coupler removal

[bigpine007]

Are the coupler threads standard or reverse thread? I tried taking it off earlier and it was pretty snug. Just wanted to make sure.

 

[Waternut]

They're standard... Use some heat from a blow torch or something. The couplers are aluminum and the crank is steel so the aluminum will expand before the steel making the gap between the threads bigger and therefore easier to remove.

 

[grezzmky]

doesnt take a lot, propane does the trick

 

[steve-uk]

just took mine off tonight, clamped an old drive shaft in the vice, dropped on the mishaft.. heat for a bout 20-30 secs... used a lever through the coupler came off no problem

 

[frogsmasha]

Okay just to make sure. Righty tighty, and Lefty Loosie right?
I'm going to be doing this soon.

Zank you :>

 

[Tyler Zane]

Okay just to make sure. Righty tighty, and Lefty Loosie right?

lol, aint heard that in a while.



besides the rope trick what other way do yall get the engine side off? anyone ever use blocks of wood and and a extesion threw the rod end? of course i wouldnt take the cylinder off just to do this but my cylinder will be off anyways...

 

[frogsmasha]

Didn't have to try the rope trick. We just wrapped the crank in some cloth and layed it within a big vise and went to town. Pure strength with no heat did the trick.

 

[Motorheads5]

Didn't have to try the rope trick. We just wrapped the crank in some cloth and layed it within a big vise and went to town. Pure strength with no heat did the trick.

Not reccomended

 

[weston]

use a coupler removal tool and a good impact.

 

[JetManiac]

Be careful with heat around the crank seals!

 

[Watcon]

This will keep your couplers intact.... http://www.watcon.com/Catalog_Pages/DC-800_Drive_Coupler_Removal_Tool.htm

 

[Sospikey]

Not reccomended

Educate me; why not? Honest question, no pun intended.

 

[Tyler Zane]

Educate me; why not? Honest question, no pun intended.

i would say because when you clamp it down your putting pressure on the counter weights. being in the cases all the pressure is going where its intended.

 

[ArtMaybee]

Clamping the crank down in a vise and then torqing down on it could undo all the work somebody did to get that thing true and straight. Like Tzane said, at least in the cases, the crank is supported at the bearings. You really should use heat unless you have the right tool and an impact. Even with it in the cases, it's probably a better practice if you do everything you can to avoid demonstrating feats of strength with anything on your ski. Especially anything in direct contact with your crank. The crank is pressed together and using a ratchet, pull-bar, etc will put a LOT of side-load on your crank. Even supported by the cases, it's a risk you probably shouldn't be taking. An impact isn't going to introduce any side loads on the crank so is much safer. If you are worried about the seals, keep your flame small and focused on the far side of the coupler. Aluminum is a great conductor of heat so the WHOLE thing will get hot no matter where you have the flame. If you have an impact, put the tool on it and give it a quick try before using heat. It may come right off. If not, then use heat.

I wouldn't make such a big deal out of putting huge side-loads on the crank but some of the blows used in truing probably aren't putting as as much force into the crank as the side-load of cranking down with a pull-bar.

 

[weston]

Oh my god guys this is very simple.
Use a coupler removal tool and an impact if its realy on there take the flywheel cover off and put a glove on hold the flywheel with your gloved hand.
Or you could go all backyard machanic and risk destroying something.
the choice is yours.