bpipe spray vs stream?

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
I know there is a bpipe tuning thread somewhere but I cant find it!

So I am playing with the screws while I have the head pipe off and I can get the front screw to "spray" but cannot get the bottom screw to do anything more then pee type stream. I have tried switching screws around but no luck. Does this matter or should I be figuring out a way to notch the screw or something for it to spray.

lNfAGtG.jpg



Spray I think I want:
Copyrighted_Image_Reuse_Prohibited_375808.jpg



VS what it currently looks like:
water-stream-splash-blue-17519584.jpg
 
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IS0LD0UT

I hate winter
Location
MN
Mine does the same interested in the replies. I had heard you can put a better point on the screws but have not done so.
 

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
Yeah there is a really in depth thread somewhere on this. The thread suggest that you close the bottom and middle and only have the top open enough to make a fine mist. .
The concept/ theory is that if you have mist at the top screw, it creates a more effective pressure wave and allows the pipe to run hotter which gives more power. I didn't have a ton of luck getting noticeably improved results but there were a lot of other factors at play. I may give it a go again this spring.

If you have a spray pattern consider yourself lucky. I tried grinding/ filing the end of my Bpipe screw all sorts of different ways and never had real consistent luck.

The biggest problem with trying to get a 'spray' pattern is you don't know the amount of water pressure at the fitting during riding, so you have to guess how much water pressure to have from the hose on the side of your house.
 
Location
Stockton
I had misalignment between the bottom adjusters screw tip and spray hole. Basicly Sprayed a solid stream and couldn't be completly shut off
 

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
Now its the top screw that has to be open?! Dang every thread I read everyone recommends a different setting. lol.

@Harbor only way I could get the bottom to close completely was to have it screwed in to the point where the nut was flush was with the top of the adjuster.

Also went through the headpipe and chamber with a wirebrush, oven cleaner, and a pressure washer to get most of the carbon out. :D
 

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
Now its the top screw that has to be open?! Dang every thread I read everyone recommends a different setting. lol.
Hey I just work here man... LOL

That was the last thread that I read. I replaced my screws with the ones from the guy on here who sells them, they have the little T handles. I closed the bottom all the way and have been messing with the top. It runs fine with the bottom and middle completely closed.

One thing thats cool about doing it on a water hose/ disconnected from the engine is that you can confirm that there is no water coming from the ones you think are closed.

I'm considering using a pointed needle file to shape the hole on the Bpipe where the screw mates up to it. I have one that has a conical profile and I think it will fit through the hole the screw goes into. Maybe if I finesse it a little I can get a smooth conical shape, and then make the screw conical as well, which should result in a spray pattern, such as you would have if you're thumb were over a hose.
 
One thing thats cool about doing it on a water hose/ disconnected from the engine is that you can confirm that there is no water coming from the ones you think are closed.

I'm considering using a pointed needle file to shape the hole on the Bpipe where the screw mates up to it. I have one that has a conical profile and I think it will fit through the hole the screw goes into. Maybe if I finesse it a little I can get a smooth conical shape, and then make the screw conical as well, which should result in a spray pattern, such as you would have if you're thumb were over a hose.
Use a drill bit, by hand, that fits in the threads nicely and use that to cut a clean seat for the screw. If it still doesn't seal perfectly, trying screwing the screw in tightly, back it off, tighten, back it off, and just repeat so the screw forms its own seat.
 
Just to ask, with all the pressure in the exhaust, does spray (and direction of) vs stream, really make a difference? I would think it is simply the amount of water injected.

'A squirt gun in the middle of a hurricane'
 
I thought the MAIN function of the screw was to control the volume of water to keep the chamber at the optimum temperature at wide open speed. Which screw you open determined the power band.
 

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
Looks like after reading the bpipe thread I dont want to use the bottom screw anyway. And the other screws have a nice spray. =)
 

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
Went for my first ride yesterday. I ended up closing the top screw almost completely and the chamber temp was warm but not steaming or boiling. I'm talking less than an 1/8" of a turn from bottomed out. But I think at bottomed out I would still get water.

Also, the water was like 55* so I was struggling to even get the engine at proper temp.
 

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
I'll leave it be for now. After freezing my sacajewea off yesterday i'm gonna tap the brakes on riding for about a month until the water is warmer. I bet with the way I have it setup it'll sizzle when the waters closer to 70* and the air is closer to 90*.

Now I just need to find the little screw in restrictor pissers. Doesn't Cold Fusion make those or is it thrust?
 
I'll leave it be for now. After freezing my sacajewea off yesterday i'm gonna tap the brakes on riding for about a month until the water is warmer. I bet with the way I have it setup it'll sizzle when the waters closer to 70* and the air is closer to 90*.

Now I just need to find the little screw in restrictor pissers. Doesn't Cold Fusion make those or is it thrust?
Cold fusion
 
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