Bilge Paint or No Paint?

Just wanted to get some feedback, I’m on the middle of reinforcing my hull, refoaming, etc. and I’m trying to decide if I want to use a bilge paint for the inside of the hull... on one hand it looks nice but I’m afraid it would eventually flake off and not look so nice. What has been your experience?
 
Location
LOTO
I used white Bilgekote 3 years ago. It worked well, covered good and has held up well. It did flake a little in a couple spots, but that was probably more about my prep than the paint. Very easy to touch up. If you use white, you will need to fully wipe it down often to keep it looking clean.
 
Yes paint looks nice but that’s about it.
I leave all my skis raw
If you want looks and you’re doing the reinforcements with epoxy resin
Then mix up a batch of resin with die
That way you don’t have to remove the paint if you fix or change anything later. But once you switch to epoxy you can’t put polyester over the top.


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It is just bare from the factory though correct? I’m wondering if it would be okay to sand it down and just brush a thin layer of resin over everything after I’m finished with the reinforcing...
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Yes paint looks nice but that’s about it.
I leave all my skis raw
If you want looks and you’re doing the reinforcements with epoxy resin
Then mix up a batch of resin with die
That way you don’t have to remove the paint if you fix or change anything later. But once you switch to epoxy you can’t put polyester over the top.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Are you using poly on OEM hulls?
 

E350

Site Supporter
Location
Sacramento Delta
FYW, I just painted the bilge in my wife's X2 and posted my thoughts in post #11 here:

http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?thre...de-tray-with-no-template.196641/#post-2039527

Prep is everything. I sandblasted the interior of the X2 bilge and then vacuumed out the sand. And repeated about three times. Where at least a pink respirator when sandblasting to avoid silicosis if using sand of any kind.

FYI, this is from your suggested paint's Data Sheet:

"All epoxies will chalk and fade when un-topcoated in exterior environments. Apply appropriate topcoat
if aesthetics are required."
 
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McDog

Other Administrator
Staff member
Location
South Florida
If you just want it a uniform black color that you dont have to redo then use black appliance epoxy spray paint from a home supply store. Gas resistant and it doesnt need any better prep than a good washing out with detergent and a scrub down with acetone.
 
FYW, I just painted the bilge in my wife's X2 and posted my thoughts in post #11 here:

http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?thre...de-tray-with-no-template.196641/#post-2039527

Prep is everything. I sandblasted the interior of the X2 bilge and then vacuumed out the sand. And repeated about three times. Where at least a pink respirator when sandblasting to avoid silicosis if using sand of any kind.

FYI, this is from your suggested paint's Data Sheet:

"All epoxies will chalk and fade when un-topcoated in exterior environments. Apply appropriate topcoat
if aesthetics are required."
Awesome! I’ve so far spent a couple days of sanding and prep work, hats off to anyone who cares this much about their ski! After all the projects I’ve done and machines I’ve built, digging foam out of a salt water logged ski then grinding and sanding its interior and exterior is easily one of the hardest and most painstaking things I’ve ever had to do. Just so tedious. All I can think about while working is how much fun this is going to be when it’s finished... ahh one day.

Anyways, I have been using a pink respirator for everything so far and I’m hoping it’s enough. I have to admit my lungs do feel a bit tickly after being around this swirling glass dust. I’m not sure how much better of a respirator I could find. As for the paint my goal is to have any color other than White, Grey or Red. I can’t find any “bilge paint” in colors other than those. I would honestly rather have a raw inside, than to paint it one of those colors. I’m very intrigued by the Tile-Clad HS, I understand some resins aren’t compatible and also some will not work with SMC. But after reading about the properties of the paint, I can’t see why it wouldn’t bond to the epoxy resin and biax that I’m using for the reinforcement. I have the phone number to our local rep and I’m going to contact him for further information. I’ve been reading on other boating sites of people using this paint for the bilge and it working just as well as bilge paint itself. I understand that some of you don’t care about “color schemes” and “matching colors” and I can completely respect that. I on the other hand really love to see creative and artistic renditions of whatever it is you choose to build, be it cars, trucks, motorcycles, jet skis, anything. I’m a big fan of just as much thought and care being taken for the aesthetic, as well as the mechanical integrity of any given machine. I’m really considering trying this paint to give an honest opinion if anyone in the future wants to paint the inside of their hull a specific color, which can be done with the Tile-Clad HS paint.

For prep work, what else can I do other than sand with 80-120 grit and a multi-tool, handwork and a dremel...? I’m hesitant to sandblast the inside. But there is a local blasting shop a few miles up the road... would that be worth looking into?
 

E350

Site Supporter
Location
Sacramento Delta
After purple power and some die grinding (which I do not recommend), then some judicious sandblasting (which I do recommend - although you will never get all the sand out...), then Valspar Tractor & Implement paint catalized with Valspar Enamel Hardener with the H.F. mini HVLP gun with a .8 tip. It is not pristine, because it is going to have to get dirty again. Any thoughts on the last photo in the bunch?
 

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I spoke with the local Sherwin Williams rep for their epoxy and marine division. He told me directly that Tile-Clad HS Epoxy paint would stick to fiberglass and epoxy resin like no other. He said there is no reason I can’t use it for bilge paint and even said he had seen it done before. It is not however recommended for prolonged submersion, so he said as long as I don’t leave water sitting in my boat for a year it will be fine. I’ve sponged the last water out of my ski before and I think it will be an easy practice to keep up. He did say if I was worried about the submersion, they offer another product specifically for continuous submersion. It’s called Macropoxy 646. I’m going to look into this and see which I will decide to use!
 

E350

Site Supporter
Location
Sacramento Delta
Macropoxy 646 pretty interesting. No statements that it gets chaulky if not top coated if used in exterior environments like the Tile Clad. Can be reduced for spraying (reduction not recommended for brushing) after the epoxy is mixed. I wonder if it is sold in pints or even quarts? Please post up prices. Also post up pictures and your experience with it.
 
Macropoxy 646 pretty interesting. No statements that it gets chaulky if not top coated if used in exterior environments like the Tile Clad. Can be reduced for spraying (reduction not recommended for brushing) after the epoxy is mixed. I wonder if it is sold in pints or even quarts? Please post up prices. Also post up pictures and your experience with it.
Ill be doing this in the next couple days. Im using one or the other so we will get some answers :cool:
 
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