Bypass Restrictor Recommendations

crammit442

makin' legs
Location
here
Believe it or not, I do have the background for figuring out water routing, it's called years of heat transfer/fluid flow classes and experience.

Just blindly following someone's advice that a 4mm restrictor is fine, then going from 50F to 80F water or vice versa *could* result in major engine damage. Learning to check your outlet temperature which is a very basic measurement/test can save a lot of headache.

The problem with saying "use a 4mm restrictor" is that may work for that specific routing with that specific water temp/type (salt vs fresh), and as you mention, there are so many factors involved (i.d. of the fittings used which varies quite a bit, where the pump is tapped, etc etc) that it may not be a valid recommendation, plus Art or Paul or Chuckie or whoever may have done that setup in completely different water temperature than the end user, or not understand that they ride 50F water in early spring.

In the end, it's better to learn a little and understand what's going on and get the end result which is enough water pressure to prevent hot spots from localized boiling and proper engine operating temperature.

Or just install a thermostat!:Banane01:

Are you saying your builder doesn't ask you what temps you ride in? If so, you should get another builder. For that matter, why not learn a bit and do it all? Port your own motor, mod your own carbs, cut back your own props. I know when I get recommendatins from Art he asks 1000 questions that are very particualr to my setup. That's why I know it's correct. Even if you get the temps correct for your motor there are many way to change things to make the package work better. Freestyle guys tend to go by what feels better or worse rather than objective measurements such as tach or radar. Feel is very subjective and can lead to doing things that may seem better, but are actually not optimum.

Charles
 
Are you saying your builder doesn't ask you what temps you ride in? If so, you should get another builder. For that matter, why not learn a bit and do it all? Port your own motor, mod your own carbs, cut back your own props. I know when I get recommendatins from Art he asks 1000 questions that are very particualr to my setup. That's why I know it's correct. Even if you get the temps correct for your motor there are many way to change things to make the package work better. Freestyle guys tend to go by what feels better or worse rather than objective measurements such as tach or radar. Feel is very subjective and can lead to doing things that may seem better, but are actually not optimum.

Charles

When we were talking the other day I got the impression that you thought that the temperature of water you ride in doesn't matter. Maybe I misuderstood you. :dunno:

Now I am actually starting to doubt Art's recommendations. He never asked me a ton of questions about my setup and where I ride. He was really busy when I talked to him and he pulled the restrictor recommendations off the top of his head really quickly.

Maybe I should have caught him at a better time so he could take the time to go over my setup with me and explain to me what restrictors I should use for the different riding temps I ride in.
 
C

CG Racing

Guest
Water? Restrictions? I'm confused. I'm just going to put a radiator and lightweight thermostat in my setup.:sucks:
 

SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
none
Are you saying your builder doesn't ask you what temps you ride in? If so, you should get another builder. For that matter, why not learn a bit and do it all? Port your own motor, mod your own carbs, cut back your own props. I know when I get recommendatins from Art he asks 1000 questions that are very particualr to my setup. That's why I know it's correct. Even if you get the temps correct for your motor there are many way to change things to make the package work better. Freestyle guys tend to go by what feels better or worse rather than objective measurements such as tach or radar. Feel is very subjective and can lead to doing things that may seem better, but are actually not optimum.

Charles

Look at it this way, Chuckie @ Team Scream is in south Florida. He does not have 50F water to test with. I have tons of respect for him, but I wouldn't trust his recommendation blindly because of that fact.

I have no idea where Art is so I can't speak about him.

Also, once upon a time I knew someone that just could not get his engine temp up no matter what he did. In talking to him, it sounded like he had a correct setup, restrictors, what not, but could barely crack open a headpipe screw before overloading the exhaust. It ended up being the fact that he was using a Raider trim nozzle setup and had his second cooling line tapped OFF THE REDUCTION NOZZLE, the fitting that is for the oem Yamaha visibility spout. He had major pressure/flow from that.

