Damage from not properly winterizing

Wakerider26

Peter Waldron -doing jetski tricks
Location
Alabama
I'm curious to hear any stories of skis being damaged from not winterizing. I have heard horror stories about wake boats cracking blocks, but not really any jet ski incidents. I have had Superjets, custom freestyle skis, Yami sit downs, and Seadoo sit downs and always do my best to get water out, fog, stabilize fuel, and keep batteries charged. Luckily, I have had positive experiences year after year. Has anyone had an engine or exhaust freeze and crack? If so, what make and model was it?
 
Last edited:
Location
LOTO
Years ago I bought a beat up 96 Kawasaki ZXI 1100 for the engine core and the exhaust chamber was cracked from water that froze inside it. Most of our skis have aftermarket pipes, heads, inter-coolers and cooling mods, so none of them self drain anymore. The 100% stock ones do self drain.
 
Location
dfw
The engines in Krash skis do hold water so getting some antifreeze in them is important. Yamaha and Kawasaki’s drain well enough. I recommend running them dry until the head gets too hot to hold onto when you are done for the day. It takes longer than most people think it would. I find lots of rust inside engines that have been put away wet.
 
Location
dfw
The engines in Krash skis do hold water so getting some antifreeze in them is important. Yamaha and Kawasaki’s drain well enough. I recommend running them dry until the head gets too hot to hold onto. It takes longer than most p think it would. I see lots of rust inside engines that have been put away wet.
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Every brand is different and sometimes engines from different eras are as well, for example Seadoo 587's early year yellow motors held water in the engines cases , 92 and later engines didn't, any 587-717 past 92 is self draining, 787's and 951 hold water in the engines regardless of year model.

Most Yamaha's and Kawasakis are self draining as are late model Polaris skis , early model Polaris engines held water in the cases also , the rule of thumb is if it is an upright engine from 92 and up it is usually self draining , it the cylinders are at a slant be very worried , Seadoo 787, 951, Yamaha 800's , Kawasaki Ultras fall in this category, the other rule of thumb here is it usually has to get below 25 degrees for a couple of days before you really have to worry about one freezing and busting, if you live up North winterize it properly period.

I put antifreeze in everything, period , that way I don't have to wonder , take a hose loose at the top of the head somewhere and pour in RV antifreeze till it runs out the back of the ski and it is pink, as soon as that happens stop, it has enough antifreeze in it, On Seadoo 4 tecs the engine has antifreeze in it but the exhaust is open loop cooled so I put antifreeze in the exhaust, on any ski I put antifreeze in the waterbox so it can't freeze and break the baffles .

On older Seadoos I have seen busted cases and cylinders, of 787's it pushes the cylinder out at the top where the o-ring is and that damage is a total PITA to fix if you can find someone to even tackle it. I have also seen the case coolers on the bottom of Seadoo 787 RFI skis crack and bust or and push out away from the engine , they usually don' know anything has happened till they put their ski in the water and it sinks, I have probably done three or four of those.

Here is the rub and why I put antifreeze in everything , what if the drain on the engine is clogged up and I have seen it happen a lot especially on engines that are run in the ocean , sand builds up in there and stops up the drains then it holds water regardless of what brand or year that it is.

I have been winterizing skis since the mid 1980's I have yet to have one damaged that I winterized , one more thing winterizing isn't just about freeze protection it is also about keeping the engine internals rust free over the Winter and keeping the gas in the tank and carbs stabilized , what I usually see here from the guys that don't winterize isn't usually freeze damage it is usually carb rebuilds from sitting with untreated gas in it for 6 months I usually don't see engines rusted stuck but if you don't fog your engine then you don't really care about your engine .

Winterization right now is $125.00 , a carb clean and rebuild usually runs $300.00 and I do a ton of them every year , I never do them on skis that have been properly winterized and those skis always crank and run when I go to Summerize them , those guys I rarely see in for issues , they are out riding while everyone elses ski is in the shop getting repaired.

I have some guys that keep their skis in heated garages which is all great and wonderful until we have an ice storm and you don't have power for days, then you are screwed., I have also had guys put droplights in their skis to keep them from freezing again if the power goes out you are screwed and I have seen several people melt stuff putting drop lights in their skis.
 
Last edited:

Wakerider26

Peter Waldron -doing jetski tricks
Location
Alabama
Every brand is different and sometimes engines from different eras are as well, for example Seadoo 587's early year yellow motors held water in the engines cases , 92 and later engines didn't, any 587-717 past 92 is self draining, 787's and 951 hold water in the engines regardless of year model.

Most Yamaha's and Kawasakis are self draining as are late model Polaris skis , early model Polaris engines held water in the cases also , the rule of thumb is if it is an upright engine from 92 and up it is usually self draining , it the cylinders are at a slant be very worried , Seadoo 787, 951, Yamaha 800's , Kawasaki Ultras fall in this category, the other rule of thumb here is it usually has to get below 25 degrees for a couple of days before you really have to worry about one freezing and busting, if you live up North winterize it properly period.

