Blaster bolts backing out Riva Red Pipe

I have 2 B1's with the red lead pipe and honestly it really is not a bad pipe if you di ck around with water routing and jetting.
Too many people just go with the standard water routing and jet it close and are fat dumb and happy ( well maybe the last 2) with it - You can remove the fitting where the water goes out and drill and tap it for a mikuni main jet plus you can run that pipe nice and hot like a dry pipe as there is no coupler to worry about roaching. They seem to respond well to stinger water flow also.
The pipe also NEEDS a smaller leading edge prop to get the most out of it too.
Is it a FP ? NO Is it heavy ? YES Is it fickle about mounting ? Bet your a$$ ! But for the money it is a good pipe and you can get them to hit pretty damned close to a FP. I about died when I saw the prices they are going for now - I paid $100 for mine a few yrs ago, you almost couldn't give them away back then!
Keep in mind there is no one bolt in accessory that is going to give you that OMFG hit - it's a combination of all those add on goodies properly matched for your use AND most importantly tuning!

Now with my GF's pipe coming apart thanks to some donkey d ick dumba$$ that tried to helicoil it and drilled completely thru the water jacket and into the exhaust runner ( talk about full on water injection!) I think I am going to be done with that mess and just have the whole flange welded.
Realistically how often do you really need to remove the pipe anyways? You can access the starter and if I'm doing a top end I would rather do my top end assy on the bench - Really not that much work to unbolt the motor and e box.
 
Location
Orlando
Ugh! turns out there were many hands on this set-up prior to me taking ownership. I took the motor to a local mechanic to see about getting some hardware, gaskets, etc and it turns out that there should only be 1 "C" hole in the flange. There are two on mine and all of the holes have been enlarged to take an M10 x 1.25 bolt. The header has been heli-coiled for the M10 as well. The smaller holes on the pipe itself where it bolts to the bracket have inserts in them too. Being that the stock bracket has M10 holes in it, I will tap the exhaust pipe to accommodate the larger bolts. I also found a frayed negative battery cable as well.

Now I can right the wrongs and hopefully have a reliable ski again.
 
Location
Orlando
I love riva pipes, they sound nice and they are solid, you just need to put studs and nuts on the pipe instead of the stripping bolt ;)

My mechanic didn't have the M10 studs the pipe would need to do the deed. Previous owner heli-coiled em larger for some reason. I will be putting everything back together tomorrow. Just tapped the pipe to take M10 bolts so there is no gap in the bolt holes for the original exhaust mount. Everything should be much stronger now that I fixed all of the tweaks the previous owner did on this thing.
 

seajm

Napkins..I fly a Starship
First thing, do not Heli Coil it.......Drill it for Stainless Time Certs. You are correct, only one C type cut in the flange. Two studs and one bolt. Bolt should be closest to the water fitting on the mani. I used the Ultra copper type exhaust silicone on all the bolts durning assembly........ 3.5 years in the surf an no issues!!
 
Location
Orlando
First thing, do not Heli Coil it.......Drill it for Stainless Time Certs. You are correct, only one C type cut in the flange. Two studs and one bolt. Bolt should be closest to the water fitting on the mani. I used the Ultra copper type exhaust silicone on all the bolts durning assembly........ 3.5 years in the surf an no issues!!

I think they already have helicoils in them already. They seem fine in regards to them not being pulled out or anything. I was going to red loctite the new bolts. Im pretty sure I don't have many options at this point. I could try to safety wire them together.

Two of the three holes are now "C" cut and for the bigger M10 bolts. Again, not stock nor done by me.
 
Location
Orlando
Picked up the motor and installed today. He upped the main jet to a 140. He said I should replace my reed cages and go with some Boysen (sp?) reeds. I'll wait a little before I piss away any more money right now. Now I just have to ride it. Can't wait. I also made it dual cooling. I used the water squirter as the second line to the exhaust. In the winter I'll make it look better and change the straight fitting to something like and elbow so the line routes better.
 
I know this is an old thread but I just got a Red Pipe for my B1 twin carb and could use some help with carb setup. I've been searching for a few days on and off. I'm at sea level in the SF bay area. Curious what size needle and seat, spring color, pilot and main jet sizes I should start with.
 

ItsRixter

SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
Location
Sunny Diego
I love my b1 red pipe. Riva used to make a stud kit for it.

I had the same issue you had, bolts coming loose or worse breaking off. The (3) studs screw in, then you put the two pipe parts together and tighten with a bolt onto the studs. I did this in 1999, so its lasted 15 yrs so far.
 
Location
DE
just went through this as well... put studs in the manifold now well see.. if it happens again this pipe is going in the trash.
 
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