Coupler Alignment Issue

I recently bought this EME Micro FR hull and I am putting my 701 engine into it. Pump was installed before I bought it. The engine side coupler sits about 3-4 mm higher than the drive coupler. Shimming would not make a difference because it would only be more off then. I am using stock mounts and a stock bed plate with the specific couplers made for yamaha conversion.

Any reccommendations? Would shaving the engine mounts down be a bad idea? I could always just realign the pump to be matched up perfectly with where the engine wants to sit but I am trying to seek the best option.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
Seeing you just got the hull, I'd lull off the midshaft entirely to check the pump alignment. The midshaft looks to be tight against the hull, so that's not where your height difference is from.
Are those the motor mounts that came with the hull, or are they your personal ones?

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DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
You can drill open or oblong the holes in your motor mounts to space them further out thus lowering the entire driveline. Then just use shims and shim up level
 

Yami-Rider

TigerCraft FV-PRO
Location
Texoma
I've ran into this before. Couple ways you can fix it. Buy custom higth mounts from rhaas. Sand down the base of the bottom of the mounts. Sand down the bottom of the bedplates. Oblong the holes in the motor mounts and slide them further out from center of the hull.
 
Seeing you just got the hull, I'd lull off the midshaft entirely to check the pump alignment. The midshaft looks to be tight against the hull, so that's not where your height difference is from.
Are those the motor mounts that came with the hull, or are they your personal ones?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I am using stock superjet mounts that were with this engine out of my sj. Custom mounts or a shaved bed plate might be the best way to go.
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
I would take the height off of the bed plates then shim from there. Don't weaken a already weak part like a motor mount.
Have you seen the aluminum portion of a motor mount broke? Maybe they break but i've never seen or hurd them breaking b/c people mill down or oblong the holes. But agree. Bed plates its probable the best solution just not the easiest.
 
Have you seen the aluminum portion of a motor mount broke? Maybe they break but i've never seen or hurd them breaking b/c people mill down or oblong the holes. But agree. Bed plates its probable the best solution just not the easiest.

No I haven't, but there is more meat on the bed plates, and a set of bed plates can be had cheaper than motor mounts if you screw them up!
 
The guy who sold it to him is me. When i ran into this issue it wasnt as bad. i always had a little bit of a difference in height from the midshaft to the motor.

The way i fixed it and this is they way EME told me to do it was shim the back of the pump and then also shim the conversion piece that the midshaft bolts to.

I always thought this was a little iffy, it worked with no problems but if you have the time i would take it out of the bed plates.
 
I would probably shim the back of the pump and drill out rear motor mount holes and slide them towards hull, should be enough because pump shims can raise the driveshaft alot.
 
If I were to shave the Bedplate, considering the coupler needs to drop 3-4mm, how much should I shave off the bedplate? 3 mm?

Would that still be strong enough to hold the motor?
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
If I were to shave the Bedplate, considering the coupler needs to drop 3-4mm, how much should I shave off the bedplate? 3 mm?

Would that still be strong enough to hold the motor?

Its dampened by rubber of the motor mounts , the rubber will absorb the majority of the stress, so not as much will be put on the bed plate to begin with. At least that's my theory of why it's fine.

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