Cutting the front lip off a square

[SkiDiggity]

Hi everyone,

So I lawndarted the ski the other weekend in pismo and did some good damage as you can see below. I was thinking to just cut the whole lip off and fiberglassing over the bond line to reinforce it. Or should I try to fiberglass the piece that broke off back on?

Are there any drawbacks of cutting off the lip? Would I need to reinforce it Fromm the inside as well?

 

[Pablo]

Might get some face spray is the only drawback I've ever seen.

 

[227]

Bad idea- Especially if you're a surf rider. Losing the front bond rail served a purpose for Flat water riders when it was first introduced on the Rickters back in the day. It was meant to facilitate recovery from FL flips because they couldn't get the height that they're getting now thanks to the high HP engines available today. Losing the bond rail offers zero benefits on a surf boat, actually it's a negative as you'll get spray in your face and it will pearl easier.

 

[eastcoastjumper]

glue some turf back on and call it a day. lol

Would be easy enough to do a little grinder clean up and use thick biax to remake/reinforce the front lip. same for inside hull. Clean it out real good, sand and skuff and lay some in there if the crack went through. Gonna have to take the stock foam out of the nose to check.

 

[SkiPro]

F it... Ride it..

 

[simofx-1]

how did u lawn dart it?

 

[BruceSki]

What the surf guys said. Fix it from inside and fix the front. That's an easy job there and will be bulletproof afterwards if you do it right.

 

[SkiDiggity]

Thanks for the feed back. I did a reentry in shallow water landing nose down on top of the wave and pearled bad..

So I still have the front piece that broke off. Should I glue it in place with some epoxy then grind around the cracked area, rebuild with glass, then a big sheet all around?

Also I remember trying to get the stock foam out and never being able to accomplish it. Can you do it with it in one piece?

 

[BruceSki]

Stock foam gets damaged trying to pull it out. I put mine back in my square then glasses over it so I don't sink the boat if I ever hit the nose again.

 

[Nate_D]

I wouldn't bother trying to patch in the broken piece. Use some XPS foam behind/under the bond rail. Cut it to fit, then cover it with something that will release from epoxy. I like metallic duct tape. Tack it in place with gorilla glue to the back of the existing rails so it follows the lines, then lay some 19oz biax over it and the outside of the good rails. Once that cures, remove the foam and shape the area with body filler. Then lay several more layers of biax over the whole nose area from the outside, down under the rail. Rip the foam out of the Nose and glass the inside. Like bruceski said, I doubt you will get the stock foam out in one piece.


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[SkiDiggity]

Man sounds like i have bit off a bit more than I can chew. I will see what I can do. What is the difference of making my own piece rather than using the old piece that fits back in place just fine?

 

[BruceSki]

You can use the old piece of you want. Make sure to grind everything out real well and lay it all up in one shot. Mix some cabosil up to peanut butter consistency and spread it over the cracks to let the fresh glass lay smooth.

The importance is in the prep here.

Even if you end up with air pockets, you can always grind out and lay another layer. That's the beauty of fiberglass repair work even if you're a noob. The extra few pounds you add won't hurt any in surf either.

 

[SkiDiggity]

Thanks Bruceski.

My tray is waterlogged and reinforced pretty heavily so i am not really worried about weight. This ski is a giant turd anyhow. Just need to be able to ride it and have it float until I can upgrade.

I think I will try it first with the piece I have since I limited on funds. When doing the inside do I need to stand the ski up on the nose or just turn it upside down and fiberglass it from underneath?

 

[Nate_D]

What is the difference of making my own piece rather than using the old piece that fits back in place just fine?

I didn't mean to make it sound complicated. The main difference is in getting it to fit in place. If it is one large chunk that will go back in place pretty well, then by all means use that. If it is a bunch of small pieces and/or has a lot of gaps, it's going to be a pain in the ass to try to line it all up and keep it in place. Just make sure it is prepped well and you lay the fabric around the whole area, not just over the outside of the rail.


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[Quinc]

Cut it off and rocker it. =)

 

[SkiDiggity]

Thank's @Nate_D! If I was as handy as you I would reshape the whole nose.

Quinc I really want to, but I am saving up for a better hull. THis thing is old, tired and beaten up haha

 

[BruceSki]

Definitely easier to lay it on the nose. You can lay the glass better than way with your arms in the hull

 

[mthomps]

So tell me if I'm crazy?

The way I'd handle this is to re create the bond line with 2 lbs 2 pt foam and sand the curve to lay on the outside. Grind the foam away and reinforce the re created bondline from the inside.

For the nose I'd do it all from the inside and sand/finish the outside for looks. If that makes any sense?

 

[BruceSki]

Too much work for a waterlogged beater. I would tape cardboard wrapped in duct tape on the inside of the bond line and lay glass right over the outside of that shiz.

 

[SkiDiggity]

@BruceSki that is pretty much what i am gonna do. Just going to heavily glass the outside and lay some cloth on the inside. The crack is really quite long to just going to build up as much as possible for strength. Not too worried about a couple pounds in added weight.