Beginner Backflips, is this Normal ?

[hornedogg79]

Your pole hoses should extend to the bottom of the hull too. I had xscream pole hoses and 3 hood hoses and could make my Chan disappear underwater then resurface ready to rip. Do you have a coupler cover installed? All mesh flame arrestors hold water. Screens clear out quick. If you land at 3/4 rotation.. Hit the throttle and hold on. Ski will straighten up underneath you. You also get bonus points for shooting a fountain straight up in the air as you go under.

 

[mikesx]

Your pole hoses should extend to the bottom of the hull too. I had xscream pole hoses and 3 hood hoses and could make my Chan disappear underwater then resurface ready to rip. Do you have a coupler cover installed? All mesh flame arrestors hold water. Screens clear out quick. If you land at 3/4 rotation.. Hit the throttle and hold on. Ski will straighten up underneath you. You also get bonus points for shooting a fountain straight up in the air as you go under.

Yes , full length RRP hose thru ATP pole bracket, maybe 3” up into pole tubes, the other end makes it down the rocker to my tank. Coupler cover installed. After today I now think something else is going on. Without flopping or dipping boat first 1/4- 1/3 throttle is blubbery, after that cleans up and is tough to hold onto. The initial blubbering started with landing upside down but has now progressed to a constant. Compression test shows 200 psi both cylinders. That’s as far as I’ve got.

 

[Jcary85]

Yes , full length RRP hose thru ATP pole bracket, maybe 3” up into pole tubes, the other end makes it down the rocker to my tank. Coupler cover installed. After today I now think something else is going on. Without flopping or dipping boat first 1/4- 1/3 throttle is blubbery, after that cleans up and is tough to hold onto. The initial blubbering started with landing upside down but has now progressed to a constant. Compression test shows 200 psi both cylinders. That’s as far as I’ve got.

Has temperature changed? Wet or dry pipe?

 

[mikesx]

Has temperature changed? Wet or dry pipe?

Not really . Hot air 90+/- , 70 water. Ran fine previously in these conditions. And I run the pipe dry, no spray bar. And I did roll the boat clock wise . I also purposely inverted the boat in shallow water to see how much water would enter , held it that way 1 min, righted boat, had maybe an inch of water in bilge. Was kind of impressed, I expected more.

 

[Jcary85]

Not really . Hot air 90+/- , 70 water. Ran fine previously in these conditions. And I run the pipe dry, no spray bar.

I could run down a list of stuff to check but I guess look it over. If u don’t find anything let us know.

Check for… exhaust leak, fuel pump issue, clogged return jet, slipped stator, bad plugs, bad coil, carbs out of sync, something getting too hot and steaming, carb screws out of adjustment by accident, needle/seat stuck open, water leak spraying in carbs. Idk there’s prob some other stuff

 

[mikesx]

I could run down a list of stuff to check but I guess look it over. If u don’t find anything let us know.

Check for… exhaust leak, fuel pump issue, clogged return jet, slipped stator, bad plugs, bad coil, carbs out of sync, something getting too hot and steaming, carb screws out of adjustment by accident, needle/seat stuck open, water leak spraying in carbs. Idk there’s prob some other stuff

Yeah definitely gonna have to do some checking. I did flop it good a couple of times, just strange how it progressed from an intermittent to a constant. I did the quick and dirty stuff at the river, changed plugs, confirmed both low and high screw positions. I actually put them back to what the card that came with them 1.5 H 1.5 L, and wound up turning them back where I had them when setup was new, 1.25 H ,1 L. Still has that 1/3-1/4 gurgle. After that , like nothing is wrong at all. Maybe a bad reed?

 

[mikesx]

Figured it out. Hard to see in pics , bad orings, 40 gallons run time. Replaced them , returned High & Low screws to where they were when motor was zero time. Boat rips again, will run upside down, can reboard after rolling upright CLOCKWISE without having to restart. Can pull me up from laying over 90 degrees. The onset of this was so gradual at first I was able to tune it out with mixture screws. Should of been my first clue. Big Thanks to @Flash-FX for learning me quickly about orings, DOESN'T MATTER WHAT THEY LOOK LIKE, REPLACE THEM !!! Here's some pics.

 

[mikesx]

Want to get some opinions on this. I did have bad dome rings and since replacing the boat is running great. The front and rear plugs still look different though. Is this normal? The rear plug always looks wet, like an oily wet, not a water wet. I do have rear mix screws turned in more than front. Does the PFP factor into this ( rear exh runner is straighter shot into cyl than front) ? How much different can/will you adjust mix screws? The plug on the right is the rear. It's hard to tell from pic but plug on right is actually wet, not powdery like front.

 

[Harbor]

I had a similar situation, rear plug and piston wet and noticed my rear cylinder was running cooler than the front by 8 to 14 degrees, I forget exactly.. I spent a lot of time trying to isolate why…( thought it was the dribble out the rear carbs bomb sight causing it). Eventually I spun the carbs around on the speed plate and found the cold cylinder followed the carb, and the carb now on rear cylinder dribbled out the bomb sight when it didn’t wren mounted on front cylinder… That told me the fuel was entering below the throttle plate and cooling the cylinder, ( fuel exiting the idle circuit was not even in each carb for the same amount of (low screw turns out from closed)… so I retuned it, dealing with each cylinder and carb on there own…. It didn’t take much, maybe 1/8 turn or so in to get that rear cylinder to heat up…but I don’t remember the exact amount it needed..

I eventually found some uneven discoloration in the idle adjusters (low screws) seat between the 2 carbs..

 

[mikesx]

I had a similar situation, rear plug and piston wet and noticed my rear cylinder was running cooler than the front by 8 to 14 degrees, I forget exactly.. I spent a lot of time trying to isolate why…( thought it was the dribble out the rear carbs bomb sight causing it). Eventually I spun the carbs around on the speed plate and found the cold cylinder followed the carb, and the carb now on rear cylinder dribbled out the bomb sight when it didn’t wren mounted on front cylinder… That told me the fuel was entering below the throttle plate and cooling the cylinder, ( fuel exiting the idle circuit was not even in each carb for the same amount of (low screw turns out from closed)… so I retuned it, dealing with each cylinder and carb on there own…. It didn’t take much, maybe 1/8 turn or so in to get that rear cylinder to heat up…but I don’t remember the exact amount it needed..

I eventually found some uneven discoloration in the idle adjusters (low screws) seat between the 2 carbs..

Good info, Thanks Harbor!

 

[Jcary85]

Also make sure carbs are in sync