FX-1 Bilge Pumps and Check Valves

Starting new thread . . One follow up question on Bilge pumps. I had a used RULE 360 GPH pump in my inventory. I pulled it out and starting think about a bilge install. I already have billet hardware . . but given how much my ski spends it time under water . . I am not to keen on having another hole in the hull w/o a proper check valve. As stated in my earlier thread, I am only looking for a bilge to be a fail safe to my one way valve. The bilge would give me a switch to hit, if I see I am taking on water and can't get the motor started. Since I don't plan on this happening very often (hopefully not at all) I don't like the idea of water rushing in through a new 1/2" hole in my hull every time I submerge my ski. Seems like a check valve would solve it (RULE's website does not say anything about their bilges have this as a built in feature). . . I also saw some online comments with respect to check valves and bilges are not a good idea . . but in my application (emergency, triggered via a switch) I would think a check valve would be OK.
 

AndyL

Grip it and Rip it
Location
Longview, WA
I really dont think your going to take on that much more water with a 1/2" hole leading to your bilge... Atleast nothing your one way isn't going to handle. I doubt you'll even notice it. If anything install the bilge, submerge it and then flip the switch and see what comes out. If its a lot then worry about a check valve but I cant imagin it being much.
 
Per Bryan Muse at Flow Control . . "we cannot recommend the use of a check valve with any of our bilge pumps. Check valves can cause the pump to air lock at not pump water out. There is the chance that the combination of using a manual switch to turn the pump on/off and the vessel bouncing around, would clear any air lock problem. We do not suggest the use of a check valve."
 
From Neil Abrams from Rule Industries (sub of Flow Control) . . "Regretfully we do not recommend check valves for the following:

Both Rule and our competitors' centrifugal style bilge pumps have very little air vacuum pressure because there is a large gap between the centrifugal impeller and the impeller housing (depending on the pump, it could range between 1/16"-3/16") which allows high flow and some bilge debris to flow past the impeller without damaging the unit.

The negative side of the having the large gap between the housing and the impeller is the impeller needs to come in contact with water to pull the water out of the bilge (water being a lot thicker than air).

A check valve in the bilge hose seals air in the hose and will not allow the water to come in contact with the impeller. The pump may be in a few inches of water (or completely submerged) but because of the air pocket, the pump cannot remove the water from the bilge.

If you wanted to remove as much water as possible, you could try installing a diaphragm style pump. The diaphragm pumps have internal check valves and are self priming to at least 6'. The only drawback is that the diaphragm pumps do not have as much flow as the centrifugal pumps. If you mounted the centrifugal pump switch higher than the switch for the diaphragm pump, the diaphragm pump could be used for the daily water seepage and the centrifugal pump could be used for emergency pumping. "
 

Motorheads5

Livin the generation gap
Location
ketchikan alaska
Talk to TanMan he has dual 5oo gpm Rule pump's on a Stock hood SN and after installing bilge pump check valves the water problem's were 1/2 of what they were before installing the check valves and he does not leave his pump's running.I was trying to see if there was a brand name on the valves he installed but can't see anything I remember checking them out when he brought them home and told me about them I blew in them to see how much resistance there was and there was virtually none. I dont think you can go wrong with them. JMO
 
Talk to TanMan he has dual 5oo gpm Rule pump's on a Stock hood SN and after installing bilge pump check valves the water problem's were 1/2 of what they were before installing the check valves and he does not leave his pump's running.I was trying to see if there was a brand name on the valves he installed but can't see anything I remember checking them out when he brought them home and told me about them I blew in them to see how much resistance there was and there was virtually none. I dont think you can go wrong with them. JMO

Might just be a case of the Rule folks being very conservative. I would lean towards you and your friends direct experience.

In the end, I think I'll do a 500 GPH Rule, with float switch, with over-ride switch on the bulkhead. See how much water I get given my riding style and environment (lake). . if too much . . I'll try the check valve.
 

95FX1

brrrrraaaaaappppppp
nice looking ski bro^^^

i got dual 500's on my fx1 and she def. needs it as she is full of water all the dam time it seams....
broke my bildge switch at wavedays last year and have not gotten the new offical bar switch yet.....need it...make life easy....anyway
i have a pump by my gas tank and one in the back of the ski area....both of my pump holes...one on each side of the top of my tray...shooting over each side...uses a billet 45 degree water outlet....the setup work amazing....
 
Thanks for the nod. Had the FX1 for a couple years now. Just put the larger 144 pump in it. B pipe and carb rebuild for this winter project. . . and most likely the bildge.

All of my riding is lake. My skill level doesn't have the ski submerged that much. . . but I like the idea of having the security of flipping the switch if needed. Thinking bulk head switch. Single 500 GPH Rule, use a float switch (to pump if I am not paying attention) with the manual over ride. The one-way valve on my ski (for my riding anyway) works really well . . as long as I am moving forward.

Once (if) my skills or locations warrant it . . I would add the second pump.

nice looking ski bro^^^

i got dual 500's on my fx1 and she def. needs it as she is full of water all the dam time it seams....
broke my bildge switch at wavedays last year and have not gotten the new offical bar switch yet.....need it...make life easy....anyway
i have a pump by my gas tank and one in the back of the ski area....both of my pump holes...one on each side of the top of my tray...shooting over each side...uses a billet 45 degree water outlet....the setup work amazing....
 

95FX1

brrrrraaaaaappppppp
^^ all good then bro....
i find that my rear pump does 90percent of the work anyway....and since im around 250lbs my ski lean a lil bit up most times.....

so its a great investment as u can just push the button and know u got the water out of her
 
i just run one 500 gph in the open area of my ski without a one way valve and i have never had a problem being close to flooding my ski... KR's blidge hasnt been working at all for the last two months and he has been fine riding with his one-way. its all a matter of what you want to do. anyway you go with it im sure you be fine.
 

itismejoshy

I Do What I Can...
Location
cape coral
i run a 500 rule also....but i made the stupid mistake of installing my billet bilge hole just below the water line if i am sitting on the ski and it's not planed out.....so it will fill if i am sitting in the surf chit chating.....check valve would rock.....or i have to drill another hole!
 
I would assume one would want to poke the hole as far above the bonding strip as possible . . allowing max freeboard. Was there a reason why you poked it lower?

i run a 500 rule also....but i made the stupid mistake of installing my billet bilge hole just below the water line if i am sitting on the ski and it's not planed out.....so it will fill if i am sitting in the surf chit chating.....check valve would rock.....or i have to drill another hole!
 
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