If he had just gone by someone's recommendation and not checked temps, he would have ended up in serious trouble down the road. It was an honest mistake and something that may have been missed had he not been checking exit temps.
 
No, the 4mm restrictor is the pisser comming off the T. The t-fitting is the achual bypass

Since I am using 3/8 pissers then I am going to have to use actual inline restrictors.

After reading tons of thread and using Arts recommendations I have come up with what I think would be a good starting point. What do you all think?
 

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michael950

for me to POOP on!
Location
Houston, TX
Fly,

If you can't find anything or get too much, check the FAQ.

Most of the topics that get repeatedly asked, I post in the FAQ. I try to catch them all, but I do miss some. If you go into the FAQ you can search just that forum and reduce your results. I add post titles to catch search critera.

Anyway, this was discussed in more depth than you care to know and how RiverRat got the 4mm from Art.

B-pipe cooling, routing water lines
 
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SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
none
Fly,

If you can't find anything or get too much, check the FAQ.

Most of the topics that get repeatedly asked, I post in the FAQ. I try to catch them all, but I do miss some. If you go into the FAQ you can search just that forum and reduce your results. I add post titles to catch search critera.

Anyway, this was discussed in more depth than you care to know and how RiverRat got the 4mm from Art.

B-pipe cooling, routing water lines

You amaze me, your help on the Tech FAQ is much appreciated!
 
Fly,

If you can't find anything or get too much, check the FAQ.

Most of the topics that get repeatedly asked, I post in the FAQ. I try to catch them all, but I do miss some. If you go into the FAQ you can search just that forum and reduce your results. I add post titles to catch search critera.

Anyway, this was discussed in more depth than you care to know and how RiverRat got the 4mm from Art.

B-pipe cooling, routing water lines


I've read that whole thread a couple of times, but most of those recommendations are based on one line going to the headpipe and one going to the manifold.

Thank you for your helping out with that tech faq section though.:biggthumpup: I've used it plenty of times.
 
I just got off the phone with Art and he spent a great deal of time with me on the phone talking about restrictors.

This is what he recommended for my setup and the fact that I ride in 65F water in the winter and 85-90F water in the summer.

Thanks Art:biggthumpup:
 

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SUPERTUNE

Race Gas Rules
Location
Clearwater Fl.
Dan, The posting on the other pipe thread on how to set up a single line would have been just fine even for colder water we talked about, If I'm setting up a performance racing motor for cold water I do use restrictors with dual cooling. I also know how to correctly set up piston to wall clearances for making horsepower, ask Team Sea-Doo's Factory racer's I tuned for full time and won Bud Tour national Pro Titles with...(Nicolus Ruis) Like you said, there's always more than one way to do things.
 
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Dan, The PM I sent you on how to set up a single line would have been just fine even for colder water we talked about, If I'm setting up a performance racing motor for cold water I do use restrictors with dual cooling. I also know how to correctly set up piston to wall clearances for making horsepower, ask Team Sea-Doo's Factory racer's I tuned for full time and won Bud Tour national Pro Titles with...(Nicolus Ruis) Like you said, there's always more than one way to do things.

Yeah I was planning on running single cooling, but I decided to go with dual cooling just for the safety factor. I know I don't have to worry about keeping the engine cool, but I ride in some dirty water sometimes and I like that security. I plan on using the restrictor recommendation for dual cooling that Art gave me for now.

What's great about his restrictors are that each restrictor comes with multiple size restrictors so I'll be able to fine tune the cooling as water temperatures fluctuate throughout the year.

Thanks for the reply and all of the help Chucky:biggthumpup:

PS I don't know if you remember me or not, but I was the guy that brought you that Blaster that had a stiff crank and that was supposed to have an Advent, but didn't.

Chucky really took the time to look over that ski with me and explain a ton of things I didn't know about. Thanks Chucky. I owe you one.

I dont know if I told you, but I decided not to buy that blaster and I ended finding a better one.
 
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This is a good number of posts on just water routing. I wonder how many it would take to decide on some more elaborate modifications. Like porting and compression issues
 
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