Can I grind this down? Need help ASAP pls.

I'm setting up a Pro-Tec trim system with custom hardware, etc so it has lots of travel. I will need to trim the rear lip of the hull but I notice that the nozzle will also hit each corner of the pump area if I turn sharp with full up trim. I don't want to trim the nozzle length because it would have to be too short to steer well.
Has anyone ground down the corners of the pump area for nozzle clearance?

2009-06-1013-05-04-0002b.jpg
 

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
I'm assuming this is a SJ from the looks but not positive. The fiberglass there is roughly 0.100"-0.150" thick. Although it seems like it'd be easy to use up trim and turn to full lock...it's not! I really don't think you need to worry about it. If you modified your trim to give you a lot of travel, you probably won't even be able to turn at full up trim. Even when making a setup wake, I could never use full trim and turn because you just don't turn. You can go half and half but I doubt you can go to full lock on both.
 
you can trim it, but you'll have to put some fiberglass over the newly exposed foam. It's not a big deal if you've done any basic glasswork before.
 
I'm assuming this is a SJ from the looks but not positive. The fiberglass there is roughly 0.100"-0.150" thick. Although it seems like it'd be easy to use up trim and turn to full lock...it's not! I really don't think you need to worry about it. If you modified your trim to give you a lot of travel, you probably won't even be able to turn at full up trim. Even when making a setup wake, I could never use full trim and turn because you just don't turn. You can go half and half but I doubt you can go to full lock on both.

Thanks for the quick responses! Having never even tried trim on a Super Jet, this is the kind of info I'm looking for. However, glass work is no big deal to me either so I'm inclined to take it down a bit.
What about nose stabs...would you not use trim and full turn in that situation?
I prefer to set it up so there is no binding anywhere in the nozzle's travel.
 

wydopen

onthepipe
Thanks for the quick responses! Having never even tried trim on a Super Jet, this is the kind of info I'm looking for. However, glass work is no big deal to me either so I'm inclined to take it down a bit.
What about nose stabs...would you not use trim and full turn in that situation?
I prefer to set it up so there is no binding anywhere in the nozzle's travel.

i know this is not what you want to hear but dont even bother puting that trim on there...unless you have a motor that can do flatwater backflips its pointless...for some reason people on here think its a good idea to waste time and money on..the last thing most standup riders need is to have their nose any higher when they jump haha..just save yourself the headache and sell it..thats the best advise you are going to get...dan is right..why would you sacrifice steering throw for trim??

and if u decide your going to put it on anyways my first SJ had a protec trim nozzle minus the trim ring and stuff and it was cut down WAY short and worked fine
 
Last edited:
i know this is not what you want to hear but dont even bother puting that trim on there...unless you have a motor that can do flatwater backflips its pointless...for some reason people on here think its a good idea to waste time and money on..just save yourself the headache and sell it..thats the best advise you are going to get...dan is right..why would you sacrifice steering throw for trim??

and if u decide your going to put it on anyways my first SJ had a protec trim nozzle minus the trim ring and stuff and it was cut down WAY short and worked fine

i have the steering nozzle on one of my boats trimmed back about 1" and did not notice 1 bit of difference...there's room to make it shorter
 
i know this is not what you want to hear but dont even bother puting that trim on there...unless you have a motor that can do flatwater backflips its pointless.....why would you sacrifice steering throw for trim??

That's a good point and back flips are a main reason to put this thing on. If I could already do flat water back flips, I wouldn't need the trim nozzle though. Have a look at my Super Jet build thread in my signature and tell me if you think I have enough power. It feels like I do but who knows.

Also, I have this steering nozzle ground for max throw and I get even more throw now than with just the turn nozzle from before. I am using the entire cable travel just as my bars hit the stops (with quick steer) and with the ball on the nozzle moved as far inward as it will go, the nozzle deflection is fantastic.

I did grind down those corners in the pump area about a half an inch and I'm still in solid fiberglass.

I'll post some pics when I'm done. Thanks again for the responses!
 
Last edited:

Kennay

Squarenose for the _____
Location
Myrtle Beach, SC
Flat water back flip = big big big big power with a modified hull

You don't have enough power by a long shot. The trim could help you in small surf or boat wakes though.
 

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
Here's one thing to think about... Your ski is most likely not powerful enough for flatwater backflips. However, if you have one nice wakeboarding boat or a big cruiser, you may be able to pull off a BF with some trim. That was my original thinking when I installed trim on my 750...I'm just spineless so I haven't tried it yet. Height? check. Balls? uhhh vagina...
 
Top Bottom