Super Jet Bilge Switch

[imabadfish]

Anyone running the bilge switch from blowsion? The one that mounts to the start / stop switch.

( http://www.blowsion.com/products/160-bilge-switch-start-stop-switch-mount-yamaha.aspx )

I have been running the rotary switch but think it makes more sense for the switch to be up on the handle pole. Just want to make sure I'm making the right decision here.

Anyone out there who has run both and can shed some light on any problems that may arise from either setup?

 

[QuickMick]

Im running the blowsion switch on the S/S switch. Only down fall is you can hit it with you knee. I have hit it a few times but luckly not very hard.

 

[imabadfish]

Yeah that seems like it would hurt. They also have this one that mounts on the handle pole: http://www.blowsion.com/products/125-bilge-switch-universal-handle-bar-mount.aspx

Not sure whats better

 

[QuickMick]

There is one guy that actually glued the switch under his pole around the turn plate area. This eliminates the chance to nail your knees on the mount since there is none. Good idea, just a thought.

 

[augustaf]

and then there was this guy who put a switch inside a switch

 

[JamesG]

I heard the blowsion switches aren't exactly 100% water proof. Also, I didn't use one because I didn't want to cram any more wires up my handle pole, with the risk of one of the cables kinking from being too crowded. Just some things you might want to consider.

 

[steve-uk]

rotary switch i have ran for over 4 years with zero issues, before that i had a pole mount version and it lasted about a season... woudl never touch a pole mount switch again

 

[badvinny]

I agree with Steve, I cant seem to keep any of the barmount switchs running over a year, and I only get 1/2 seasons here!!!!

 

[imabadfish]

thanks... well i wish there was a better solution for the handle pole that is a more reliable. Seems it would be a lot easier. I have an after market hood and I don't want to have to reach under the vents...

 

[garretonufer]

I'm running a bar mount switch. it's nice to have it accessible however after about 3-4 years my switch has gone bad and needs replacing. I won't go to a rotary at the dash area, i'm too use to being able to hit the switch on the fly while riding.

 

[FlightPlanDan]

I've got /had a good switch thru wamilton. My wifes is still fine. I wrecked mine trying to get a bit more slack up top.

Now, I connect two wires under the hood b4 riding, it runs 100% of the time and works fine.
A switch is nice. But it's just one more thing to go wrong.

The biggest PIA with my current set-up is that the engine cover must come on/off prior to leaving and after returning.

A 500 rule eats no power running constant.

 

[nightrider05]

I have one of those switches laying around if you are interested...Would sell it for $45 shipped since its not perfect. Needs to be reglued to the holder and is a pretty stiff switch(not sure if it should be that way..never used any other). Right now its held on by a wire.

Has the aluminum holder with screws and all wires are intact. PM me if interested.

 

[rollin5150]

I have been running the blowsion bar mount switch for 4 years without issue. I am fresh water only though.

 

[djkorn1]

Get a rulemate bilge pump and eliminate the need for a switch...do a search on google.

 

[yankeeboy]

Get a rulemate bilge pump and eliminate the need for a switch...do a search on google.

The Rule-Mate series of Automated Bilge Pumps feature a pump and a non-mercury float switch in a single, compact housing. When the float rises, the bilge pump turns on. There is no on/off cycling and therefore, no power use until the bilge pump comes on. The bilge pump remains on until the float drops and the pump senses no load against the impeller. Activates when the water level reaches 2 1/8".

 

[sjetrider]

stick with what ya got or even rig what you have into the chin pad nicely. These switches are expensive and NOT reliable at all in my experience.

 

[sjetrider]

The Rule-Mate series of Automated Bilge Pumps feature a pump and a non-mercury float switch in a single, compact housing. When the float rises, the bilge pump turns on. There is no on/off cycling and therefore, no power use until the bilge pump comes on. The bilge pump remains on until the float drops and the pump senses no load against the impeller. Activates when the water level reaches 2 1/8".

" Activates when the water level reaches 2 1/8". " yeah and thats enough for water to get in carbs on your next roll.

 

[OCD Solutions]

There a couple different grades of the handlebar switch on the market and I have no way tell them apart. I got 7 years out of my first switch and less than a season out of my second. I ordered a third for another SJ and it was stiff to turn on right out of the box from Blowsion. I really liked the option of having the switch on the handpole but i had to change for reliability and cost. I switched to Rotary style and have not had any problems in 3 seasons of surf riding.

Despite the good luck I've had with rotary switches I have sourced out and now stock the Military grade sealed toggle switches. They are simpler, much cheaper and stand up just as well from what I hear from my surf riding friends that have riden with them for years.

 

[augustaf]

There a couple different grades of the handlebar switch on the market and I have no way tell them apart. I got 7 years out of my first switch and less than a season out of my second. I ordered a third for another SJ and it was stiff to turn on right out of the box from Blowsion. I really liked the option of having the switch on the handpole but i had to change for reliability and cost. I switched to Rotary style and have not had any problems in 3 seasons of surf riding.

Despite the good luck I've had with rotary switches I have sourced out and now stock the Military grade sealed toggle switches. They are simpler, much cheaper and stand up just as well from what I hear from my surf riding friends that have riden with them for years.

Yes, there are two types made by CPI. The most common is affordable but usually fails on short order at the point where the cable enters the switch. Seems the glue that holds/seals the entry point fails and lets water enter. The other one is a mil. spec. switch. Look at the picture; you'll note that the entry cable is vulcanized to the switch. I have had several of these in use for over 15 years on diff. skis - none have failed! Hot Products used to stock both types but has offered only the cheap one in the last 8 years. Riva might still have the mil. spec. type (more then $100).
I now get them from mcmaster.com ( 6944K12 ), cable is different, two individual wires, 16" long. This one will last you a lifetime for $68. I install mine on the dash or preferably inside the handle bar switch ( see post above)

 

[OCD Solutions]

That's the one Fred, is there a difference in the shape or contour of the bottons that may help distinguish the two apart? Big difference in performance and I think alot of the cheap switches get sold as the military ones. I used to use the price to distinguish but I don't think that holds true anymore. People seem to price all handlebar switches the same now regardless of quality.