Blaster cutting out when leaning left

Adidasandy

Adidasandy

Location
Brisbane
As above. Had this issue for sometime but trying to get to the bottom of it.
701 with B pipe and twin 44's
44's have full rebuild, 2mm needle and seats, 120 pilot and 120 main with pop off of 30psi.
Ski runs great on tick over all the way up to WOT.
Issue is when I go to side mount from the left the ski struggle to start but after a few seconds it's away. The more the ski leans over the harder it is to start.
Even when I'm idling along everything is good, if I lean to the right slightly (not turning bars) the tick over increases slightly and if I lean ski to the left slightly it starts to die and if I lean it over a little more it dies.
Now had this issue even when my setup was 2mm N&S 115 pilot and 130 main with 21psi pop off. The ski runs much better with my new setup but I can't understand why it's doing what it is.
Any help on this would be great as it has me stumped!
 
T

te4250

Location
Western NY
Big Kahuna said:
How much fuel in the tank? Sounds like a fuel pickup issue.
Click to expand...
Would that really happen that quick? In my experience takes a couple seconds at full throttle to even burn all the fuel between the fuel selector and the carb on an sj, and there's alot more line than that between the tank and carb on a blaster.

At the same time I don't really have a better suggestion lol. The one thing I can see is the kill switch wires and plug are on the left side, if your plug is no longer water proof, maybe your leaning far enough to short the kill. That seems like a stretch as well though.
 
Adidasandy

Adidasandy

Location
Brisbane
It's not electrical. Loads of fuel in tank, pick ups are all good. When idling along the ski if fine, if I lean to the right slightly the ski picks up revs but hardly noticeable. If I lean to the left the ski revs lower and the more I lean the worse it gets until it dies, this happens instantly and if it starts to die I lean the other way and it corrects itself but I can also throttle it to save it from diing . If I'm off the ski and start it up when it's upright then shes fine, if I try to side mount from the left it takes a few seconds to start before shes away.
 
T

te4250

Location
Western NY
Idk seems to me like roll angle would have little to do with function of the reeds, I know this isn't the answer your looking for but if you can give it some throttle to save it what about just upping the idle a touch? Is your idle set very low right now? I'm not sure whether these carbs deliver exactly the same mixture at all angles, Anybody here have insight on that?
 
Adidasandy

Adidasandy

Location
Brisbane
te4250 said:
Idk seems to me like roll angle would have little to do with function of the reeds, I know this isn't the answer your looking for but if you can give it some throttle to save it what about just upping the idle a touch? Is your idle set very low right now? I'm not sure whether these carbs deliver exactly the same mixture at all angles, Anybody here have insight on that?
Click to expand...
Tick over is low ATM. I'll adjust that today on my water test. I'm also going to turn out the low screws to see if it gets better or worse.
 
fx1mark

fx1mark

Location
Alabama
One thought is that the fuel pump's are not pumping fuel well. Leaning to the right raises fuel above the carbs and leaning to the left lowers it. Have you checked to make sure the filters in the fuel pump are clean? Also take a close look at your pulse lines. You could put a clear fuel line from the filter to the carbs. Set the ski on a soft surface like your yard and with the hood open tilt the ski and observe the clear fuel line for fuel flow as it idles.
Also make sure all of your fuel lines are clear including your filter. If you have a check valve on your tank make sure it is functioning properly.
 
Adidasandy

Adidasandy

Location
Brisbane
fx1mark said:
One thought is that the fuel pump's are not pumping fuel well. Leaning to the right raises fuel above the carbs and leaning to the left lowers it. Have you checked to make sure the filters in the fuel pump are clean? Also take a close look at your pulse lines. You could put a clear fuel line from the filter to the carbs. Set the ski on a soft surface like your yard and with the hood open tilt the ski and observe the clear fuel line for fuel flow as it idles.
Also make sure all of your fuel lines are clear including your filter. If you have a check valve on your tank make sure it is functioning properly.
Click to expand...
Carbs have just been rebuilt and all lines replaced. Check valve is also new and I have vacuum when removing the cap. I'm off out for another water test now so I'll mess on with it for a but more and give some feedback later on ;-)
 
Brownie

Brownie

Location
Bozeman, MT
You said you have vacuum when you remove the cap? Do you mean you have pressure built in the fuel tank when you remove the gas cap? Should be pressure in the tank, if it has vacuum your starving the motor.
 
Adidasandy

Adidasandy

Location
Brisbane
Just got back. I've turned the idle screw in to allow higher tickover (normal) and have adjusted the LOW screws out an 1/8 as the ski would flat line otherwise (LEAN)
If I lean both left or right it seems to idle ok now.
But, on startup after running it takes few seconds to start (3 max) and this is the problem I have especially when trying to side mount.
I'm now thinking reeds, I wouldn't say it's a ball ache to start but 2 to 3 seconds before it fires up it too long for me.
I really do appreciate all the input you guys are giving me and anymore help of guidance would be great.
 
Big Kahuna

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Adidasandy said:
Just got back. I've turned the idle screw in to allow higher tickover (normal) and have adjusted the LOW screws out an 1/8 as the ski would flat line otherwise (LEAN)
If I lean both left or right it seems to idle ok now.
But, on startup after running it takes few seconds to start (3 max) and this is the problem I have especially when trying to side mount.
I'm now thinking reeds, I wouldn't say it's a ball ache to start but 2 to 3 seconds before it fires up it too long for me.
I really do appreciate all the input you guys are giving me and anymore help of guidance would be great.
Click to expand...
err, Its going to take 2-3 seconds to prime your lines cranking the motor over.
 
Adidasandy

Adidasandy

Location
Brisbane
Had a tuner look it. The 44's are struggling with my motor or vice versa and I'm not dicking on with them anymore. Going down the 38's route which I had no issues with, only changed to 44's as the 38's I ran snapped the L screw in the carb due to corrosion and the 44's were cheap - Now I know why ;-)
Thanks again for all your help and input.
 
Adidasandy

Adidasandy

Location
Brisbane
Back again!!!!!!! new 38's with standard airbox and it's doing exactly the same. Taking a few seconds to start but only in the water, it takes 4 to 5 seconds to start on it's side and when it does it's like it has no power until it clears itself and away she goes. Running a B pipe which is not blocked (checked all 3 screws) but it's running hot as the TDR waterbox is too hot to touch. I've checked all waterways and have no blockage. Iv'e done a comp test and both at 160psi and holding. Not sure what's going on with it. HELP PLEASE as this is driving my insane.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom