Bobbing a superjet Hull

Has anyone ever thought about cutting down there superjet hull or has done it before ? Is it possible ? What would it cost ? Would it be cheaper than buying a ricketer or aftermarket hull ?
 

Midlake Crisis

Site Supporter
Location
Bakersfield, CA
There are many project threads on this - search for "Chopped" or " 3" Chop " "Chopped and rockered" etc.
I have done a 3" diagonal chop on the rear of my SN Superjet and rockered the nose but haven't put it back together yet. I can say that for myself the hours spent are worth a lot of $$$ that, unless you just love doing projex make it smarter to just purchase a hull that is built the way you want it. Even if my hull ends up riding "great", in hindsight I wish I had just bought a used AM hull that would have work better anyway.
 

Req

Location
SW Tenn
There are lots of examples. It mostly depends on your level of commitment and what you are trying to achieve if its worth it to you. Check my signature for my build.

Are you someone who likes to learn new skills? If you answered yes then cutting up an SJ is for you. You will need to learn fiberglass, faring, measuring accurately, and many other things.

Are you the sort that has reasonable free time in the off season? If yes then also good. For a basic chop, if you dont crack the tray open, you are looking at a dozen of hours or so to do it right. Rockering the nose, goodbye several times that if you design it yourself, 10 or 20 hrs if you get the carter b kit. Refoaming the tray is dozens of hours. Reinforcing the engine bay is probably 12hrs grinding and glassing. Wide tray is even more work.

For my ski I used a lot of material however I removed more hull than anyone I have seen yet. I used 3 gallons of epoxy resin and 13 yards (lots of waste however) of fiberglass. That is about 200 dollars worth of resin (bulk price) and 150 dollars worth of fiberglass. I also got about 20 bucks worth of filler material (cabosil and glass beads) and 20 bucks worth of extras (roller, cups, etc). For most projects half of the materials I used would likely be enough. I went through the entire ski so if its only a small project your bill will be much cheaper.

Is it worth it? Ill let you know once I ride an AM hull to know what I am missing but the experience of building it was absolutely worth it, I could just stare at it and not ride it and be happy.
 

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
If you got a part time job at McDonald's it would take less time to buy a used a/m hull. But if you want to learn fiberglass it is a great way. Read through multiple threads and you will see that most people either quit part way through or it takes them years to complete.
 
lol yeah im thinking that's to much work for me I guess ill just put in some OT and try and buy a used bob hull can I get one that everything from my current 61x will just swap over too ?
 
Sweet thanks for all the info guys I actually have another question my ski leans very hard to the front right it has a Coffman b pipe does anyone know why I read if you put a wet pipe in it will cause that but nothing on a b pipe? Did I read it wrong or is it just from the weight difference from stock
 
My ski at rest leans to the right side, I'm pretty sure it's from the battery and exahust pipe on that side, dosent affect riding performance for me though

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

Req

Location
SW Tenn
Its the gangsta lean. Light pipe on the left and heavy battery on the right. The stock pipe sort of balances it since its heavy. My lean went away when I installed a Lipo battery.
 
Yeah that's what I'm thinking but its wierd, my girlfriends ski has the same pipe and a stock battery but doesnt lean nearly as bad as mine. And mine has a dry cell agm so I'm not sure is there anything else that might cause it ?
 
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