Damage from not properly winterizing

[Pro-pulsion]

That is a good point because I for some reason recall there's a Yamaha engine that is a little bit of a chore to do plugs too, can't remember which one. On 2-strokes I never apply fogging oil though the spark plug holes because it travels through the transfer ports to get there anyway and truth be known until this year I have never done it on 4-strokes either. Like you I've never had an issue with it either but some of the people I have been starting to do work for have mentioned it so I just do it for them. It's also in the owner's manual on most of them to do it which is why I mentioned it =)

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Yes on the older Yamahas you have to remove the airbox top, the air filter and unbolt the coils , on the newer Seadoos you have to unbolt the coils as well , on those Seadoos I did about a month back those rear panels have to be removed to get access to the rear plug but the spark is the only one that is a real PITA, you don't have to completely separate the hull halves but you need a cherry picker to hold the cap up off the deck enough to get in there and remove the plugs, bad design period.

 

[Masonic]

So even though it's 'garaged' I do a trailer hose run once a month, done it 3 times now.

I guess I should blow compressed air thru it with a shopvac on the exhaust?

I usually just nose it up and then run it without a hose for 10 seconds the day after. Don't notice much steam or anything after a few seconds. No funny smells, haha.

I guess I'm a little concerned blowing air thru it would force it back up the headers and into an exhaust valve. I didn't know they were carbon steel and prone to corrosion so easily.

I'll pick up that fogger oil locally this week after I do some digging on it, thanks guy's.

 

[fx1mark]

So even though it's 'garaged' I do a trailer hose run once a month, done it 3 times now.

I guess I should blow compressed air thru it with a shopvac on the exhaust?

I usually just nose it up and then run it without a hose for 10 seconds the day after. Don't notice much steam or anything after a few seconds. No funny smells, haha.

I guess I'm a little concerned blowing air thru it would force it back up the headers and into an exhaust valve. I didn't know they were carbon steel and prone to corrosion so easily.

I'll pick up that fogger oil locally this week after I do some digging on it, thanks guy's.

If you have a water bypass, I would just blow into it and see if you can blow any water out. If it's clear you will know it. You could also blow into the the flush connection but it wouldn't be as effective.

 

[Masonic]

If you have a water bypass, I would just blow into it and see if you can blow any water out. If it's clear you will know it. You could also blow into the the flush connection but it wouldn't be as effective.

I'll look at my manual next time I run it on the hose and look for a bypass, if not I'll use the flush port and run a shopvac at the muffler and see how it does.

Tonight I've decided to just heat the garage with my Tesla, lol. Also ran it for 8 seconds, zero steam, I bet it all gets hot enough to evaporate with my process.

A little concerned about the valve comments, being carbon steel and prone to corrosion. Hadn't even considered it. Very insightful thanks everyone.

 

[kevbo]

On the Texas Gulf coast, corrosion will be what eventually kills your ski. With a little care it will last longer than almost anyone stays with the sport. Make an effort to keep it dry and oiled. Fogging the engine will help a lot on fourstrokes. I have let a twostroke ski sit in the garage for 3 years with nothing more than avgas in the tank. When I got around to riding, it started and ran like it sat for 3 hours. Avgas is the best storage fuel you can get. It will still be fresh when pump gas turns brown and leaves goo in the tank and carbs.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

It may be a myth but I heard from reliable sources that avgas was stabile for ten years , I have used it before on skis I winterized for military people that deployed overseas , when they got back the skis did start up and run fine with no issues whatsoever.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

I'll look at my manual next time I run it on the hose and look for a bypass, if not I'll use the flush port and run a shopvac at the muffler and see how it does.

Tonight I've decided to just heat the garage with my Tesla, lol. Also ran it for 8 seconds, zero steam, I bet it all gets hot enough to evaporate with my process.

A little concerned about the valve comments, being carbon steel and prone to corrosion. Hadn't even considered it. Very insightful thanks everyone.

Unless it says nose up and run the ski in the manual you usually have to get the nose down to get most of the water in the waterbox to blow out. You shouldn't see steam coming out of the exhaust on a cold engine with 10 seconds of run time. It takes a fair bit of heat to cause exhaust steam to occur with a ski. The only time I've seen it was when a hot engine in the water is having cold water pumped through it. A friend of mine had a 61x 701 WaveBlaster with all the mods, bpipe etc, and his bypass sprayer was aimed straight up. When that water came out of there it was not only giving evaporative steam out of there but the water would fall down on you and darn near scald you lol. But yeah, nose down, run the ski and blip the throttle a few times to blow the water out, no need for compressed air. I try not to use compressed air unless I have no choice. It doesn't have the same effect anyway, it can't produce the same volume of airflow through the exhaust as the engine can.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

I crank my skis up at the ramp and blow them out , when I get home I do it again , after they sit overnight I do it again and throw some fogging oil down the carbs, these simple steps will add years to the life of your engine and cost literally nothing to do.

 

[TheBuzzard]

If you use and air hose and blow just about all the water out of the engine and pipe with compressed air, there isn't really anything else that needs attention except for maybe dry un-oiled steel like cylinder walls, crank and maybe the stuff inside the flywheel cover. Squirt some oil in the sparkplug holes or just mix up some really oily gas and use that to drown the motor out on the final start.