Bizarre Issue With 92 XP

I know this isn't a stand up, but I'm nearly out of troubleshooting options here. I've been trying to fix a 92 XP 587 twin carb for a buddy. The ski last ran a couple years ago and started having issues. He replaced the carbs with a used set that was allegedly already rebuilt. It ran very poorly and it sat since then. At this point the gas was bad and I went through the entire fuel system.

Compression: 150 psi even

Carbs: The mag carb was missing 2 diaphragms in the fuel pump and had some black film in it that I haven't seen in a carb before. I cleaned them thoroughly and rebuilt with authentic Mikuni rebuild kits. New 2.0 needle and seats, I used the longer spring in the kit (115 gram I believe) and measured the popoff at 32psi on each carb. New Tygon oil lines and I couldn't find any OEM gaskets / o-rings so I used an SBT intake kit. I try to stay away from SBT, but I couldn't find much else. The carb base gaskets matched fine, but there wasn't a matching rotary valve O-ring in the kit. I used the largest one in the kit that was flat and probably 3mm wide. It could have spaced the rotary valve cover out slightly, but it appears flush. That's the only thing I did that I'm not 100% confident in.

Pilot jets: 60
Main jets: 125
High speed screw: closed
Low speed screw: 1.5 turns

All old gas drained and replaced with new. Put in 40:1 premix for while the oil pump primes the lines.

New spark plugs NGK BR8ES

Checked gas tank vent check valves. It has 2 and they're in opposite directions, which seems strange but looks OEM. I always thought you wanted one to keep pressure in the tank / allow air in.

All new fuel lines, filter cleaned

At this point I got it all back together and it ran great. I set the idle on land to about where it should be. It idles great and revs great, all seems fine. It restarts without the choke or any throttle after being warmed up shortly. I start it at the boat ramp out of the water and it also runs great. I back it into the water and it has a hard time starting. It will finally start using the choke, but has very little power and bogs like it's starving for gas. After it bogged and died, I pulled it from the water and it was hard to restart, but once again ran great after it was started. I repeated this several times with the same result. I even backed it in while running good and it once again started bogging and died.

I then tried backing it in just enough to where the pump intake is submerged. Sure enough, it started right up! It ran great and the jet pump had plenty of thrust. If I didn't have it tied down, it would've ran up into my truck. The jet pump was definitely loading up as it should, producing thrust and running water through the engine and out the pisser. I set the idle (2 turns above what seemed right on land) and it idled great for 10 minutes. I go to back it in the water 2 more feet (still not enough to get it off the trailer) and it dies before I can get out of the truck. I repeated this several times with the same result. But whenever it bogs and dies, it's always hard to restart, even on land. After adjusting the in water idle, the out of water idle is way too high and the engine redlines.

I did initially install a KN mini inline fuel filter just before the carbs. I noticed that it somewhat emptied out while running. I removed the line and blew into the vent line to pressurize the tank. I got good flow through both the factory filter and the KN. The flow was the same without the KN, but I still removed it as a variable.

I also tried filling a bottle with premix and running it directly to the carbs with a short section of hose (no filter) and got the same results.

Sorry for the long write up, but I tried to show all that I've gone through diagnosing this. I'm not sure what the problem could be at this point and I don't want to keep chasing my tail. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!!!
 

john zigler

Vendor Account
Location
wisconsin
You have the wrong springs in the carbs. Those should be using 95 gram springs.
Also don’t use any additional inline fuel filters.

Finally make sure you are using the correct rotary cover o-ring. Too much rotary valve clearance will make it impossible to start in the water.

Seadoo Springs are 95 gram, BUT they are different than std Mikuni 95 gram Springs. They have their own specs.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll pull it back apart, measure RV clearance without the O ring, swap the pop off springs and get a proper o ring. The fuel selector is already bypassed. Gotta love Seadoo, 2 carbs and a rotary valve that takes 2 hours to remove, all to make a whopping 60 Hp lol. Oh and they seem to have discontinued most OEM parts for these already.
 
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Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll pull it back apart, measure RV clearance without the O ring, swap the pop off springs and get a proper o ring. The fuel selector is already bypassed. Gotta love Seadoo, 2 carbs and a rotary valve that takes 2 hours to remove, all to make a whopping 60 Hp lol. Oh and they seem to have discontinued most OEM parts for these already.
You do realize that the seadoo 580 made 10 more HP than the yamaha 650? They are temperamental but once you learn them they make more HP per CC.
 
You do realize that the seadoo 580 made 10 more HP than the yamaha 650? They are temperamental but once you learn them they make more HP per CC.

Yes, but yamahas breadbox exhaust is what kills the power, while seadoo comes with a tuned exhaust. My single 46 701 w/ b pipe has gotta be 80hp+ and a single 46 is rated for 90hp. Keep it simple, reeds work and no need for dual carbs on a 587 IMO.

I had a 95 seadoo speedster with twin 657x 80hp motors for 5 years. I always thought it was cool to have a 80 horse 650 and it never gave me many problems. I’ve resurrected a handful of seadoos for buddies, 657, 717 and 951. Every one was a pita to work on besides the single carb 717. The 951 had to be the worst removing the exhaust just to get access to the carbs.

