couple blaster ?'s...

So I picked up a 96 blaster with a factory limited pipe on it the other day and I am having a problem with it and have a couple questions.

1. When I start the boat out of the water it goes from a slow idle to reving really high without me touching the throttle. I've got the idle setting backed out all the way and the idle setting screw doesn't even touch the throttle linkage with it backed out all the way so I thought I had a problem with my cable not being long enough. Well then I found out when I start it and hold down the throttle linkage it doesn't rev uncontrollably. Is there any way vibrations are causing the throttle to rev up? Please help its pretty much impossible to flush out my ski. Ironically it runs fine when in the water.

2. Do you have to take the head pipe off the exhaust manifold or can you just take off the limited chamber when removing the motor out of a blaster.


Thanks,
Dan
 
Last edited:
can you burn up a topend that way? it runs great in the water. have I been hurting the engine by running it in the water with that air leak?

do you think a carb rebuild will fix it?
 
Remove the throttle cable from carb and see if it still does it. If it doesn't, try moving the set nuts further down on the cable (at carb). Your throttle cable may need replacing due to a loose strand getting caught in the jacket.

FLY6584 said:
can you burn up a topend that way? it runs great in the water. have I been hurting the engine by running it in the water with that air leak?

do you think a carb rebuild will fix it?
Yes and they always runs best just before they stuff & spit parts.

While rebuilding or going through the carbs may be a good idea, it shouldn't help your air leak (unless its the carb base gaskets). Check your carb, intake manifold & reed gaskets for damage. Start with that.
 
Last edited:
so do you think the top end has been damaged? do I need to pull the head and check for anything? after I fix this air leak am i going to need to rebuild the top end?
well sh*t, I'm pretty bummed out now. I am supposed to go to Sebastian next weekend and my mechanic is completely booked up for 2 weeks. i've got a little wrenching experience, but not enough to do a complete rebuild.
 

WaveDemon

Not Dead - Notable Member
Location
Hell, Florida
just because you have an air leak doesn't mean you need a top end. you probably don't. I'd say a leak down test is a good Idea, unfortunately they're not real easy to do in the ski but doable (pressurizing the motor is easy finding the leak can be hard). If you need a leak down tester I could lend you mine, you'll need to buy plugs for your intake since my kit is for a single carb 701. If you think you are running too lean from an air leak you could pull the plugs and look at the porcelin tips and look for little specs. If they're specs there it could be bits of aluminum from your pistons, pull the head and look at the piston tops for damage.

A complete rebuild can be done in a few hours or a couple of nights after work. it sucks to do it on a new ski but better than blowing it up. Or you could be a gambler and see how it goes, do you feel lucky? I'm a bit of a gambler

You should also know I blow poop up all the time and you should take my advise with caution.


no warranties expressed or implied. :biggrin:
 

WaveDemon

Not Dead - Notable Member
Location
Hell, Florida
yamasaki said:
it could be.. it could just be a loose bolt.. see what we're saying..

i'm sure your top-end is fine, dont sweat it. just try to chase down that air leak. take your time. these skis are easy to work on.

do you have a pic of your engine so we could see if you have 61x cases or 62t cases? if you have 61x cases, it'll be easy cheezy to redo your intake setup..
a 96 should be 62t...
 
its a 62t. stock heads use gaskets right? so if I pull the head I'll need to replace the gasket? if I had an aftermarket girdled head like an ADA would I be able to pull the head everynow and then to check the pistons without having to replace the gasket everytime. They use o-rings right? I'm still learning.

I'm going to go check the spark plugs. I'm going to wait to pull the head until I do a leak down test.

Tim where do I get the plugs for my 62t so I can do a leak down test?
 

nikad58

1974 YZ 701
bad return spring ? worn butterfies ? did you check where the low speed screws are set ?? I have bought a few ski's (one two weeks ago) that had the pilot screws turned all the way in.. try putting your low speed screws at 1 1/4 turns out, then check your highs too !
 
