brearing housing rebuild

crammit442

makin' legs
Location
here
So I need to rebuild my bearing housing....
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/21652
What parts/ tools do I need and how do I do it?
Do I need a press? Should I just buy a full bearing housing deal from AJS?
http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/bearing_housing.htm

The housing itself is usually what goes bad, so you might as well get the whole thing. Aftermarket is WAY cheaper and usually works ok. OEM is upwards of $300 complete. There is a case to be made for usng the existing midshaft since it's splines are mated to your current driveshaft.
 

keefer

T1
Location
Tennessee
If the rubber surround of the midshaft is in good shape the re use it. Measure the length of the midshaft that is sticking out on the short side. Remove the shaft with a shop press. Remove the seals and use the press to remove the bearings. Replace the bearings & seals and press the shaft back in to its original length. If you don't want to do all of this then buy the aftermarket unit like mentioned before. I think WSM is the aftermarket brand and any good watercraft shop should be able to get you one.
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Does the mid shaft just slide into the rubber inside bearings?

No.

There is at least one bearing and a couple of seals inside the housing. The "rubber" is just there to support the whole thing and give it some play & cushion.
 

SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
none
If you take the bearing/seals to an industrial bearing supply place, you can get everything you need for under $20, and typically better quality too.

I use double lip seals on all 3 seals.
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
so...

Complete new oem parts (need to be assembled)- 243
or
AJS housing and shaft (only need to push shaft in)- 210

Which would you go with?
 
Last edited:
Location
Delaware
If the bearings and seals are good and it's just the rubber that has separated from the housing it can be repaired.... I had this happen and was directed to a 3m product to re-glue mine and it's held for 2 seasons now. I'll have to get the name of the stuff but it was a black adhesive that dried hard as nails and bonds to rubber, etc.
 

cookerq62

Life's Been Good
Location
Upper Bucks, PA
I ordered the oem housing with bearings installed from from AJS cus my bearings are shot anyway. Why would there be a need to replace the drive shaft if its straight? Doesn't it press into rubber on the carrier?
 

keefer

T1
Location
Tennessee
Not really, you will have to pull the engine forward enough to get the assembly out and to install it. Either way you are going to have to press the shaft out of the old housing and press it into the new. You should also pay attention to the coupler alignment as the new setup might vary a little.
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
I want to help my gapping gap when I put in my new mid shaft...... i believe the spec is 20mm out the back right......

For the record I run a 96+ mid shaft with a umi coupler set in a 91 hull with the 91 intermediate housing.....

What is the minimum I can leave? maybe 17mm?
 

dirkdiggler

Vendor Account
Location
WI
.

What rubber part is everyone talking about that means the housing is bad??
Is My FX-1 (second pic) housing junk?? It looks sunk in! It still spins smooth and has no play!
 

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