I put antifreeze in everything, period , that way I don't have to wonder , take a hose loose at the top of the head somewhere and pour in RV antifreeze till it runs out the back of the ski and it is pink, as soon as that happens stop, it has enough antifreeze in it, On Seadoo 4 tecs the engine has antifreeze in it but the exhaust is open loop cooled so I put antifreeze in the exhaust, on any ski I put antifreeze in the waterbox so it can't freeze and break the baffles .

On older Seadoos I have seen busted cases and cylinders, of 787's it pushes the cylinder out at the top where the o-ring is and that damage is a total PITA to fix if you can find someone to even tackle it. I have also seen the case coolers on the bottom of Seadoo 787 RFI skis crack and bust or and push out away from the engine , they usually don' know anything has happened till they put their ski in the water and it sinks, I have probably done three or four of those.

Here is the rub and why I put antifreeze in everything , what if the drain on the engine is clogged up and I have seen it happen a lot especially on engines that are run in the ocean , sand builds up in there and stops up the drains then it holds water regardless of what brand or year that it is.

I have been winterizing skis since the mid 1980's I have yet to have one damaged that I winterized , one more thing winterizing isn't just about freeze protection it is also about keeping the engine internals rust free over the Winter and keeping the gas in the tank and carbs stabilized , what I usually see here from the guys that don't winterize isn't usually freeze damage it is usually carb rebuilds from sitting with untreated gas in it for 6 months I usually don't see engines rusted stuck but if you don't fog your engine then you don't really care about your engine .

Winterization right now is $125.00 , a carb clean and rebuild usually runs $300.00 and I do a ton of them every year , I never do them on skis that have been properly winterized and those skis always crank and run when I go to Summerize them , those guys I rarely see in for issues , they are out riding while everyone elses ski is in the shop getting repaired.

I have some guys that keep their skis in heated garages which is all great and wonderful until we have an ice storm and you don't have power for days, then you are screwed., I have also had guys put droplights in their skis to keep them from freezing again if the power goes out you are screwed and I have seen several people melt stuff putting drop lights in their skis.
Great info. I ride year round, so I never actually “officially” winterize. Just mainly make sure water is out of the skis. I do worry sometimes if somehow there is some water in one of them when a hard freeze is coming.

I see other people on the lake with late model skis that seem to pay no attention to them, leave them on floaters, then the next year put a battery in and run the crap out of them.

It sounds like the newer skis drain water out pretty well and aren’t as susceptible to freezing.
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Great info. I ride year round, so I never actually “officially” winterize. Just mainly make sure water is out of the skis. I do worry sometimes if somehow there is some water in one of them when a hard freeze is coming.

I see other people on the lake with late model skis that seem to pay no attention to them, leave them on floaters, then the next year put a battery in and run the crap out of them.

It sounds like the newer skis drain water out pretty well and aren’t as susceptible to freezing.
Yes the Yami and Kawi four strokers are self draining the Seadoo is closed loop cooling, the only real worries are the exhaust which is always open loop cooled on any watercraft , like I said I put antifreeze in everything , it's cheap insurance.
 
A friend of mine had the head pipe crack on his 2-stroke sxr 800 once because he thought they didn't need to be winterized and left it in his backyard over the snow season. I found my OEM sj plastic pump cone split one year because the pump seals finally died and let water in and another buddy with an sxr 800 x-2 conversion had water get into his exhaust ports from not running the water out after a ride. He left it to sit because he liked his blaster more. The day he told me to pull it apart to part out I found cracked piston ring grooves in the areas of the standing water that froze. Even if my ski sits for weeks or like this year, months...I still did a full winterizing on it. The same guy with the x2 has a second blaster that hasn't seen the water in about 2 years, it still gets an annual winterizing to keep it fresh.
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
I literally just got off the phone with one of my regular customers , she has a Seadoo GTI 130SE and Winterizes her ski every year like clockwork, I haven't heard from her this year so I decided to give her a call.

The ski apparently never got run so it is still winterized from last year , while that is perfectly fine as far as the freeze protection aspect goes the Stabil I put in to stabilize the fuel is only good for 6 months , most likely it will crank and run after sitting for over a year but at this point I need to drain the old fuel out of it and start over.

I will be using Seafoam this time to hopefully get some cleaning action on the injectors if the fuel pump still works correctly , I normally would't do this but on this one I plan to back it in at the ramp and let it run for 30 minutes, Seafoam also has fuel stabilizers in it and while it isn't a miracle cure as it is advertised it will stabilize the fuel while providing some cleaning action and lubrication for the injectors.

She is also overdue for an oil change so I will do that service while I have the ski here also , she is a great customer and I have very few great customers left .
 