Last edited:
I'd appreciate it Tim. I was trying to get it into to Chuckys at Team Scream, but he's got his hands full right now building a stroker for some guy in Russia who needs it quick.

whats your schedule the rest of the week look like?
 

WaveDemon

Not Dead - Notable Member
Location
Hell, Florida
FLY6584 said:
its a 62t. stock heads use gaskets right? so if I pull the head I'll need to replace the gasket? if I had an aftermarket girdled head like an ADA would I be able to pull the head everynow and then to check the pistons without having to replace the gasket everytime. They use o-rings right? I'm still learning.
right


FLY6584 said:
Tim where do I get the plugs for my 62t so I can do a leak down test?
you can get rubber freeze plugs from an auto parts store. The kind with the bolt in the middle that you crush to make them expand.
 
nikad58 said:
bad return spring ? worn butterfies ? did you check where the low speed screws are set ?? I have bought a few ski's (one two weeks ago) that had the pilot screws turned all the way in.. try putting your low speed screws at 1 1/4 turns out, then check your highs too !

you know I think it could be worn butterflys. when i pushed down on the throttle linkage with my finger it seemed to idle better. does this sound right?
 

WaveDemon

Not Dead - Notable Member
Location
Hell, Florida
FLY6584 said:
I'd appreciate it Tim. I was trying to get it into to Chuckys at Team Scream, but he's got his hands full right now building a stroker for some guy in Russia who needs it quick.

whats your schedule the rest of the week look like?
I'm abavalable after 6pm on friday, moring and early afternoon Sat, and most of the day sunday.
 
Tim,

Reed and I were talking about riding on Friday afternoon, so I might just come up to your area and maybe you guys could help me figure this thing out so I've got a ski to ride for Sebastian.

I'll bring the beer.:beerchug:

I'll talk to you guys later on this week. if friday night's not good. no worries. we'll figure something else out.

thanks for the advice
 

crammit442

makin' legs
Location
here
FLY6584 said:
So I picked up a 96 blaster with a factory limited pipe on it the other day and I am having a problem with it and have a couple questions.

1. When I start the boat out of the water it goes from a slow idle to reving really high without me touching the throttle. I've got the idle setting backed out all the way and the idle setting screw doesn't even touch the throttle linkage with it backed out all the way so I thought I had a problem with my cable not being long enough. Well then I found out when I start it and hold down the throttle linkage it doesn't rev uncontrollably. Is there any way vibrations are causing the throttle to rev up? Please help its pretty much impossible to flush out my ski. Ironically it runs fine when in the water.

2. Do you have to take the head pipe off the exhaust manifold or can you just take off the limited chamber when removing the motor out of a blaster.


Thanks,
Dan

While you may have an air leak, this doesn't sound like one to me. If you did, holding the throttle closed would NOT stop the high revs. It sounds more like a sticky cable or linkage,etc. Next time you crank your motor and it revs, blip the throttle a couple of times and see if it resumes normal idling. Make sure the throttle shaft rotates freely and COMPLETELY returns when released. Good luck!:biggthumpup:

Charles
 

WaveDemon

Not Dead - Notable Member
Location
Hell, Florida
crammit442 said:
While you may have an air leak, this doesn't sound like one to me. If you did, holding the throttle closed would NOT stop the high revs. It sounds more like a sticky cable or linkage,etc. Next time you crank your motor and it revs, blip the throttle a couple of times and see if it resumes normal idling. Make sure the throttle shaft rotates freely and COMPLETELY returns when released. Good luck!:biggthumpup:

Charles
good catch. listen to crammit.
 
crammit,

i did try disconnecting the cable and it still reved up. I'm still not positive that by me pushing down the throttle linkage remedied the problem. it was late and my neighbors were'nt too happy with me. for the 5 seconds i tryed holding it down it ran fine, but I won't be convinced until I have the chance to hook up a hose and see if it really does fix it

i'll try it tomorrow and see if it this actually does work.
 
Top Bottom