Dasa 1100 spark plugs

[Per Björklund]

Hi guys, just got me a dasa 1100 and the guy having it was running br9eya in it. I just cannot get them to last more than an hour without fouling. Happened twice now. Sure I might not be doing wot for 15 minutes but it's not like I am idling for an hour either

Plugs are dripping wet and black so I'm sure it's running a little rich aswell but are the 9.s just too cold?. Psi is pretty standard 185

 

[Harbor]

I throttle blip and ride in circles and rec ride, only time it's wide open is jumping my wake. I don't know anything about bouy set ups.

I ran the extended reach bpr9's I think they were eya's in a 865cc 8 mil and swapped them (used) to a 1200 dasa.. They would appear black but not dripping wet and never fouled, I kept putting the same used plugs in both engines without issues.

If your throttle blipping and riding in circles rec ride or surf I'd switch to the standard plug br8es and recheck... The wet dripping doesn't sound good and might actually be the issue but the 9 is colder than an 8 so swapping might be a good start

 

[badvinny]

I had similar issues a while back, atleast 20 plugs that year, ski seemed to be running decent, 85% I would say. then my CDI crapped out, new CDI and it runs 100% and hasn't fouled a plug since.

 

[Per Björklund]

The cdi box would be a real pita because it got this programmable flame box. Don't know if they are equally prone to fail as the stock cdi?

Yep this is just a rec driver trying to do some tricks so no extended wot sessions mostly blipping as you say

Running 2.5% ester based oil in it but don't think that could be the issue and also a combo of race gas and 98 octane.

I'll have to try the br8es, are those recommended for standard dasa setups?

Thanks for the answers aswell!

 

[Harbor]

I ran those 9's I mentioned and iridium plugs and the br8es.... currently run the br8es

 

[Per Björklund]

How was the irdiums regarding fouling. Any better? I'm a little afraid using those incase the tip would break. Don't know if that has ever happened in a watercraft though

 

[Harbor]

My plugs don't foul so no real difference. My 9's were long reach so the electrodes extended further into cylinder than your 9's. The iridiums are expensive here in USA. If you foul the br8es as well your issue is not the plugs, so it's a good quick test

 

[Harbor]

Found some old plugs.. I have a front cylinder that likes to leak water into cylinder via the compression oring. Also engine vibrated a lot and dumps some fuel out the rear cylinders carbs bomb sight.. also carbs idle circuit regulate fuel different amounts for the same amount of low speed screw adjustment.... plus long 5 mph zones so you know... one pic is iridium, the bpr9, br8 so you can any differences... no problems running with any of these plugs the way they look

 

[Per Björklund]

Thanks for the picture. No I really start to question if it's actually the cdi box. Your plugs to the outmost left looks like....ugly word

My plugs looks far better but they are pretty wet with fuel which might be an issue

Nevertheless I will def start with br8es and cross my fingers hope it works.

Does the stock cdi box work fine with the bigger dasa engines? Have one at home brand new. A new flame cdi would cost 1100 dollars.

Found some old plugs.. I have a front cylinder that likes to leak water into cylinder via the compression oring. Also engine vibrated a lot and dumps some fuel out the rear cylinders carbs bomb sight.. also carbs idle circuit regulate fuel different amounts for the same amount of low speed screw adjustment.... plus long 5 mph zones so you know... one pic is iridium, the bpr9, br8 so you can any differences... no problems running with any of these plugs the way they look

 

[Harbor]

I ran an enhancer on it prior to the MSD TL, both worked great...as long as your stock parts are good it'll run it no problem... I did have an epic HX3 that worked in the 8mil 865 but would not work in the 1200.. lots of kick back and hard crank, basicly was unridable

 

[Per Björklund]

Yeah worst thing that could happen is a lower ignition curve is my guess. Though the current system is a total loss so it would require some rebuild

 

[badvinny]

The cdi box would be a real pita because it got this programmable flame box. Don't know if they are equally prone to fail as the stock cdi?

Yep this is just a rec driver trying to do some tricks so no extended wot sessions mostly blipping as you say

Running 2.5% ester based oil in it but don't think that could be the issue and also a combo of race gas and 98 octane.