Last edited:
Running it for at least 30 minutes is a great idea and also what I do when a ski has been in storage for a year or more. You never know if they added ethanol blended fuel before putting it away for the year. If they did, all that condensation from warm cold changing during the cool down season will just get soaked up by the ethanol and turn into phase separation at the bottom of the tank and in the lines if it's allowed to sit for too long. Plus the ethanol will corrode any aluminum parts. There's a lot of plumbing antifreeze that is ethanol based too and is not safe for engines, aluminum and other metallic plumbing parts if allowed to sit for too long. I try to use anything that is virgin glycol like Starbrite engine safe p/a. By running the ski at the ramp you are washing all the expired protective ingredients out and replenishing with fresh new stuff, and you're evaporating any internal condensation that could be starting to form. You ever look at the underside of an oil fill cap and see some chocolate milk stuck to it? That's from not being run long and hot enough to evaporate that humidity out of there. It's not enough to discolor the engine oil but it is a sign that there is humidity inside the crank case.
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Running it for at least 30 minutes is a great idea and also what I do when a ski has been in storage for a year or more. You never know if they added ethanol blended fuel before putting it away for the year. If they did, all that condensation from warm cold changing during the cool down season will just get soaked up by the ethanol and turn into phase separation at the bottom of the tank and in the lines if it's allowed to sit for too long. Plus the ethanol will corrode any aluminum parts. There's a lot of plumbing antifreeze that is ethanol based too and is not safe for engines, aluminum and other metallic plumbing parts if allowed to sit for too long. I try to use anything that is virgin glycol like Starbrite engine safe p/a. By running the ski at the ramp you are washing all the expired protective ingredients out and replenishing with fresh new stuff, and you're evaporating any internal condensation that could be starting to form. You ever look at the underside of an oil fill cap and see some chocolate milk stuck to it? That's from not being run long and hot enough to evaporate that humidity out of there. It's not enough to discolor the engine oil but it is a sign that there is humidity inside the crank case.
Yes I have seen exactly what you are talking about on oil caps before.

Part of the flush out procedure on a 4tec after it sinks is to pinch a cooling hose off and let it heat up basically boiling the water out of the oil or you can just run it for an hour , I usually just run the ski for an hour and charge the customer for being a dumbass.
 
Location
TEXAS
What do ya'll think about garaging skis on the TX coast? We never winterize, well, anything, so I just filled the tank up with pump (SJ1050 4stroke), brapp'd it, opened the drain holes, and it's been sittin'.

My garage is insulated, even the doors, I'm pretty sure it won't hard freeze inside the garage. We got that whole storm coming.

I think it'll be fine but I did have a 'maybe I should, idk, do something'? I might place a heater in there and a thermometer relay to trip on at 32 or something idk. May just not worry about it.
 
Location
dfw
If there is enough water in an engine to freeze then theres enough to cause major corrosion. Two strokes can handle a little water in the engine for short periods because the premix covers everything. The oil film will eventually break down and rust will form. Four stroke valves will corrode quickly if they are bare carbon steel. Water in the oil will eventually cause rust, it just takes longer. Freeze damage turns a chronic problem into an acute one.
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Those that have not winterized prepare to be penalized , who said that , I did.

I mean really , did you forget how much that ski cost you , seems to me the smart thing to do would be winterize it to be safe .
 
Last edited:
My rule of thumb is if you expect it to be 3+ months before you can get out on it again and it's not summer where you can do random trailer runs just to keep the oil semi-suspended through the motor, then you should winterize it. Anything that sits for long durations and hasn't been conditioned for it is going to have issues if not sooner, definitely later. My ski is a 96 sj that I have put tons of time into for restoration and all the fun stuff we do to them for mods, it's not nearly as pricetag worthy a new ski but I put a lot of time into it and it's the only ski I have with no foreseeable ability to afford another. I want it to live as long as possible. For the 60 bux or so it costs to properly winterize it and have enough left over supplies to do it again multiple times should I bring out of storage for one more ride is far better than leaving it dry. A basic 4-stroke ski winterizing takes an oil change and filter, fuel stabilizer, plumbing antifreeze flush and a light shot of fogging oil down the spark plug holes at the end. Roll it over to blow out the excess fogging oil, plugs back in and disconnect the battery. An hour +/- a little bit depending on oil volume and how long it takes to vacuum out the cold oil and now your motor is protected from storage damage. For $60 and let's say 2 hours of my time if I'm really being thorough and looking everything over, lubing all pivot points that use it like needle bearing quick steer plates, cables, pump inspection etc, it's worth every minute of it. It's a one and done process for the year, unless you break it out for one more ride then all you really need to repeat is top up the fuel with stabilized fuel, plumbing antifreeze flush, fog the top of the pistons and roll out the excess, disconnect battery and back to the garage with it. The only added expense would be another jug of plumbing antifreeze because the other supplies should give you loads of additional winterizations =)
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
I just fog the engine and try to kill it with the fogging oil, that way the fogging oil hits all the important parts, moving or stationary , two stroke or four stroke , doesn't matter ,it hasn't failed me yet.

The amount of disassembly it would take to remove the plugs on some of these four-strokers especially Seadoos makes it cost prohibitive to do it that way for me , on a Seadoo Spark you would have to split the hulls to do it this way, no thanks , if it is your personal ski and you are doing the work then go for it .

I used to use Stabil fogging oil but I found this locally , it is very waxy and it doesn't easily wash off making it ideal for fogging , the closest product I can compare it to is Cosmaline which is what is used by the US military , it also has propane as a propellant so an engine will run off of it , I have very good results with it and I use it for starting engines as well.

 
Last edited:
Top Bottom