thank you for posting this thread. It is helpful to me and will be helpful to others.
 
Wow, love how you were able to spray the polyester gel coat. I want to know how it adheres to the SMC and what you did to prepare the SMC for it to adhere. Because I would like to do the same to my wife's X2 while the engine is out. If you get a chance, please post up the specifics of your gun, and your air compressor. Also if you could recommend a faring filler for filling the deep scratches. Thank you for posting this thread. It is helpful to me and will be helpful to others.
It will take time to get a review of my methods effectiveness for the gel coat adhering on the SMC parts, but I will be sure to report back... I expect it might take a while to show any issues if it isn't quite right.

I'm not a chemist so I may be way off base... I had HARD time finding advice on coating SMC with gel coat. Every post I found just seems to come down to "it isn't worth the hassle, paint it" instead of telling a person how to do it. And well, I'm stubborn and have to learn the hard way I guess! So I took a lot of information from a lot of different sources in an attempt to create a method with a high chance of success. Boat forums, youtube, RC boat forums, corvette forums, ski forums, etc. I tried to verify every "fact" I found with more than one source. That said, here is what I did on the SMC:

I sanded the SMC parts down to the bare material. I filled any cracks and low spots I found with West System epoxy, and then sanded flat. (Any cracks were also epoxied on the back side with reinforcement material.) I cleaned the entire part with acetone. I used Rust-Oleum Filler Primer over the SMC and Epoxy in two coats, sanding after each coat had dried for 24 hours with 220. I finished with Rust-oleum primer sealer, in the hopes that the "sealer" would help prevent the leak-through of the SMC mold release agent that I read to be the main culprit with gelcoat adherence to SMC. Both these products are alkyd based, which I selected because I read that "An alkyd is a polyester resin modified by the addition of fatty acids and other components". Given that, I assumed that polyester would have a good chance of bonding to alkyd paint, and I had found some reading material that supports that conclusion. I used the TDS for the products to verify their base material was alkyd. There was also a Rust-Oleum Marine Topside Primer that was alkyd based, but I couldn't get it on short notice. Once the primer sealer was cured, I roughed it up a little with 220, but just a LITTLE. (I had also read that the mold release agent is brought to the surface of the SMC by heat, so excessive sanding was to be avoided.) Then I cleaned the parts with acetone again and sprayed gel the same as I did with all the fiberglass parts.

In terms of spraying the gel coat, I used an amazon HVLP gun with a 2.0mm nozzle.
Spray Gun I Used

I had a lot of help from some GREAT YouTube channels:
- Amazing video for applying gel by hand, with amazing details on how to cut and polish the cured product: Refit and Sail gel coat video
- Great video for core concepts of gel coat as a coating and fairing material. By far the most valuable video I watched: Fish Bump TV Secrets of gel coat
- SUPER useful video for understanding gun setup specifically: The Composite Shop: HVLP Gun Setup

I have a 20 gallon compressor that does about 6cfm at 60PSI (the regulated pressure that I sprayed at). The gun uses about 7CFM, and so I restricted the flow to the gun slightly (bottom knob by the supply on my gun). If I took a 10 second break every 30 seconds of spraying, I always stayed at or above 60 psi. My compressor has a 25ft hose leading to a copper "air dryer" and a 25ft hose leading to my gun, which had the water separator on it as well. The first 25ft hose can be placed in a bucket of ice water if moisture to the guns separator looks excessive. It never did.

That is the details that I can recall. Tape/cover/mask anything that you value in the room that you're painting in... Using two filtered box fans for inlet and outlet air, and wetting the floor of my workspace seemed to keep the ambient air pretty clean and the space ventilated. If there are other specific questions, I can try to answer them as well.
 
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