Blaster Cooling with stock head---- 1/8" barb

Location
NH
Hey guys,

I just put on a Factory Mod pipe which prompted some cooling changes.
I still have single cooling and a stock head for now.

at current, my cooling is routed as such:

Pump to Exh Manifold
3/8" head barb to bottom/back of head pipe
top/front of head pipe to pisser

this leaves my 1/8" barb on the Mag cylinder head untouched, so i adapted it from 1/8" to 3/8" and ran it to my stinger.

Has anyone simply blocked off the 1/8" fitting, ran the stinger on a Tee from the pisser, and not had cooling issues on the front cylinder?
OR- has anyone drilled out the 1/8" fitting and installed a 3/8" fitting in its place?

I have a Riva head to install later, I'm just trying to go 1 step at a time and appreciate the mods as I go.

Thoughts/suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks.
 

BlasterDisaster

Back Flips & Barrel Rolls
Location
Wilmington, NC
if you only have 1 supply of cooling water coming to the motor, you only want one output to the pisser/stinger. you need to drill and tap the pump for dual cooling if you truly want to run dual cooling, otherwise you will only use one of the water barbs on the head and the other should be capped off.
 
Location
Orlando
I re-routed the rear pisser line into the second cooling line going into the head. Works great and no need to drill into my pump.
 

h2odesperado

Pin it to win it
Location
Charlotte, NC
In my experience when I dumped the water from a stock head overboard, it took cooling water away from the exhaust. This was apparent due to increased exhaust noise, as well as I cooked my long rubber exhaust hose.

Running a b pipe on a stock head as well.

Just my .02 cents
 

FlightPlanDan

Don'tTrustAfartAfter50
Hey guys,

I just put on a Factory Mod pipe which prompted some cooling changes.
I still have single cooling and a stock head for now.

at current, my cooling is routed as such:

Pump to Exh Manifold
3/8" head barb to bottom/back of head pipe
top/front of head pipe to pisser

this leaves my 1/8" barb on the Mag cylinder head untouched, so i adapted it from 1/8" to 3/8" and ran it to my stinger.

Has anyone simply blocked off the 1/8" fitting, ran the stinger on a Tee from the pisser, and not had cooling issues on the front cylinder?
OR- has anyone drilled out the 1/8" fitting and installed a 3/8" fitting in its place?

I have a Riva head to install later, I'm just trying to go 1 step at a time and appreciate the mods as I go.

Thoughts/suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks.


Although I have sj's..My wifes' ski has a b-pipe with a mod chamber and a stock head. I bought the pipe direct from Factory. It came with instructions. The 1/8" barbed fitting that used to go to your stock exhaust is no longer needed at all. Even if you have stock (single) cooling. The rubber cap and zip-tie to close it off were included along with both of the pipes that I've purchased from them.
I wish I kept the instructions.....
 
Last edited:
Location
dfw
A stock head gasket make multiple outlet locations less inportant. I would use two with an ADA head. Take the head outlet and split it between the pipe and pisser. The pipe will have less pressure than with a dedicated line so the screws may need to be opened a little more.
 
Location
NH
Thanks for the responses guys
I'll bring some cooling lines & fittings to the water and see how it goes.
I'm glad to hear that the 1/8" barb is called to be blocked off by factory pipe, and it makes sense that the stock head gasket baises cooling as required...that 1/8" line doesn't move much water even with a stock pipe...
 
Location
Orlando
now i'm worried haha. i wonder if maybe i threaded the brass fittings into the exhaust manifold too deep bc my ski was definitely running horribly like that....

I tapped the cylinder head for a second inlet to cool the motor. The squirter line was ran back into the hull through the scupper pick up and then into the head. I never tapped the exhaust manifold. I could post pics later if you need.
 
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