I'll have to try the br8es, are those recommended for standard dasa setups?

Thanks for the answers aswell!

Stock CDI. Don't fail much, mine was a ATP programmable CDI also, just the HX 3. Not the Flame. Was also on a Dasa 12mm 1000

 

[Per Björklund]

I must be unlucky. Cdi box went on my superjet last year. But that one really ran like crap all the time almost like it had no compression. Haven't tried the spark plugs yet. Hopefully I can try them soon

 

[Robbie8984]

I ran the same plugs on my dasa 1100. Tim at TNT did a big write up on here about plugs and using the br9eya so I went with what he said.

Ran mint, noticeably better than with the br8es.

If your plugs are wet and black it sounds mega rich. When we’re the carbs last stripped and setup?

 

[stefan]

Found some old plugs.. I have a front cylinder that likes to leak water into cylinder via the compression oring. Also engine vibrated a lot and dumps some fuel out the rear cylinders carbs bomb sight.. also carbs idle circuit regulate fuel different amounts for the same amount of low speed screw adjustment.... plus long 5 mph zones so you know... one pic is iridium, the bpr9, br8 so you can any differences... no problems running with any of these plugs the way they look

hei Harbor how did you finde out about the 0 ring leaking ? I may have simular issue

 

[CARBONX2]

What gap are you running?

 

[Harbor]

hei Harbor how did you finde out about the 0 ring leaking ? I may have simular issue

Hi Stefan, yea the water here is cold so I run restricters in my cooling lines right behind the pissers. The restricters make the water spray out the pissers instead of poor. What i notice is a difference in the spray when the oring starts to leak, it kinda intermitantly spits/pulse more while spraying.. it's kinda subtial. If I pull the restricter out I can no longer see the issue, so the restricters give me early detection. If I pull the spark plug it starts to look cleaner than the other cylinder, piston starts to look cleaner, but this is early detection so they are still dirty not steamed cleaned completely yet. If I didn't run restricters I have no idea how long it would take to finally notice it.. hand lapping the top of the cylinder with a stone and oil and new orings restores normall spray. My sleeves move a lot, cylinder needs decking too, but I service it this way till over haul time, since on last bore...I only get maybe 6 months out of the compression orings... making matters worse it looks like my domes were hand sanded, lots of sanding marks around the grove which tears up the oring.

When I first got the engine it had just been fresdhend up and an oring had come dislodged and was sitting out of the grove on assembly, that was real obvious when I started it and ran on the trailer without restricters, the pisser pulsed and spit bad, the cooling line even shook, real noticeable. Then on a restart it hydrolocked and stripped the bendix and starter...

I have 2 outs off the head, going thru 2.77mm or smaller restricters right behind the pissers.

 

[MX952]

This may help your selection.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MX952]

Looks like the bottom got cut off so here is the rest.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[stefan]

Hi Stefan, yea the water here is cold so I run restricters in my cooling lines right behind the pissers. The restricters make the water spray out the pissers instead of poor. What i notice is a difference in the spray when the oring starts to leak, it kinda intermitantly spits/pulse more while spraying.. it's kinda subtial. If I pull the restricter out I can no longer see the issue, so the restricters give me early detection. If I pull the spark plug it starts to look cleaner than the other cylinder, piston starts to look cleaner, but this is early detection so they are still dirty not steamed cleaned completely yet. If I didn't run restricters I have no idea how long it would take to finally notice it.. hand lapping the top of the cylinder with a stone and oil and new orings restores normall spray. My sleeves move a lot, cylinder needs decking too, but I service it this way till over haul time, since on last bore...I only get maybe 6 months out of the compression orings... making matters worse it looks like my domes were hand sanded, lots of sanding marks around the grove which tears up the oring.

When I first got the engine it had just been fresdhend up and an oring had come dislodged and was sitting out of the grove on assembly, that was real obvious when I started it and ran on the trailer without restricters, the pisser pulsed and spit bad, the cooling line even shook, real noticeable. Then on a restart it hydrolocked and stripped the bendix and starter...

I have 2 outs off the head, going thru 2.77mm or smaller restricters right behind the pissers.

okai run a restricter as well did you take any action too stop the leaking 0 ring ???