I appreciate the info on the springs. I’ll order some standard 95 grams. Most the listings for rotary valve o rings are for 657 / 717. Are they the same size as the 587?


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Yes, but yamahas breadbox exhaust is what kills the power, while seadoo comes with a tuned exhaust. My single 46 701 w/ b pipe has gotta be 80hp+ and a single 46 is rated for 90hp. Keep it simple, reeds work and no need for dual carbs on a 587 IMO.

I had a 95 seadoo speedster with twin 657x 80hp motors for 5 years. I always thought it was cool to have a 80 horse 650 and it never gave me many problems. I’ve resurrected a handful of seadoos for buddies, 657, 717 and 951. Every one was a pita to work on besides the single carb 717. The 951 had to be the worst removing the exhaust just to get access to the carbs.

I appreciate the info on the springs. I’ll order some standard 95 grams. Most the listings for rotary valve o rings are for 657 / 717. Are they the same size as the 587?


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Correct, I was just talking stock for stock. Seadoo actually had West Coast Performance make the pipes.
 
Well I finally got the chance to mess with it some more. I measured the RV clearance and got .43 and .41mm. He also has a used, previously SBT refurb cover and I got .34 and .37. Better than the first one, but still slightly out of spec (.28mm +/- .06).

I plan to order a SBT refurb cover, is it worth replacing the rotary valve at the same time?
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
That RV clearace has to be exact or it's not going anywhere, all of the 91 models came with too much rotary valve clearance , every single RV cover had to be removed , the clearance measured , the rotary vlave cover machined and then reinstalled, 91 was not a good year.
 
@mikidymac I also ordered some 95 gram springs that were labeled as authentic, but turned out to be WSM and gave a popoff of 20 psi. Will 32 psi run alright with the 115 gram authentic Mikuni springs? 25 seems low anyway for that restrictive factory flame arrestor.
 
I figured I'd close this out in case someone stumbles on it in 5 years. Ordered an SBT reman cover, out of stock and took a month to get. Got a call after ordering asking for another $28 to cover shipping from FL to GA. When it finally arrived, I measured before install and it was WORSE tolerance than the old cover. Called SBT, said they've never had an issue with them and its an error on me. They accepted my return and I sent it back with the relevant pages from the service manual along with my measurements stating it was out of spec by .13mm, call me upon receipt and let me talk to the machinist.

Two weeks goes by and I call. Guy says he saw my letter, but already restocked it and has no way to find that one. He reassured me the next one would be right and he would "rush" it. A month later I received the second cover, this time .04mm worse at .17mm off spec. The surface was also poor this time and had a 2" indention from whatever cutter they use in the mill. Called again to tell them to take their POS back and give me a refund. Really makes me question having their crank in my ski with this kind of piss poor QC.

On the plus side, I made a good connection to a local good ol boy machine shop for whenever I need something oddball like this done. He cut it for $300 and it measured perfectly in spec to the thou in under 2 weeks. Got it together and it ran perfectly. Only a quarter turn in on the lows to 1 1/4 and it was running great. I forgot how fun these old things are, it really blows a spark away and does excellent tail stands that actually take a little skill to do. So fun I burned a half tank on the test drive.

Anyway, I'm glad to give his ski back after 3 months lol.

SBT Garbage
1625760803376.jpeg

Locally done right
1625760840774.jpeg
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Back in 91 every one of those was out of spec brand new , we had a local machine shop machining them to the tune or two or three a day, its not a fun task because whatever you cut off the face also has to be cut into the o-ring groove and off the outside edge of the cover where the o-ring goes. Probaly multiple passes and lots of setup time to machine that.
 
I talked with the machinist about the o ring groove. He said it would be more expensive to machine that too and we agreed it shouldn’t matter. The o ring should have more than a few thou of extra squish in it. We studied sbts cover and we agreed it didn’t look like they touched the groove.

It’s crazy to think that the tolerance of this thing is roughly 3 sheets of paper, +/- 1/2 sheet. And that’s all that was keeping this damn thing from running.

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WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
The clearance really didn't matter till they put the 147 degree rotary valves in, the 132 degree valve would run with basically any clearance, tey quickly found out the 147 valve would not tolerate it.
 

Yami-Rider

TigerCraft FV-PRO
Location
Texoma
I talked with the machinist about the o ring groove. He said it would be more expensive to machine that too and we agreed it shouldn’t matter. The o ring should have more than a few thou of extra squish in it. We studied sbts cover and we agreed it didn’t look like they touched the groove.

It’s crazy to think that the tolerance of this thing is roughly 3 sheets of paper, +/- 1/2 sheet. And that’s all that was keeping this damn thing from running.

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He charged $300 and didnt cut the o-ring groove to spec ‍o_O. Idk what he was using to machine it, but shouldn't of took but maybe 5-10 min to cut that groove once it was chucked up.
It takes me an hour to fully machine one, but I also made special adapter plates, so they are easy to hold onto/center in lathe.

Non the less, glad you got it running.
 
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