carbs loading up after shutdown

[billglass]

What can be causing the carbs to load up after shutting engine off. I have to hold throttle full open to start. I am trying to get this thing tuned in. One thing bad about these taper bores is that I have no one to compare to. I tried increasing pop off to 32 and it was too lean on the low end. ski wouldn't get going. I have only had this problem since winter build when I increases compressiong with ada head and changes reeds to the ones Jetworks sells for the boyensen RAD valves. Here are mods and settings:
Mods are taper bored 38 by group k, r&d arrestors, ADA head 185 compression, dual cooling, rrp pipe. Lightened flywheel by group k MSD ignition enhancer, ngk coil and wires. Fuel air separator by group k. That's it for engine mods. Oh carbon fiber reeds by Jetworks that go on boyensen RAD cages. Jetting 150hsj 90lsj 1 3/4 turn hss and 1 lss pop off 25. right now idles fine at 1 turn out on low speed screw. I hit gas and seems like it's loaded up. I have to pump the gas a little to get it cleared out. I did notice when I took reeds off three rides ago the one pedal did not seal all the way. Thanks for any help. Oh, I have read every carb tuning article out there.

 

[billglass]

 

[billglass]

Not to mention this weird plug reading. Which seems to be like a air leak or something in one cylinder

 

[billglass]

Solved the lean front cylinder problem. carb gasket on front cylinder ripped during last carb adjustment.

 

[Mike W]

I believe in you other post you had a B pipe. Try the factory pipe recommendations and go from there.

 

[billglass]

took the intake manifold out and definately the front reeds don't seal close. I can push them closed. It's just a tiny bit, but I can feel the difference between the front pair and the back pair.

 

[billglass]

Does factory pipe have a recommendation for taper bore carbs? I haven't seen one post and a billion forums of jetting for taper bored carbs

 

[Vumad]

What can be causing the carbs to load up after shutting engine off. I have to hold throttle full open to start. I am trying to get this thing tuned in. One thing bad about these taper bores is that I have no one to compare to. I tried increasing pop off to 32 and it was too lean on the low end. ski wouldn't get going. I have only had this problem since winter build when I increases compressiong with ada head and changes reeds to the ones Jetworks sells for the boyensen RAD valves. Here are mods and settings:
Mods are taper bored 38 by group k, r&d arrestors, ADA head 185 compression, dual cooling, rrp pipe. Lightened flywheel by group k MSD ignition enhancer, ngk coil and wires. Fuel air separator by group k. That's it for engine mods. Oh carbon fiber reeds by Jetworks that go on boyensen RAD cages. Jetting 150hsj 90lsj 1 3/4 turn hss and 1 lss pop off 25. right now idles fine at 1 turn out on low speed screw. I hit gas and seems like it's loaded up. I have to pump the gas a little to get it cleared out. I did notice when I took reeds off three rides ago the one pedal did not seal all the way. Thanks for any help. Oh, I have read every carb tuning article out there.

Did you try going up 1 pilot size with the higher popoff

 

[billglass]

No I didn't try that. Maybe I'll give it a try

 

[tuneman]

I had a similar issue with my SPX last season, unable to start after shutdown. It turned out to be a leaky oring seal. Maybe not your issue, but something to consider. If the top of one of your pistons is shiny clean or there's gray sludge, it's a water leak.

 

[billglass]

My plan is to replace seats in carbs and test with pop-off to make sure not leaking.. install new vforce reeds since mine weren't sealing closed.. use new gaskets to see see if that was the air leak(most likely since gasket was ripped) and retorque ADA head ... Then let 'er rip to see what she does. Then, back to carb tuning if needed at that point. But I need all the basics intact and working.

 

[Quinc]

My plan is to replace seats in carbs and test with pop-off to make sure not leaking.. install new vforce reeds since mine weren't sealing closed.. use new gaskets to see see if that was the air leak(most likely since gasket was ripped) and retorque ADA head ... Then let 'er rip to see what she does. Then, back to carb tuning if needed at that point. But I need all the basics intact and working.

Just replace the oring on the seat and the needle. (tips of the needle will wear out and leak.) No need to replace the seat itself unless you are changing your pop off.

 

[billglass]

Got it.

 

[billglass]

Not sure which fixed it, the new seats, vforce reeds, gaskets, adjusting low speed screw 1/4 turn. Already sounding like a beast oh the hose on the trailer. can't wait to try it out.