Blowsion Steer Cable and RRP Trim System need reviews.

sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
Has anyone used these ?
I have run OEM steer cables in past and they stretch. WSM Cables come in sloppy right from the box.
I have heard that the Xmetal pole has to be modified to run Blowsion cable as well as the washer in the through hull fitting needs drilled out. I don't want to do this if its not worth it. Does it stretch or stay tight and flow well?

As for the trim, I have run Thrust new system and like it except it flows water out the back and limits turning sharp and 360's greatly. I now use the X-metal with the Bpipe coupler (flow guard mod) and it is AWESOME as far as performance but not a great part quality wise.
If the RRP gives the performance of the Xmetal and the quality of the Thrust I would be all in.
I am building my new T1 and will need these parts soon. Any feedback from people who have use these would be awesome.
Thanks
 
That cable is pretty awesome. I didn't have to do anything to my rrp pole or my hull for it to fit. I have bent 6mm stainless bolts and not broken the cable...
 
Going on 3 seasons.... I think. There is actually a little slop in the ends that come with the cable. Nothing you would notice while riding though.
 

RMBC Freeride

Vintage
Site Supporter
Location
Pueblo, CO
Yo B, I've used the Blowsion Steer cable in at least 3 or 4 skis with no issues except the tight fitting on some handlepoles and at the thru-hull fitting as mentioned. Also they are freakishly long so you will have a ton of slack on a short-pole ski. I've had to make a loop next to the gas tank or underneath the motor. Cable ends are bigger thread size with heim joints so you have to unbolt them to adjust the throw/center. But no slop like stock ends.
 
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sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
The more I look at the RRP steer system, the more I think its not for me. It has veins in the steer nozzle that would need ground out to bore the nozzle should you want to.
 
Im really impressed with my RRP trim system.
One of the few products i've bought for my ski that's worth every penny.

First off overall quality it top notch

The trim ring tolerances are tight, it has no leakage when fully turned giving that extra force with spins and rolls.

It comes with a large bore ( I have the 155 setup I believe it's 90mm reduction, 95mm turn with room to spare for further boring)

The RRP reduction nozzle has changes from a OEM nozzle that increases thrust.

It has less throw than some other systems. A good thing IMO. More throw reduces height and thrust. The throw is also adjustable.

IMO It seems to me the horizontal veins in the turn nozzle would guide the water upwards when trimmed giving you more actual force to flip.

The level shape and feel is great IMO and it's easy to pull.

The RRP cable is beefer than any other brand cable AND the cable end if fitted so it doesn't bend the cable upon landing when the nozzle tilts up.

Also +1 for the blowsion steering cable. Very little slop.
Lasted me 2-1/2 years riding all the time and still going until I swapped it out for a new blowsion cable just for preventive maintenance and now I have a working spare. Just like any cable I adjust it 1/4" away or more from bottom or topping out.
 

sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
Great review Bayair, what trim system have you used in past? I can say the XMetal system (functionally) is FAR superior to even the new style Thrust.
FUNCTIONALLY being key words here LOL, Quality, not so much unfortunately.
 
I ran an X metal on my 144 setup, with and without the bpipe coupler mod.

Ive never ran the thrust system to compare it, however my friend just got an RRP system coming from a thrust system so I'll get a review from him once he rides it.
 
I ran the 144 RRP system for 2 days before removing it and getting the thrust system.
It has WAY too many flaws to be classified as a part that should be in production. I had it mounted to a stock 144 pump.

Rather than the steer nozzle maxing out out the reduction nozzle stopping the degree of trim you get the trim ring cable mounting arm maxes out and smashes into the pump mounting tab. Its was already dented about 4mm from the cable mount and 2mm from the reduction nozzle mount and at this rate it doesn't seam like it's going to last very long before it wears right through the cable mounting tab and it breaks off.

Even if I were to adjust the throw to less the cable mount design allows the cable to free float in the holder which still allows the cable mount to hit the pump without the cable being pulled. there are no adjustments you could make at the trim ring which would stop the cable mount from hitting the reduction nozzle. I could adjust where the cable sits in the slotted cable mount but this would not stop the cable mount from hitting the pump

I looked into clearancing the pump bracket to stop the cable mount from damaging itself but in order for that to happen I would have to grind 12mm+ off the mount before the steer nozzle bottomed out on the reduction nozzle. Even in the unmodified form the trim lever dose not allow you to create more angle because it will only allow so much throw regardless of clearancing. The max trim you can get with with nozzle in the horizontal position at rest is with the cable bracket being 5mm from the reduction nozzle mount at full cable pull.

Even after one ride I've noticed the system does not return to neutral once you release the lever. I have to manually push the trim lever back closed with the back of my hand even when on the throttle which should easily force it back to neutral. The way the system mounts on top of the nozzle crests a very Sharpe S in the cable coming out of the trim tube and makes the cable bind. Even dry once you pull the cable the trim is stuck in the upward position until you push the cable back in my hand. Even with thrust it will not return to natural. In the water there was numerous occasions where it would be stuck in full trim and the cable sleeve would pop right out of my lever because the cable binding at the pump mount would not let the nozzle return to neutral even under WOT

I even held a trim return spring in place and did some dry tests in the shop. Even the return spring was not enough to pull the nozzle back down because of how sharp the S is in the cable to the top of the pump from the trim tube.

The fit, finish and tolerances in the system seamed OK nothing spectactular, the cable was very heavy duty and the Rickter lever was also a great designs. I think there were some major miscommunications between the guys who designed the system, it could be much better with these flaws worked out.

I spent 2 days testing/tuning and gave up on the system. I expect way more from Rickter
 
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mike b

Michael "Mayhem" Bevacqua aka MikeyChan
Location
California
I thought the RRP system was top notch as far as tolerances and not leaking from a few friends with Rickter comp skis, I have only had luck with the bpipe coupler and Xmetal trim. Very simple design but starts to get tight when riding after a lot of spins, I was thinking an RRP trim or Thrust Pro would take my riding up a bit by having a smoother steering to spin and change directions with ease. I heard the RRP was backordered so I never looked into it from there. I ran a Thrust last year (I think the Pro) but I could tell that spins were not nearly what it was with the Xmetal.

^^This is the first negative review I have heard about the RRP system having issues. The lack of throw is not a negative for me, I run very little on my Xmetal for reasons Bayair mentioned about. Seems as though if the cable bracket is not an issue (I will check these out at WF in a few weeks) I may actually try and run one on my DVX.

I have also heard the skat trak trim system is very good, just with a heavy price tag.


Been using a blowsion cable for a few weeks on my Xmetal pole. Someone said you can't run it, they were wrong. Someone PM'd me a sent me a picture of how to do it. All it is is the cable holder needs to be opened up for a larger cable diameter and done.
 
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