- Location
- North Jersey
Thanks for any input
Can I run 760 electronics on a 650/701 motor
- Thread starter dirtyjrzy
- Start date
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Sure but keep in mind that it retards the timing on the rear cylinder.
- Location
- Minneapolis, Minnesota
If you do you should run a 760 zeel CDI to improve your experience.
- Location
- North Jersey
Will it misfire the rear cylinder
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
No it will not misfire the rear cylinder just make it slightly retarded
bored&stroked
Urban redneck
- Location
- AZ
I currently have a 760 setup on a 61x lower end and 62t cylinder. Yamahas are like lego's.
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- Location
- North Jersey
Will a retarte timing cause overheating issues??Should I adjust the timing by forwarding it a degreee or reversing it so for it not to burn up
The 760 ignition was designed to prevent burning a piston while running on low octane gas. None of the 650-760 OEM ignitions have enough, or any, retard curve. This creates a compromise between good throttle response and burning a piston. To get the most performance you must be sure about your fuel, compression, ignition timing, and carb mixture. Otherwise its easy to stick a piston, takes about 10 seconds. There is a balancing act between these items. Very high octane fuel allows you to run everything hotter. With pump gas you need to retard the ignition timing at high rpm and make sure the carb mixture is on the rich side of peak power. Doing enough of these two things will always save the day. You will never know what the limits are without sticking a piston.
- Location
- North Jersey
Do I need to adjust the stator on the flywheel cover or leave it as stock I'm rilunning 93 octane and 40:1 should I be at 32:1 I pre-mix every thing
bored&stroked
Urban redneck
- Location
- AZ
50:1 on stock motors.
I run 40:1 on modded.
You can advance the timing a couple degrees if you are running 91. You can also grind the little retard nub off the 760 flywheel so it doesn't retard the rear cylinder timing.
I run 40:1 on modded.
You can advance the timing a couple degrees if you are running 91. You can also grind the little retard nub off the 760 flywheel so it doesn't retard the rear cylinder timing.
I have run oil mixes from 100:1 to 16:1 in watercraft. Now I use cheap TCW3 at 3% or 32:1. Less oil makes the piston dirtier and makes the exhaust drier. Different oil types will show different characteristics. If you want something a little better than common boat oil, Maxima Super M is a higher temp oil that is relatively cheap and works well in watercraft. Avoid expensive oil because it has little corrosion resistance.
- Location
- Red Bluff CA
Can you explain the logic in less oil making the piston dirtier.
In rotax engines. Which have to be de carboned as per a schedule. Have continuously shown less carbon build-up at lower oil ratios vs fuel. With the 100:1 amsoil actually showing the least amount of carbon build up by far.
Does the fact that these 2 strokes are cooled by water have anything to do with your statement?
The running temp plays a large part. Hotter running pistons will burn off more of the oil leaving the oils detergent in a dry form to keep carbon from sticking. Aircooled oil has particles (ash) that prevent carbon from sticking. Most marine applications run cooler so everything stays wet and carbon gets washed away by a type of detergent that works while wet. Thats why TCW3 is no good for hot applications and aircooled oil is less than ideal for boats. A pure high temp oil that has no additives, like castor or Klots KL-200 rely on higher mix ratios to keep the rings washed clean. Racing oils may have completely different characteristics depending on how its designed. Large MFGs do the best they can with the cheapest material, thats why we have cheap "spec" oils. Racing oil blenders do whatever and they can be better, or worse. Redline Kart oil is extremely clean and works at the hottest temps, its also nearly $100/gal.