Boring a Head Pipe and Exhaust Manifold ?

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
If you let out more pressure then you make be taking away from the backpressure you may need. The size of the opening there can very well provide restriction needed to keep the charge held in place. See post above about how it softened the low end some............

Also. How does it give more volume? Lengthening your chamber may give you more volume. but opening up the manifold is not going to give you volume. It is giving less restrictino.
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
Every time you have a hole and make the hole bigger you increase it's 2d cross sectional area aka 3d volume. Has 100% nothing to do with this thread. Sorry for the OT joke. Ok everyone carry on, nothing to see here. Doh
 

Fro Diesel

creative control
Location
Kzoo
Softening in the low end is such a terrible term, smoothing the power curve like other said all part of the equation. ever notice when you mod one thing, it affects the ride charactistcs?

I have run 50mm on ported 650s with amazing results. Let us remember most bpipe owners dont even tune their pipes. They guess at screw turns and just go with it..I bet 80% of bpipes could yeild more power by properly tuning water migration and flow control valve rpm.
 

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California

It will work but it is going to plug up constantly and be a pain in the arse. You will want it to look like this:
oval14alum.1__83359.1407853470.1280.1280.jpg
 
those are the style i use as opposed to the ones quince suggests. if you dont want it to plug up, use mig dip or regular grease or even wax. warm up the bit, dip it in the grease, grind for a minute and dip it again. they dont plug up on me, ever.
 
I am going to bring this thread back to life. I have a ported 760 build. I know there are not many speed freaks on the X but there is more activity on the X in general. I have a goal of building a 60mph ski without sending the motor out to anyone. So far i am at 53mph with pretty awful compression (i used a junk cylinder for my first time porting, 140psi with 40cc domes lol).

The pipe is a B pipe with Mod chamber. If all i care about is peak HP and RPM, then porting my mani and headpipe to 50mm should help. I have been looking everywhere for evidence of this. Of course i understand that peak HP/RPM is a combination of every working part in the system.

As a side note, i did get 2mph more from a Mach 2 pipe. But i hate the way it mounts.
 

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
I am going to bring this thread back to life. I have a ported 760 build. I know there are not many speed freaks on the X but there is more activity on the X in general. I have a goal of building a 60mph ski without sending the motor out to anyone. So far i am at 53mph with pretty awful compression (i used a junk cylinder for my first time porting, 140psi with 40cc domes lol).

The pipe is a B pipe with Mod chamber. If all i care about is peak HP and RPM, then porting my mani and headpipe to 50mm should help. I have been looking everywhere for evidence of this. Of course i understand that peak HP/RPM is a combination of every working part in the system.

As a side note, i did get 2mph more from a Mach 2 pipe. But i hate the way it mounts.
You will seen more gain from tuning the water screws on the headpipe. What impeller and pump are you running?
 
You will seen more gain from tuning the water screws on the headpipe. What impeller and pump are you running?
I am running a Hooker 10.5/16.5 that i pitched and measured myself using a granite surface plate and a slide height gauge, measuring every half inch at the blade's edge. See example pics. The prop was ordered as an 11/17. Just for fun, notice the original measurements. I am aware that my method is not perfect.

As for tuning the screws, i do agree that is very important. I found something very interesting. I am getting 7250rpm. I installed a drying switch that pulls all water from the exhaust when i flip it. This raises EGT and sends the wave back sooner (also affects scavenging, but i already have top and middle screws closed so i am mostly affecting returning wave). This should allow my RPM to increase, but it doesn't. I get the exact same RPM with the switch flipped. This means the Mod pipe with my current settings (T closed, M closed, B 0.5 turns out) is returning the wave at OR before the optimal time for this RPM range with this prop already (the mod pipe is actually TOO short for my current setup). So, i will try actually turning the bottom screw out very slightly to see what happens. Although i am yet to add a FCV, and i also want to get rid of my dry switch for now. So, adding the FCV and removing the dry switch will increase pressure at the headpipe a little bit, and bring a bit more water in. So i will do that before making screw changes.

FYI, the dry switch works wonders on my other ski with a limited chamber and a totally different motor/carbs. I have that pipe setup for low/mid powerband for freeride. When i flip the switch i get another 3 mph. This is expected based on the setup.

Hooker 11_17 original measurements.PNGHooker Re-pitch Example.PNG
 

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
I am running a Hooker 10.5/16.5 that i pitched and measured myself using a granite surface plate and a slide height gauge, measuring every half inch at the blade's edge. See example pics. The prop was ordered as an 11/17. Just for fun, notice the original measurements. I am aware that my method is not perfect.

As for tuning the screws, i do agree that is very important. I found something very interesting. I am getting 7250rpm. I installed a drying switch that pulls all water from the exhaust when i flip it. This raises EGT and sends the wave back sooner (also affects scavenging, but i already have top and middle screws closed so i am mostly affecting returning wave). This should allow my RPM to increase, but it doesn't. I get the exact same RPM with the switch flipped. This means the Mod pipe with my current settings (T closed, M closed, B 0.5 turns out) is returning the wave at OR before the optimal time for this RPM range with this prop already (the mod pipe is actually TOO short for my current setup). So, i will try actually turning the bottom screw out very slightly to see what happens. Although i am yet to add a FCV, and i also want to get rid of my dry switch for now. So, adding the FCV and removing the dry switch will increase pressure at the headpipe a little bit, and bring a bit more water in. So i will do that before making screw changes.

FYI, the dry switch works wonders on my other ski with a limited chamber and a totally different motor/carbs. I have that pipe setup for low/mid powerband for freeride. When i flip the switch i get another 3 mph. This is expected based on the setup.

View attachment 447870View attachment 447871

You should start a new thread documenting what you are doing and progress. Also @MTRHEAD has built 60+ mph superjets. Do a search for his name and read everything you can find. :)
 
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